cruiser54

I think it's metric. I can go check an old EGR tube later if you want. Busy with family stuff today.

Don't worry about that.

Get a set from Programbo on Cherokee forum.

35% that's pretty impressive. I knew it was a lot having done it on my wife's 88 XJ. It was kind of cool to have it backed up scientifically.

First off, a REnix ECU doesn't need a re-set. And yes, the injectors could have been dirty or gummed up. Go on youtube and find how to clean them.

Correct. I wish I had saved the test results from another post on another forum. A guy used some sort of a meter and determined that with JUST the harness, the light output increased over 35%.

Yeah. From a 4 door. Where did this flurry of misinformation come from? Too much Maui Wowie? Sheesh.

Do the harness for sure. Some replacement halogens will be fine.

None better and a real contributor to our community in many ways.

Easy peasy. Contact "programbo" on Cherokee forum for the Volvo 746 injectors.

I love happy endings!! Congratulations Mike.

Having used Precision's in 3 Renix Jeeps and the 746 Volvo injectors in 1 Renix Jeep, I would never use anything ever again but the 746s.

Not unless you remove the fuel hoses from each end of the fuel rail.....

If you do that and wiggle the injector harness, what happens?

Get the 746s. They work the best.

I'm correcting you because you are wrong... The Renix injectors were 2 piece and prone to leaking at the crimp/seam.

Like this? I'd be looking up ABOVE first, and VERIFYING the source of the oil leak YOURSELF. Everybody, who doesn't own or have to pay for or perform your vehicle repairs, loves to poke their noggin UNDER the Jeep and come out bearing the false bad news that your RMS is leaking. Many mechanics, friends, people on Jeep forums who can’t see your Jeep from where they’re at, and good old Uncle Bob seem to enjoy telling you it’s the rear main seal. Has a catastrophic ring to it, doesn’t it? A simple leak at the back of the valve cover or other source could produce the same symptoms. You don’t need to be a mechanic to figure this out. If you have good eyesight and a dim flashlight, you’re good to go on your own. Don't jump on the RMS/oil pan gasket bandwagon right off the bat. Almost any oil leak on your 4.0 is gonna drip from the RMS area for two simple reasons. First off, the engine sits nose-up and any oil will run back to the RMS area. Secondly, the RMS area is also the lowest point on the engine. Simple physics and the old plumber's adage apply here. "$hit flows downhill". Valve cover gasket, oil pressure sending unit, oil filter adapter seals and distributor gasket, in that order, have to be eliminated as possibilities first. Revised 02-26-2013

Funny story on the dryer. Self diagnostics mode revealed no issues. So, I began testing components with an ohmmeter per the tech sheet. Everything passed so far. Got down to a switch which shuts the power off to the motor if the belt breaks. Tested it and it passed. That left the $325 control board as the last thing and it's not testable. Plugged the dryer in and it worked!! Sound like a REnix? R*C*B*R*C

If you scroll through my technical photos, there is a schematic on the headlight switch.

B on the Engine side of the TPS? Key off?

I've always thought it was real easy.....

Knock sensor connector looks identical to a fuel injector connector. Won't affect squat as far as driveability.

Probably bad TPS. But I would do Tips 1 through 5 in my link below and consider 27.

Good advice here. My Tips are in the link below just so ya know.....

Or, it could be the "dimmer"portion of the headlight switch is bad.