cruiser54

Think hard about doing #27.

That hose is no longer available. The rubber deally has vacuum on the lower part and the upper hole is just to hold the "deally" in. The reason I say to add the ground to the heat shield is that it's easy. LOL. I don't like seeing any fluctuation when the harness is wiggled. Are you saying that you have a new O2 sensor but haven't put it in?

I bet you busted the hose from the throttle body to MAP in the process.

Fuel disconnects Quick disconnect part numbers So far the Napa part numbers for just orings is: Napa 730-5018 3/8 Viton individual orings $1.56 each Napa 730-5017 5/16 Viton individual orings $1.35 each Napa CRB 212305 fuel line repair kit 5/16? $15.93 each Mopar repair kits: 83502745 fuel line repair kit 5/16 $6.99 Morris 83504447 fuel line/Trans line repair kit 3/8 $8.99 Morris

Should be just fine.

The oil level isn't causing your issue with hiccuping. Need to check tune up parts and do my Tips. As for the oil leak, double check it using Tip 15.

If that line is loose, Vacuum is reduced to the fuel pressure regulator and fuel pressure increases. That can cause a rough idle.

So, the EGR solenoid is/was not closing completely, or the ECU was not giving it the correct signal.

Let's hear it.

Tips 1 through 5 to start off with. Post up the results of Tip 5, after doing everything else FIRST. No shortcuts.

Yup. Tips 1 through 5. And 27 isn't a bad idea either. Plugs, wires, cap and rotor done by you?

Click on the link in my signature and go to Tips 1 through 5 and maybe 27. For TPS adjustment go to Tip 8.

You're doing fine. Keep up the good work.

Oh come on Eeyore. We're having a ton of fun!!!!

You will love it. Harness is the FIRST thing to be done.

Brain fart on my part. Sorry. Have you tried loosening the attaching screws so there's no bend or bind on the TPS itself?

Yup.

Get the PC307 from RockAuto.

Yep, that's correct. Another Renix advantage is that with an HO you'll never experience the joys of dealing with 35 overly-sensitive obsolete sensors that all interact with each other and a poorly engineered leaky vacuum system. Now we're talking. Let the fun begin!!

Need to get tPS issue straightened out first. $60 is sounding like a deal now compared to the aggravation you went through........

The HO used a 58mm TB on a stock engine. Same size valves, cam, displacement etc...........

Nah.

If the cap was off, you're probably right. I don't happen to know where it was originally set. Try setting it like the one you saw.

It's a CS-130 alternator. That said, if you don't upgrade your cables first, or at the same time, you're spinning your wheels.

Interesting on the bleed screw. Did you expose it or was it already exposed? You did Tip 5, correct?