cruiser54

That's where the diagnostic readout box connects.

Get rid of the vacuum source to the CAD and do the elimination mod. Vacuum leaks are not good.

This^^^ first.

Not exactly true. The bracket on the cabin side of the firewall tends to move when the stock booster is removed. This necessitates drilling through the firewall and the bracket to get the 95 to 96 booster in there.

Yes, you would. Just as you would with the 95 to 96. WJ versus 95 to 96 XJ booster Actually, the WJ booster is in some ways easier than the 95 to 96 XJ. I've done both. XJ, you don't have to mess with the firewall. No big deal anyway. But, you have to move the washer reservoir. And, once the original booster comes out, the bracket inside the cab moves and makes it a bear to install the new booster. WJ you have to bend the firewall lip, but don't move the washer bottle. As an added bonus, the mounting studs of the WJ booster are a bit smaller and it's easier to get in. Another bonus with the WJ is that it has FLEXIBLE lines from the master cylindere that make putting things together MUCH easier.

Put a set of volvo injectors in it. 0-280-155-746.

I prefer 99 to 2004 WJ swap over 95 to 96 XJ having done both.

Is the tCU getting power?

Here's something interesting about eliminating the HCV as posted by djb383 on Cherokee Forum. One thing u may want to consider, is removing/eliminating the heater control valve, if you haven't already. '96 down have the HCV, '97 up the Factory eliminated it. During the warm months, with a HCV, (temp lever/knob never moved off cold) coolant sits and stagnates inside the heater core.....There's no fresh coolant/corrosion protection circulation through the heater core. With the HCV removed/eliminated, coolant/corrosion protection flows through the heater core constantly when the motor is running, regardless of where the temp lever/knob is set. Also, you don't have to remember to turn/slide the heat lever/knob when flushing/re-filling the cooling system because coolant is flowing to/through the heater core when the motor is running and the HCV is absent. Be sure to plug/cap the small vacuum hose when eliminating the HCV.

Good plan.

Need to do 3 ,4 and 5.

I'd be concerned that the fuel rail and the injectors are filled with crap from the disintegrated fuel filter. And, yes. A fuel pressure tester can be rented at most parts stores.

How are you checking for vacuum leaks? What hasn't been done connector cleaning wise?

Yup. Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions It's easy to install a supplemental headlight harness. From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire. It's not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps. The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 30% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don't melt and burn out. Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery. Revised 12/10/2012

Sounds like a fuel pressure issue.

AX15 is a great trans. What about Renix?

It's a Delco cS130. They're common as belly buttons. Bolt right on. You guys realize that doing this without upgrading cables is kinda like peeing in the wind, right?

Gateway? I remember when they were Dick Cepek!!

I haven't done one recently, but I think it should be real straight forward.

No downside at all. Solder and shrink tubing, one wire at a time.

You'll get it done....

Half is just fine.

craigslist where? Got a link?

You thinking history is repeating itself?

NOT Airtex~~ Bosch is very good. Keep in mind your pump may be fine but the hose from it to the fuel gauge module may be damaged by these new fangled fuels and that's the whole issue.