cruiser54

Click on the link in my signature and go to Tip 7 for complete instructions.

Drill it!!!!!!

I'm not sure about that because I let off the accelerator and put in neutral just to be safe. Like I said, I've driven several NP231's for years and never had this problem - I have noticed in the past that the T case usually doesn't like shifting on the fly when under too much power like climbing a hill, so I have always gotten in the habit of shifting not under load. DON'T put it in neutral. For shift on the fly you should be in gear, at "neutral throttle" -- which doesn't mean in neutral, it means balancing the throttle so you're not accelerating and you're also not coasting or compression braking. That keeps everything rotating at the same speed while you shift. YES!

Oh, yes there is a way to test the CPS. Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark. Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad. The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark. Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected. You should get a reading of .5 AC volts. If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer. Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off. A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8” from the stock 5/16”, or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts. Revised 01-26-2013

Do the CAD elimination no matter what. The vacuum to it is only ONE of it's troublesome parts. As for the heat, look under the front bumper on the passenger side for the vacuum storage ball. It holds engine vacuum to operate the vents.

Any questions/concerns, post them up. I'm subscribed.

Do those suggested first. Free and easy.

OK, now I'm confused!1,3,4 & 5? Whatchya' mean mr? :) Click the link to my Tips right below here in this post. They're numbered.

Both, and cleaned connectors while I was in there. Is there anything else i should look at? Injectors maybe? Both? I say you need to do 1,3,4 and 5.

CPS won't cause an erratic idle on a Renix. Sounds like you may have a lazy oxygen sensor switching from rich to lean slower than it should. Of my Tips, which ones have you done?

Absolutely correct.

The link for the harness says it does not fit a 91 Comanche/Cherokee. Do we have to buy the housing to make the harness fit???? Amazon is wrong. The harness fits fine.

The housings come with bulbs........Read more closely.

When installing, be absolutely sure you mount the relays with the plug facing down. Also, for the harness ground terminals, scrape that mounting point to bare metal.

23004 putco.

Clerk is a clerk..... http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G

Actually i think 90/100 is what i have too, Idr tbh. I'm very happy with it, They're stupid bright. I have them aimed low enough i havent been flashed for blinding people even once since i installed them. Its great for up in the mountains, when it gets dark! Easy peasy.....

90/100s here with excellent results. Putco is rated for 100 watts by the way.

Throttle body with new gasket. swap over TPS and IAC. Adjust TPS per my instructions.

There you go again Speaking from experience....LOL.

Here ya go: http://safeshare.tv/w/IEgQqEQmpJ

Absolutely. I swapped an 89 ECU into my wife's 88, and one into my neighbor's 87 and they both commented on the difference in throttle response and power.

Haven't posted this in a while: HO myth buster Renix in 90 made 182 HP. HO in 91 made 190 HP. That's 8 HP difference. HO only made more HP than Renix at higher RPMs and not a bit more torque. HO had 58 mm throttle body versus a 52 mm throttle body on a Renix and also had a better design header. See where I'm going with this? The whole 8HP was not mostly from the head, but from the bigger TB and better exhaust manifold. Put a 60mm TB from www.strokedjeep.com on your present head, eliminate the "crush" in your headpipe with proper re-routing, and go for it. HO stands for Highly Overrated. __________________

More throttle response gain than cleaning a throttle body.........Just sayin'.

Cool. He'll appreciate that as will future customers. Like us guys!!