cruiser54

Bosch is best. I have a question for you though. You're in Arizona and you appear to have MY Comanche!! Or it's twin. If that's the only issue you have is starting, it's probably not the fuel pump. A faulty fuel pump would rear it's ugly head not on starting, but when there is a high demand for fuel. See if this helps. Before starting, turn the key to On and then Off after 10 seconds. Do it again. Then see how it starts without touching the gas pedal.

I've matched ported the intakes to the head and realized a difference.

Loosen those 2 BEFORE any others so they don't bind coming out.

Here

Interesting, as that big brown wire off the switch that melts frequently.....powers the blower motor!!!

Nope, my gauge will move left but no more than 0.2 to 0.6 volt, depending on high or low setting. Should have been clearer in my post. Everybody having the major drop in voltmeter reading has it when the blower is turned on?

Now that you've got yours sorted out, maybe I'll swing by and you can give me hand with mine! lol And messing with that screw is certainly not a starting point.....

So, everybody has the gauge drop with the blower motor on then?

More than likely there is resistance in a connector between the alternator and gauge. Have you guys with Renixes done the instrument panel ground upgrade? Certainly worthwhile. Tip 18 in my signature link. From the alternator, voItage travels through the C335 connector, a one wire round connector behind the battery, through the C100 connector under the brake booster, to the instrument panel. Also, be aware that the blower motor grounds under one of those chintzy sheet metal screws on the driver's side inner fender. Clean those up and make sure they're secure.

Normal.

"Started to do tips 3 and 4"?

You've done a lot of good stuff.

It's not that big a player in this. And when they fail, if they ever actually do, they fail indicating a high temp to the ECU. And even when the biggest player in air/fuel ratio fails, the MAP, it will burble and flood, not shut off and come back. This isn't gonna be a quick and easy one. But, there are some steps you can take to make sure what isn't causing the issue. Ever clicked on the link in my signature and reviewed my Tips? #4 could be a player here for sure. It it's an 88, I would do Tips 1 through 5 thoroughly and consider doing #27.

I snag those off every parts Jeep that passes through my hands.

They're great. Personally, I don't trust the trannies. Except of course if you got an early 93 with the AW4.....

So easy to do.

What about the metal shavings? Oil pressure?

I think you can just remove the filter? They should have put that horizontal bolt in from the front.

Yep. They came in to the dealership with a 2 by 4 on the back.

Driver's side of the transmission.

So, what info would you like to share?

Reeaaalllly? That could be good news for me... hmmm.... Can you post a pic for me? I've used the assemblies from both 95 to 96 XJs and one from a WJ with ABS. As stated, just use your prop valve.

Mine did.

Been there and done that numerous times. Just swap the "nipple" from the later engines on to your Renix oil filter adapter housing.

You're fine. The O2 sensor heater has you covered. I've done a few swaps with an HO header, using the downpipe as a location point for the O2 sensor with no issues.