cruiser54

89 and later is what i'm thinking.

I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Revised 07/23/2012 There also is a critical ground behind the left taillamp. Can affect taillamps AND electric fuel pump. Refresh it.

They should have the sheet for an 89. 88 and earlier not so sure. If not, post up your vIN. I might be able to decode it.

A 7/32 box end wrench should hold the stud. It's an inverted Torx, Smaller than an E8. Funny you should ask. Last night I was fumbling through my bucket of Jeep bolts and I ran across the stud you mention. I took it over to my toolbox and found the socket that fit. I was thinking to myself that someone will probably wanna know the size fo that some day. Funny......

Beats the cost of a headlight switch and associated melted plug/wiring and losing your headlights at night..

http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--9003-Heavy-Duty-Headlight-Upgrade-Wiring-Harness-PRD7540.aspx The harness takes about 30 minutes to install. It's a supplemental harness and plugs right in.

It's usually a stud with a nut, but could be a bolt if someone changed it. I would definitely remove and clean everything up.

gogmorgo and cody 4359, you need to realize that by not adding the supplemental harness that you are missing out on at least 20% of the available brightness of your headlights. Also, understand that the circuit breaker for your underengineered wiring of the stock system is in the headlight switch. Here's what happens even to folks with STOCK lights. Driving along at night, of course, the headlight switch circuit breaker trips and the lights go out. Sometimes in this process, the headlight seitch harness plug melts.You guys have increased the load on this poorly designed circuit and are playing with fire. Well, at least some smoke anyway. The harness is cheap and easy to install. No cutting, crimping or anything.

I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together. There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight. ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else. Revised 07/23/2012

No foolin'? Just from the ground refreshing?

Take care of the basics like ground refreshing, manifold bolts, connector refreshing first. They all need it. If the stalling persists after that, I would test the CPS. Come to think of it, has it stalled randomly since the c101 cleaning?

Thanks for the photos!!

Remove the distributor cap and cut a "window" into the side of the distributor cap at the #1 spark plug wire post . The "window" should be large enough to allow easy visual inspection of the position of the distributor rotor at the #1 spark plug wire post. Reinstall the distributor cap. Install a ¾” wrench or socket onto the vibration damper retaining bolt. Rotate the engine in a clockwise direction until the #1 cylinder is at top dead center. Align the timing mark on the vibration damper with the "0" degree mark on the front cover timing scale. The tip of the distributor rotor should be near the #1 spark plug wire post. Disconnect the distributor electrical connection. Remove the distributor holddown clamp, holddown bolt and distributor. Remove the distributor cap and rotor. Place the distributor housing upside down in a soft jaw vise. Scribe a line 1/2 inch from the end of the distributor locating tab. Cut the distributor locating tab at the scribed line with a saw. Remove any burrs and metal filings from the distributor. Reinstall rotor. If necessary, using a flat blade screwdriver, turn the oil pump gear drive shaft until the slot is slightly past the 11 o'clock position. The oil pump gear drive shaft is accessible through the distributor mounting bore in the engine block. Visually align the modified locating tab area of the distributor housing with the holddown clamp bolt hole. Turn the rotor to the 4 o'clock position. Lower the distributor into the engine block until it seats. The rotor should now be very close to the 5 o'clock position. Reinstall the distributor cap with the cutout "window". Rotate the distributor housing until the trailing edge of the distributor rotor tip is just departing from the #1 spark plug wire post terminal . Reinstall the distributor holddown clamp and bolt.. Reinspect the position of the rotor to the #1 spark plug wire post to insure that it has not moved. Install the new distributor cap, reconnect the distributor electrical connections. Revised 07/03/2012

I would suggest, based on my experience, hella e-code housings, osram bulbs, and the heavy duty harness with relays. check my build thread for the links. http://comancheclub....r/page__st__220 This is a good answer. I've done the same but with Autopal e-codes. Harness is super important.

I'm glad to see the OM617 fits in an earlier MJ. And OP, I like your plans.

Do what ComancheKid45 suggested also.

No plug wires replaced? How are the connections at the fuel pump ballast resistor on the driver's side inner fender? Just for good measure, I would remove the left taillamp and refresh the ground behind it. That's for your fuel pump. Actually, it would be a good idea to do the Ground Rfreshing and Connector Refreshing in the link in my signature.

Good advice^^ here. I'm betting your TPS is taking a dive. Read my write-up on TPS adjustment in the link in my signature. Pay particular attention to the sensor ground test. BTW, have you ever refreshed the grounds or cleaned the C101 connector on your Jeep?

Not really.

My 88 Laredo XJ and 90 Pioneer MJ both have black clusters and speedo cables.

A good Comanche is worth getting shot at. Go get the VIN.

Do you work for the CIA or something? In Special Communications? Foreign language specialist? I never woulda figured that out.

If the float won't float, and that's the only problem, easy fix. If the sending unit is bad, that's a different story. And BTW, it is called a float, not a floater. Those are found in your toilet bowl after an incomplete flush.

What are the symptoms, and what year?

Subtlety is not in my nature as you well know.