cruiser54

Post 7 in my Tips.

Woohoo!! Keep us in the loop. Seems those ohms tests for alot of parts are pure bull$#!&.

Why not? Shoulda removed the coolant galley plug and put your Renix CTS in it's place!!

Yeah man. Now we're talkin'.

88 TCU is just fine. It was only 87 that had the morphodite TCU.

YOu mean from the CTS mounted on the engine block driver's side halfway up or so?

4 liters is 244 cubic inches. Plug that into the formula, use 5,000 as the peak RPM, and do the math. But WHY would you use a carburetor on a 4.0L when the EFI is so much better?we don't know if the computer for the 4,0 works, just a back up option if it don't, Redwolf That's an expensive backup. You'll need a new fuel pump, because carburetors only want about 5 to 7 psi, not 40. You'll need a new distributor, because the one in the 4.0L Jeeps is controlled by the ECU. You'll probably need a new coil to go with the new distributor. And you'll need an intake manifold on which to mount the (expensive) new carburetor. I'd say you're looking at between $500 and $750, minimum, all to avoid buying a used or reconditioned ECU for a Renix 4.0L that you can probably find for $25. Doesn't sound like a great plan to me. that bein said eagle, could that be half the reason why my MJ runs like crap, the engine i put in it was a 2.8 out of a 93 sonoma and it was fuel injected, we used the distributor off the sonoma? Redwolf It may be a Chevy 2.8 and various style GM sensors but Jeep had they're own ignition system. You should use the AMC 2.8 distributor and Ignition system with your vehicle. Absolutely.

20mm. Watch out for the intake/exhaust gasket. The one used must be for the intake manifold used.

Motor mount brackets and mounts. Way easier to install.

Actually, it's easier to remove the 3 nuts. I'll have a photo here soon to help. Image Not Found

Anyone else done the ECU swap yet?

Why's that? And are you referring to the whole thread or a single post? I'm sure it's the thread.............

That's the knock sensor.....

4 liters is 244 cubic inches. Plug that into the formula, use 5,000 as the peak RPM, and do the math. But WHY would you use a carburetor on a 4.0L when the EFI is so much better? we don't know if the computer for the 4,0 works, just a back up option if it don't, Redwolf Well, do the math and let us know. Inquiring minds want to know. You asked, so let's see what ya got for an answer.

You don't NEED to change the head to use an HO. His HO head has issues. The write-up below explains in detail what it takes to put an HO engine in place of a Renix the easiest and most efficient way. Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13

All the more reason to do Post 1 in my Tips.

That's the "Uncle Bob" screw. Needs to be set with the engine off using my instructions. Not to be used to set a desired idle speed.

Eagle, don't ask...................

Use the formula provided then.

Who gives a $#!& at this point?

I almost posted that^^ word for word!! LOL. You probably remember, too. When I bought my '88 XJ new, the service manager at the stealership was a racing buddy, and I hung out in the shop fairly often. Back then there were still a lot of 84, 85 and 86 Cherokees on the road, and every time I went to the dealer's shop there would be another one with a connecting rod blown through the side of the block. You DON'T beat on the 2.8L engine. (And what many people consider to be normal driving, unfortunately, is "beating on it" for the 2.8.) I remember very well. They would just grenade. Don't know if you've seen this, but in the parts catalog for that POS 2.8 they list shims for the main bearing caps!!

Sounds like Knucklehead is gonna do a write-up in his spare time!!

5,000 RPM. And you probably will never actually take it that high. If you do, you'll only do it once and after the engine blows up a carburetor will be the least of your worries. I almost posted that^^ word for word!! LOL.

See posts number 2 and 3. see post number 6, i don't know my max rpms, Redwolf Who cares? Redline/Weber has done all the work for you. It works.

The screw on the passenger side, or the driver side of the throttle body?