cruiser54

Your torque converter is most likely locking and unlocking, not shifting between gears. What postion is your Power/ Comfort switch in? Ever done this? http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/free-quick-fix-41821/ TPS could also be an issue. Do the above stuff first.

My money's on the line from the throttle body to the MAP sensor on the firewall got bunged up.

Kinda hokey, but have someone rev it up and see if you get a throaty sound out the pipe or if it sounds kinda like a vacuum cleaner.

www.kelleyswip.com has a section on bolt sizes.

Good to know. It would be a gear to find out later that something wouldn't work or fit. Glovebox is workable.

Let us know when you find out your doors won't close. LOL.

More than likely the seal. Especially if it's being slung all over the place by the balancer.

The gasket is leaking, not the seal? If so, the front of the pan is gonna have to be loosened. Getting that sealed back up might be a bear.

ISC. That's the name I couldn't remember with too little coffee flowing through my veins this morning.

What about the later doors inner panels hitting the early dash? Is that an issue?

There is a little gear driven Idle Control motor on the throttle body that can fail in the "stuck out" mode holding your linkage open a bit.

Only one way to find out. Test it.

All 6 of them clogged?

Absolutley it will. But if spraying gas in to the throttle body gets it to fire off, there is spark.

CRUISER’S VACUUM TEST FOR EXHAUST RESTRICTION Your vacuum gauge should come with an instruction booklet outlining the procedure. Hook the vacuum gauge up to a source on the intake manifold. Start the engine and note the vacuum reading. Usually 17 to 21 inches of vacuum. Throttle the engine up to 2,000 to 2,500 RPM for 20 seconds or so and the vacuum reading should stabilize to the same reading you got at idle. Let the throttle snap shut. The vacuum reading should shoot up about 5 inches of vacuum higher for a second and then come quickly down to the original reading. If the vacuum reading stays high and comes down slowly with jerky needle movements, you have an exhaust restriction. Clogged catalytic converter?

Key is that putting fuel in the throttle body and it fires up. New fuel pump bad? Low fuel pressure? Need to test it.

Dark green wire. From starter relay.

There is a 7.5 amp "gauges" fuse in the fuseblock per my diagram, that goes to the voltmeter.. Check the voltage there. Improving the instrument panel ground made a noticeable difference in my voltmeter reading. As did adding the extra ground cables.

While you've got your noggin under the dash, look for a cracked weld on the pedal itself where it attaches to the tubular pivot area.

Possibly, but no guarantees. If you suspect vacuum leaks, spray the suspected areas with throttle body cleaner with the engine running. Idle speed will change when you hit a leak.Then you'll know the answer. Could be a bad TPS, someone messed with the screw on the throttle body that they weren't supposed to, bad IAC......

You have no PDC. You have a fusebox and ECU. Neither affects the dharging system. You have a Delco CS-130 alternator with an internal regulator. Very basic.

If you have a cluster from a vehicle with gauges and a sending unit for the temp from a vehicle that doesn't have a gauge, you will not read right.

Tach signal comes from the Ignition Control Unit. Green with tracer wire.

This can be found in this link-Post #18. Also do #1 and add the cables as suggested. http://www.cherokeef...ix-tips-153657/ Improving the Instrument Panel Ground The ground point for the complete instrument cluster on your XJ or MJ is located up under the driver’s side dash. If you lay on your back and look up under there with a flashlight, without wearing a hat, you will see a black wire attached to a shiny piece of metal almost directly above the hood release knob. The screw will have either a ¼” or 5/16” head on it. This ground point is responsible for handling the ground circuit for the following items: Dome lamps, Seatbelt and key warning, trans comfort switch, wiper switch, headlamp switch and delay module, fog lamp switch, cargo lamp switch, all instrument panel grounds and illumination, power windows and door locks, cruise control dump valve, and a few more things. The problem is that where the ground point is located does not have a good contact with the chassis where the ground should be. The solution is simple. Make up a jumper wire with #10 gauge wire about 10” long. On one end, crimp on a ¼” round wire terminal. On the other end, crimp on a 3/8” round wire terminal. Remove the screw from the existing ground wire and attach the small terminal of your jumper so that the original wire and your new jumper share the same attaching point, one over the other. Look above the driver’s side plastic kick panel just forward of the top of the hood release knob. You will see an 8mm stud there. Attach the large terminal end there with a washer and nut over it tightened securely. **Special note for Comanche owners: Make your jumper wire 12” long and attach it on the driver’s side kick panel close to the fusebox on the 8mm stud.** Revised 11-29-2011

Well now you've got some reading to do!!