cruiser54

How about this? And, have you checked for spark when this happens? Is it blue? Have you done a ground and connector refreshing? Sensor ground test? Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future. The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner. Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Apply some dielectric grease to the contacts and bolt the coil back on to the ICU. While you’re right there unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier. Apply dielectric grease to the connectors and plug them back in. I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep. Revised 11-29-2011

Have you checked the fuel pressure? Cold?

www.kelleyswip.com has bolt charts. If I had an engine removed at this time, I would get the info for you.

The ECU doesn't control the fan on a Renix. It's a simple switch system.

How hard is it to start? How many seconds does it crank over? I have NEVER found a Renix 4.0 dizzy to be indexed correctly BTW.

So the MT2500 adjustment worked? Or did you end up doing it with a meter?

I'm here Cruise-man. :yes: I sent you a bunch of photos, to your email address, and a follow-up to see if you got them. In your spam folder maybe?

Have you ever tested the sensor ground circuit, cleaned the C101 or refreshed your grounds?

Where is hornbrod?

Yeah, your name is even posted twice. LOL. Welcome to CC.

No fooling. Might as well do it now. OP, do you have reverse lights?

Be a good boy this year and maybe Santa will put one in your stocking........

Sounds like you need to do a fuel pressure test. Couldn't hurt in the meantime to see if the connectors are tight on the fuel pump ballast resistor on the left inner fender.

The switch doesn't ground to the radiator. It has two wires. Cracker, got an IR laser type thermometer?

Why not use that sensor and the existing relay?

Renix sensor is too big to put in the t-stat housing. What if the circulation through the radiator wasn't good and hot coolant wasn't getting to the sensor?

Sensor closes at either 208* or 218*. I forget which one.

Nothing works like a proper manual adjustment with the drums and wheels in place.

Tool!?!?! I used a freaking butter knife lol Your adjusters musta moved easy then!! Bent screwdriver works in a pinch.

Flexplate bolts to the engine and torque converter. I'm confused.

Grab the bottom of the star wheel and pull DOWN with the tool.

Remove the air cleaner box to make it easier also.

can't believe i didnt think of that. :doh: It's not true. Coil packs came out 2000 or later. and even then, you remove the dealie bob that's in the distributor hole in the dizzyless engine and drop your dizzy right in.

It's not a spec. It's 17% of your input voltage. Input voltage is about 5 volts. 17% of 5 =.85. Usually about 4.8 or so volts. That's on the ENGINE side of the TPS. The TRANS side of the TPS is 83% of the input voltage. The Engine side and Trans side of the TPS on a REnix work opposite of each other.

What was your input voltage? Did you ever do a sensor ground test as described in my Renix Tips?