cruiser54

Put new vacuum harnesses on it. If you're real ambitious you can do a mod to the valve cover also. Renix Vacuum Harnesses The vacuum harness that attaches to the front of the valve cover and includes the grommet/fitting, and is called the front harness, is Napa part number BK 715-1367 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7151367_0269070623 The vacuum harness that is closest to the air cleaner, EGR etc, and is called the rear harness, is Napa part number BK-715-1366. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7151366_0269070622 The tube from the rear of the valve cover to the intake manifold is part number 715-1365. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_7151365_0066877355 Revised 09-11-2012 Cruiser’s Valve Cover Mod Most early and even later Renix 4.0s could be bothered by excessive oil in the air cleaner box. A fix from my old days as Service Manager at a Jeep dealership follows. Information was provided to me from a buddy at JeepTech during those days. I don’t believe it ever came out in a Technical Service Bulletin. 　 Remove the valve cover and turn it over. Next, remove the fluted tubes that are now facing you by removing three screws on each. Chop 1 inch off each of them. Then, about a half inch up from the area where you just sawed them off, drill a half inch hole in the tubes so the holes will face the rear of the valve cover. Clean and de-burr/sand all rough edges nicely, clean with solvent, and reinstall. Don’t be concerned about the chintzy gaskets that will probably crumble into oblivion when you remove the fluted tubes. They can go back together without gaskets.

Not seen a 91 to 96 block yet that isn't drilled and tapped for the knock sensor.

Renix Jeep C101 Connector Refreshing The C101 connector on 1987 and 1988 Renix Jeeps was a source of electrical resistance when the vehicles were new. So much so that the factory eliminated this connector in the 1989 and 1990 models. The factory recommended cleaning this connector to insure the proper voltage and ground signals between the ECU and the fuel injection sensors. We can only imagine how this connector has become a larger source of voltage loss and increased resistance over a period of almost 25 years. The C101 connector needs to be cleaned at least once in the lifetime of your vehicle. Chances are it’s never been done before. Almost every critical signal between the engine sensors, injectors, ECU, and some to the TCU, travel this path through the C101 connector. The C101 connector is located on the driver’s side firewall above and behind the brake booster. It is held together with a single bolt in it’s center. To get the connectors apart, simply remove the bolt and pull the halves apart. You will find the connector is packed with a black tar like substance which has hardened over time. Take a pocket screwdriver or the like and scrape out all the tar crap you can. Follow up by spraying out both connector halves with brake cleaner and then swabbing out the remainder of the tar. Repeat this procedure until the tar is totally removed. This may require 3 or more repetitions. Wipe out the connectors after spraying with a soft cloth. If you have a small pick or dental tool, tweak the female connectors on the one side so they grab the pins on the opposite side a bit tighter before bolting both halves back together. Revised 07-17-2012

Excellent plan. You're on TOP of it.

No http://snowboard247.blogspot.com/2005/05/1984-01-jeep-cherokee-xj-wiring-info.html.

ANYBODY can diagnose their own leaks. I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill". Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. Revised 9-15-2012

Weld it properly, after drilling a small hole at each end of the crack. Reinstall it and add a flex joint to the systemwhere the exhaust system crosses over from the left to right side of the truck. Make darn sure your motor mounts are good as well as your trans mount.

Just clean it once when you get the Jeep and forget about it after that.

I don't know about history, but get the vIN anyway.

I wouldn't leave this stone unturned for sure. Until this is addressed, all bets are off.

I know that. I only had 2 of them with the 2.5, in 1986. after that, it was all 4.0s. All in all I had 13 MJs as demos through 1992.

Here's how to do it. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/how-fix-flexplate-knocking-125547/

Maybe the red one was a longbed then. It was a 4 cylinder, so must have been an 86. Once the 4.0 came out, I never went back..... My first demo was an 86 white MJ accented in the Renault factory racing colors. Was supposed to be used for a shop truck. I had the accents re-painted.

Is that turning on pavement? Only thing rotating at stops is engine and trans input shaft or torque converter. Do you have a manual or auto trans?

I'm pretty sure the second demo I had at the dealership was a red shortbed. You sure on that? I seem to remember noting that I woild never order another shortbed after having a longbed for my first demo. The longbeds rode so much better.

The distributor just "distributes" the sparkthrough the rotor to the cap to the wires etc. The wires you unplugged go to the sync generator inside the dizzy. It helps the ECU determine where # 1 is firing so the injectors can be fired in the firing order sequence.

i did the same thing on my wife's XJ. Works perfectly.

Really, it was too much influence from the 46% owners of AMC when the XJ/MJ was developed. Renault. That's where Girling clutch cylinders came into play, along with BA-10 trans, Renix, cab lights, closed cooling system etc.

Ask me how I know. I plugged a new CPS into the old plug and chased my tail for awhile. You don't forget crap like that!!

Sounds like the donor had the CPS bypass done but the tech didn't cut off the original connector as outlined in the tSB.

What do you need? The color codes of the wires in the harness?

Should appear pretty much like the photo of the 2.5 actually.

You didn't put in an I instead of a 1 or something like that, did you?

http://www.cherokeeforum.com/vindecoder.php That's^^ the VIN decoder link.

3-wire plug that only uses 2 wires. What year cherokee and what year MJ?