cruiser54

Nah. That's OBD2. :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: Good thing Hornbrod's my buddy!!

Oh, but it's so true. I had 13 Comanches as demos at the dealership. All brand new. Ordered them myself. 4 cylinder with manual trans, 4.0 with manual trans. 4.0 with auto trans. all up through October of 1992. True stuff. Highly Overrated. Everyone who worked in a Jeep dealership loved the antiquated and troublesome Renix models because they kept the doors open a bit longer from all the extra income generated by their service departments. Whoopie doo. 474. Nah. We knew the Renix stuff. Easy peasy. Not for sissies though, those requiring a nanny to point them in the direction of a repair by throwing parts at things based on trouble codes rather than using true diagnostics.

Yes. HO panties are twisting over the fact that they were never what they were touted to be.

Oh, but it's so true. I had 13 Comanches as demos at the dealership. All brand new. Ordered them myself. 4 cylinder with manual trans, 4.0 with manual trans. 4.0 with auto trans. all up through October of 1992. True stuff. Highly Overrated.

HO myth buster Renix in 90 made 182 HP. HO in 91 made 190 HP. That's 8 HP difference. HO only made more HP than Renix at higher RPMs and not a bit more torque. HO had 58 mm throttle body versus a 52 mm throttle body on a Renix and also had a better design header. See where I'm going with this? The whole 8HP was not mostly from the head, but from the bigger TB and better exhaust manifold. Put a 60mm TB from www.strokedjeep.com on your present head, eliminate the "crush" in your headpipe with proper re-routing, and go for it. HO stands for Highly Overrated. __________________

Yowza. But not Budweiser.

I see your point. I'd NEVER drive a Jeep around with Budweiser decals on it.

The BA-10 was represented as a medium duty trans. Barely somehow. And we got it because Renault owned 46% of AMC back then and chose to buy that POS trans from their buddies over at Peugeot.

I agree. Good chance the HO dizzy would be indexed incorrectly for use on a Renix. But, that's not a pick-up in the Renix dizzy like in the Chryco one. The indexing has to do with how far the rotor is from the dizzy terminal when the ECU yells "fire". If the gap is too wide or too early, there can be driveability issues.

That should work I guess. As long as no wires are hooked up. Just won't have sequential firing of the injectors.

Good advice^^. The connector referred to is in my Tip 3.

The distributors work differently and are not interchangeable.

No, they're not possessed. Click on the link in my signature and do Tips 1 through 5. 27 is never a bad idea at some point.

If they use the same gasket, they'll use the same block-off plate.............

Way down south away from me!!

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz4d205LaED2SUxMOGZnY3RjaEE/edit?pli=1

I wonder if the hose from the pump to the flange of the fuel module isn't split/soggy/collapsed/all mush. Good possibility. I'm in Prescott. I haven't looked yet to see where you're at.

Not a bad plan at all.

For the Renix years, 87-90, the O2 sensor has 3 wires, 2 black and 1 orange. The orange wire (largest gauge of the 3) is the 12-14 volt power that comes from the O2 sensor heater relay on the passenger side firewall, and that powers the internal heater in the sensor so that the sensor can work at idle, and almost immediately after start up. Loss of that power will hurt gas mileage even with a good O2 sensor. One of the black wires is a common ground for the heater power and O2 signal to the ECU, so a poor ground will give a voltage feedback from the heater power input, to the ECU causing poor mileage even with a good O2 sensor. The third wire, also black is a voltage feed wire, 5 volts, from the ECU to the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is an O2 concentration sensitive variable resistor. At optimal O2 concentration the 5 volt input feed to the O2 sensor drops to 2.45 volts due to losses across the O2 sensor to ground. That same wire if disconnected from the O2 sensor will read 5 volts constant to ground. At idle that voltage should read 1-4 volts oscillating quickly back and forth roughly once every second. At 2000 rpm it should run between 2 and 3 volts max, and is optimally running between 2.3 and 2.6 volts at 2000 rpm (in park). A digital meter can NOT be used for reading the O2 sensor voltage, but it can be used to test the ground and the 12-14 volts to the heater and the 5 volt feed from the ECU with power on and engine off. You must use an old style analog meter with the needle gauge on the display to see the voltage swing back and forth with the engine runing. If the O2 sensor readings are not right, say they read 4 volts or 1 volt steady, you have a problem. BUT before you blame the O2 sensor make sure it has good wiring, and make sure the proper voltage is feeding it, by turning power on, engine off to read the engine off voltage feeds (12-14 volts on the orange wire, and 5 volts on one of the two black wires), and ensure the ground wire (power off) reads less than 1 ohm to the battery negative post. A leaky exhaust system or leaky fuel injector(s), or bad compression, bad rings or leaky valves, bad plugs, wires, cap, rotor, HV coil, and so on, or combination of these, can also cause a lean or rich condition that gives you high or low O2 sensor readings that are not the O2 sensors fault, so try and verify those other items also before buying parts like an O2 sensor to fix your problem.

Good to know. I don't know if those O2 sensors work the same as the 4.0s. There is a procedure for them.

If they use the same gasket, it will work, eh?

Remove the ground cable from the firewall. the one that goes to the back of the head. Scrape the contact area down to bare metal and reinstall.

But how much fuel pressure?

They all twist easily. What is the symptom that you're trying to cure?

I have both......