cruiser54

Doesn't even need redrilling. Swaps right over. OP- We're trying to keep you from making a huge mistake!!

What engine is in the Comanche now? It's an 88, right?

Are you sticking with the Renix system or converting to the Chrysler system? Flex plates are different.

What year, engine etc? Not the way to test a CPS on a Renix at least, if that's what it is.

Any other issues besides the slow wipers? That is the ground for the wiper motor, if you got the right one. Snap a photo of the ground you found please and post it up.

Doubtful. Shorted CPS doesn't fry the ECU. Nor does bad O2 sensor wiring. Check the sensor ground circuit with a meter. It's responsible for proper grounding of the IAT, CTS, TPS, and MAP. Spray along the MAP hose, especially near the throttle body, to see if it's leaking. Again, how was it determined the MAP is "fine"?

How old is the radiator?

How was it determined that the MAP is fine?

Great little motor!!

Automatic TPS. Ask for the "submarine upgrade" at the parts store.

Another added advantage is that water will ALWAYS be flowing through the core instead of stagnating in there for over half a year and cloggin it up.

Yea, that's what i heard the other day. I'm just curious why they put them in in the fist place then.... Also; i'm surprised no one noticed its upside down in the pic lol For me, it's because I removed all of mine so long ago that I forgot what they look like!!

Same here.

PC307 from Rock auto. It's a high altitude version. Drill the upper hole anyway.

Factory found out that Comfort did not contribute to fuel economy and in mid 91 eliminated the switch with the TCU then defaulted to the Power mode.

CAD elimination will not cause tire wear. Have the camber checked. In around 1986 or so, the factory had some front axles built incorrectly with too much negative camber. The solution was adjustable aftermarket ball joints.

CRUISER’S VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction. And FWIW, radiator caps are a maintenance item. I've seen many fail in 2 years or less.

Top rear of the intake manifold.3 wire plug with 2 wires in it. Photo can be found by clicking on the link in my signature and scrolling down to CPS testing.

Unplug the cPS. Sure it's a bad head gasket? You sure don't wanna overheat the engine.

Replace it. They were due to be replaced about every 82,000 miles anyway.

The filler cap leaking? Remove the rubber seal. Cut a piece of bicycle inner tube to the same dimensions as the seal. Put the inner tube piece on, then the original seal. Might take a pair of pliers to twist the cap on but it gets easier over time. No more filler cap leaks.

2 different shifting programs. Power is for us. comfort is for Grandma. Factory defaulted the tCU to Power in 1991. Here's how you fix it once and for all. Bypassing the Power/Comfort Switch Remove and unplug the switch. In the harness are 3 wires One has a stripe, one is tan, and the other black. Make a 4" jumper wire with a male spade at each end. Plug one end in the cavity for the tan wire and the other in the cavity for the striped wire and you'll be in permanent Power mode. Stuff the harness back in and reinstall the switch for looks. Adjust your TV cable while you're at it and feel your Jeep wake up. http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/ Make sure the 7.5 amp "trans" fuse is not blown also.

Good idea on the O2 sensor. Have you ever cleaned your throttle body and IAC?

Tach signal comes from the ICU to the dash. Another point to check. Also try unplugginf and plugging your CPS connector. a good ground refreshing and connector refresing may make this problem go away also. Cheap insurance. Try this: Renix Jeep ICU/Coil contact refreshing The contacts between the coil and the ICU on your Renix Jeep can become corroded and loose causing a complete or intermittent no-start condition. I recommend the following procedure as a maintenance precaution to insure this is eliminated as a possible cause now and in the future. The coil is attached to the ICU by two T20 Torx bolts. Remove these two bolts and lift the coil up off the ICU. You will see 2 pins and 2 sets of contacts. Clean both the pins and springy contact pieces with a good electronics cleaner and some fine sandpaper. Squeeze the springy contacts closer together with some needlenose pliers. Bolt the coil back on to the ICU. While you’re right there, unplug the connectors from the ICU and inspect the pins in the harness connector. Make sure the pins are not retracted into the connector. Spray out the connector and the receptacle of the ICU with the same good electronics cleaner you used earlier. I feel this procedure should be performed at least once in the lifetime of a Renix Jeep. Revised 04-04-2013

I've heard it's as good as stock fuel mileage wise.