cruiser54

Both. I still don't see how you're adjusting the idle.

Supposed to be around 700. How in the hell are you adjusting it? Which TPS are you using?

Did you do this beforehand? Courtesy of TJWalker: -------------------------------------------------------------------- The Idle Air Control (IAC) is mounted on the back of the throttle body. (front for 87-90) The valve controls the idle speed of the engine by controlling the amount of air flowing through the air control passage. It consists of a stepper motor that moves a pintle shaped plunger in and out of the air control passage. When the valve plunger is retracted, the air control passage flows more air which raises the idle speed. When the valve plunger is extended, the air control passage flows less air which lowers the idle speed. Over time and miles, the IAC can get carboned up which can have an adverse affect on idle quality. Cleaning the IAC may restore proper function and is an easy procedure to perform and good preventive maintenance so it is never a bad idea. This should be part of a normal tune-up procedure and whenever idle/stalling issues are present. CLEANING THE JEEP 4.0 IDLE AIR CONTROL Remove the air filter cover, associated hoses and the rubber boot that goes from the air filter cover to the throttle body. Remove the IAC with a Torx driver (2 bolts; one can be kind of hard to get to). On 91 and later, it may be easier to just remove the whole throttle body. Be sure to use a new throttle body to manifold gasket when reinstalling. “Gently” wiggle out the IAC from the throttle body. Gasket/O-ring on the IAC can be re-used if it is not damaged Clean the IAC with a spray can of throttle body cleaner; inexpensive and available at any place that sells auto parts. Throttle body cleaner is recommended rather than carburetor cleaner as it is less harsh, safe for throttle body coatings and oxygen sensors. Use cleaner, a rag and a toothbrush and or Q-Tips. Be gentle; don’t twist or pull on the pintle that protrudes from the IAC as it is fragile and you could damage it. Thoroughly spray clean and flush where the IAC seats in the throttle body with the same spray cleaner It is also a good idea to clean the entire throttle body bore itself, the butterfly valve inside of the throttle body and it’s edges, and all associated linkage as long as you have things disassembled

Or this? http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/

Link below.

Agreed^^.

173 horsepower in 1987. Want 182 horsepower? Install an 89 to 90 ECU.

Click on the link in my signature and go to post 3. Look at the photo. Remove turn signal bulbs one at a time and see what happens. I'll bet your bulb sockets are corroded.

Trailer wiring plug at the rear that Bubba put together?

What you describe is one circuit hunting for a ground and using another circuit to get it. First place to look is at the back of the stereo. Unplug it completely and see if your problem persists.

Are you depressing the clutch or no? You shouldn't be. Can be shifted at "any legal speed" per the owner's manual.

Personal preference and depending on skill level. Renix works perfectly fine.

Here's what you need to know: Cruiser’s HO into Renix Swap This swap is easier than some will lead you to believe, generally those who have never done it. Those of us who have done it, like myself, will share with you the things that need to be done for a successful swap. Just think of it as swapping in a long block. The HO and Renix have some differences but none that can’t be overcome very easily. Any HO engine from an XJ or ZJ through 1999 can be used. One running change was that the rear of the head was no longer drilled and tapped for the temperature gauge sender beginning in the 96 model year. The sender can be relocated to the threaded hole in the thermostat housing taken from the HO engine. You’ll have to extend the wire to that location. Some brave souls even drill and tap the HO head for the sender. You will be using the intake and exhaust manifolds from your Renix, along with all your sensors and wiring. Since the intake ports of the HO are slightly different, you use the Renix gasket. Exhaust ports are identical. You will need to use your Renix distributor as it is different than the HO because they use different fuel management systems. The flywheel or flexplate from the Renix must be used so your CPS gets the correct signals. The valve cover from the Renix allows you to keep your CCV system intact and requires no modifications. The HO block will have a plug in the coolant galley on the driver’s side of the block, closest to the front, which needs to be removed so your Coolant Temp Sensor can be installed in it’s place just as it is on the Renix. It requires a 5/16” square drive or a modified 3/8” drive that has been ground down to fit. Do this before installing the engine. As for the knock sensor, which is located just above the oil pan on the driver’s side of the engine about mid way, all the blocks I’ve seen are threaded for it. If not, I’ve heard they may be drilled but not tapped. Tap the hole if that’s the case. Revised 03/28/13

YA....what he said.....................................but I could have rebuilt your whole truck( red dog) in the time it would have taken me to type what gogmorgo just did .... :thumbsup: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: WHATS NEXT...................................................................... More of the same...............

I'm anxious to see the results of your testing as you gather momentum. This got my attention: "Apparently it liked its ground improvements as I've NEVER had the crisp throttle response from it that I do now AND the chronic hesitation (accelerator response delay) is nearly gone as well...". That's always been my experience also. Test and adjust your TPS on the Engine side now....Post 8.

TCU doesn't recognize nuttin. It's there or it's not.

Those breakers are as common as belly buttons!! Did you ask at the counter or go to the fuse section?

First, are there trailer wires. Second, are they jury-rigged in there?

Do it then. Do a build thread.

The fix could be as simple as replacing a fuse.......

After seeing your comprehensive post above, I think you're on the right track. I'm beginning to think we all need to be snagging spare coil/ICMs from the junk yard.....

Sounding a bit more like a secondary ignition issue, eh?

I don't. There is a procedure somewhere. I'm leaving home here in 15 minutes so I can't look it up. Supposedly some parts stores can test them?

Yup. First place to look.

Anything else not work? Like turn signals, blower motor etc?