cruiser54

The one circled on the left or right? :laughin: The one that's threaded!!

The circled one is for the CTS.

Braided steel lines are great. Get them.

Do 1 through 5. Take 2 aspirin, drink 2 IPAs and report back.

Putco part number is 23004HW.

Better than my old way? Sounds harsh but just makes sense: “Let’s play a game. You pretend that you are the only one that knows what year/engine/model, etc that you are asking about. We will all pretend you never asked a question until you provide at least the bare minimum of information about your vehicle”.

Good. Still using the original fuel injection system? If so, click on the link in my signature and do posts1,3,4, and 5 just to be sure that's not causing an issue. Have you tested fuel pressure even though you have a new pump?

AThanks for your post. We’re here to help but you must understand that all Jeeps are not the same. In order for us to give you more accurate advice and help, we must know the following, as applicable, along with detailed information as to the symptoms/problems etc: Year Model Engine Transmission Transfer case

It's all good. Choose whichever you prefer. They will work.

I think it also positioned itself to have the throttle opened for optimal start the next time.

It's the ISC motor. Idle Speed Controller. They all had them.

What reading are you getting from the CPS as tested in post 7?

What's your trans fluid look like? Look at Post 10 in my link below. Actually, you need to look at more than that one, like 1 through 5.....

Test your CPS in post 7 of my link. Of my Tips, which have you performed?

Quick disconnect part numbers So far the Napa part numbers for just orings is: Napa 730-5018 3/8 Viton individual orings $1.56 each Napa 730-5017 5/16 Viton individual orings $1.35 each Napa CRB 212305 fuel line repair kit 5/16? $15.93 each Mopar repair kits: 83502745 fuel line repair kit 5/16 $6.99 Morris 83504447 fuel line/Trans line repair kit 3/8 $8.99 Morris

Fuel pump could be overheating and quitting. Check fuel pressure when it happens and see if the fuel pump ballist resistor is quite hot. Of my Tips, which have you completed?

The 2 best posts of this thread are directly above this one of mine.......

Why do Abbott and Costello come to mind when reading this thread?

This^^^ is excellent info!! Needs to be a sticky.

Are you asking if I have new lines or existing lines on the truck? I have the existing lines on the truck but I do not have any brand new lines bought The fittings at the master are metric bubble flare. You will need to get some bulk lines that fit the master and then cut those brand new lines and put your old SAE fittings on the ends at the brake valve. They will need to be DOUBLE flared at that end.

Normal. C101 was discontinued in 89.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-H4-HEADLIGHT-RELAY-WIRING-HARNESS-2-HEADLAMP-LIGHT-BULB-SOCKET-PLUGS-7X6-/330813121438?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4d05ffa39e http://www.ebay.com/itm/200mm-H6054-H4-EURO-CONVERSION-HEADLIGHTS-KIT-/330594258615?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item4cf8f40eb7

If you don't have any brake lines right now, you need to pick up 2 of them. Bubble flare metric ones that go into the master cylinder. You'll be using those after routing and cutting to length, and using a flaring tool to put SAE ends at the prop valve.

The IAC adjusts the amount of air necessary to maintain the proper idle speed. It gets out of it's parameters when the butterfly stop screw is mis-adjusted.

Yep. 5 cylinder volvos. My mistake.