cruiser54

Replaced. Get them all and be done with it. If you want that Jeep to run well and serve you well, check out the REnix tips link in my signature.

TESTING THE EGR VALVE FOR 87-90 4.0 ENGINE Valve Opening Test 1) With engine at normal operating temperature and at idle, rapidly open and close throttle. Open throttle sufficiently to obtain at least 1500 RPM. Movement should be noticed in EGR diaphragm. 2) If diaphragm does not move, probable causes are: faulty vacuum signal to EGR, defective EGR diaphragm or defective backpressure sensor diaphragm (if equipped), or leaks in vacuum lines or connections. Valve Closing Test 1) With engine at normal operating temperature and at idle, manually depress EGR valve diaphragm. RPM should immediately drop, indicating that EGR valve is not leaking and had been properly cutting off exhaust gas flow at idle. 2) If there is no change in RPM and engine is idling properly, exhaust gases are not reaching combustion chamber. Check for plugged passage between EGR valve and intake manifold. 3) If engine idles poorly and RPM is not greatly affected by manually moving diaphragm up, EGR valve is not closing off exhaust gas flow. Check for carbon between pintle, leaking EGR valve gasket or bad EGR valve. ***************

Those are not eGR lines. the eGR valve is located on the driver's side of the intake manifold.

Don't do it. The idle will be screwed up etc. Just put new lines on it. Renix Vacuum Harnesses The vacuum harness that attaches to the front of the valve cover and includes the grommet/fitting, and is called the front harness, is Napa part number BK 715-1367 http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3d715-1367%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26Dn%3d0%26D%3d715-1367%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0 The vacuum harness that is closest to the air cleaner, EGR etc, and is called the rear harness, is Napa part number BK-715-1366. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3d715-1366%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26Dn%3d0%26D%3d715-1366%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0 The tube from the rear of the valve cover to the intake manifold is part number 715-1365. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Result.aspx?Ntt%3d715-1365%26Ntk%3dKeyword%26Nty%3d1%26Dn%3d0%26D%3d715-1365%26Dk%3d1%26Dp%3d3%26N%3d0 Revised 09-11-2012

I wanna see. That's why I have the 795 reverse light bulbs and the 90/100 H4s out front with a supplemental harness. Only people who ever seem interested in my license plate cause me grief.

I don't want anyone seeing my license number too clearly!!!

Cool news. Was the cap that only lasted a year one with aluminum instead of brass terminals? Looks like you need to test the TPS on the engine side (flat connector) next and check the sensor ground circuit while you're at it.

Where did you find the cut wire?

Ever clicked on the link in my signature for renix tips? You've got the C101 connector which carries tons of info betwee the engine management systems different parts. The ground refreshing is just cuz it's such a crappy system to begin with. Snug up your intake manifold bolts. Inspect all your vacuum lines, especially the one from the throttle body to MAP sensor on the firewall. Remove the left taillight and refresh the ground there. That's for the rear lighting and fuel pump.

Here's all you need to get the job done: Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1998 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 07/24/2012

Don't we wish?

Man, you admitting you were into Scouts is like me admitting I was into Nissan Patrols!!!

I believe that the Jeeps were wired for BOTH the 231 and 242. If you had the 231, the harness dead-ended near the adapter and the vacuum switch was used. If you had a 242, the electrical switch was used with a jumper harness.

YOu need to go to a real parts store. Or a clutch rebuilding place. Bearing supply place. somewhere they have real seasoned parts guys and not just keyboard punching putzes.

Mighta figured it out... The 231J, which I have in my 90 MJ only has a vacuum switch on the transfer case at theh rear. There is a speed sensor in the adapter housing between the trans and t-case. There is also a 2 wire harness that goes nowhere on a 231 equipped model. If you add a jumper to it like the factory did, it goes to the electric switch on the t-case for a 242. Black with red, gray with yellow wires. The speed sensor wires are white with brown and black. They run along with 3 other wires for the solenoids. Hope this helps.

Uh-oh. Someone smarter than me about this stuff needs to chime in. You do have your speed sensor plugged in, right?

Renix Ground Refreshing The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, and wasted money replacing unnecessary components. The components grounding at the dipstick tube stud are: Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition control Module, Injectors, ECU main ground which other engine sensors ground through, Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control, and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff. The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following: Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint. Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely. While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, and reattach securely. Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for it’s intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end. First off, remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Reattach securely. Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4” socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely. A suggestion regarding the braided cable: I prefer to add a #4 Gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18” long with a 3/8” lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. Napa has them as part number 781116. A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10” long with 3/8” terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. Napa part number 781115. For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side taillamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal. Reattach securely. If you want to upgrade your grounds and battery cables in general, contact Jon at www.kelleyswip.com. He makes an incredible cable upgrade for a very reasonable price. Revised 12-04-2012

Keep us posted.

PM me your email address and I'll send you a photo.

Did the vacuum hose from the MAP sensor get tugged on, cracked, disconnected?

Staring into space. few glasses of wine and confused.

Airtex sucks. Period.

Cool. Was the original replacement pump an Airtex?

Thanks for reporting back. Whaddya gonna do?

Airtex pump? Hoses inside the tank to the pump get replaced with the pump?