cruiser54

Brake cleaner.

Correct.

I went from a Mac's tank to the Moroso deal on one of the 3 conversions I did.

http://www.cruiser54.com

Something to do with speed sensor IIRC.

Inline radiator hose adapter from Moroso and a standard recovery tank.... I have a thread on it here somewhere. http://comancheclub.com/topic/48597-ditching-the-renix-pressure-bottle-for-a-filler-neck-in-the-upper-hose/

I tried searching for the answer without much luck. Is it possible to test the o2 sensor? For the Renix years, 87-90, the O2 sensor has 3 wires, 2 black and 1 orange. The orange wire (largest gauge of the 3) is the 12-14 volt power that comes from the O2 sensor heater relay on the passenger side firewall, and that powers the internal heater in the sensor so that the sensor can work at idle, and almost immediately after start up. Loss of that power will hurt gas mileage even with a good O2 sensor. One of the black wires is a common ground for the heater power and O2 signal to the ECU, so a poor ground will give a voltage feedback from the heater power input, to the ECU causing poor mileage even with a good O2 sensor. The third wire, also black is a voltage feed wire, 5 volts, from the ECU to the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor is an O2 concentration sensitive variable resistor. At optimal O2 concentration the 5 volt input feed to the O2 sensor drops to 2.45 volts due to losses across the O2 sensor to ground. That same wire if disconnected from the O2 sensor will read 5 volts constant to ground. At idle that voltage should read 1-4 volts oscillating quickly back and forth roughly once every second. At 2000 rpm it should run between 2 and 3 volts max, and is optimally running between 2.3 and 2.6 volts at 2000 rpm (in park). A digital meter can NOT be used for reading the O2 sensor voltage, but it can be used to test the ground and the 12-14 volts to the heater and the 5 volt feed from the ECU with power on and engine off. You must use an old style analog meter with the needle gauge on the display to see the voltage swing back and forth with the engine runing. If the O2 sensor readings are not right, say they read 4 volts or 1 volt steady, you have a problem. BUT before you blame the O2 sensor make sure it has good wiring, and make sure the proper voltage is feeding it, by turning power on, engine off to read the engine off voltage feeds (12-14 volts on the orange wire, and 5 volts on one of the two black wires), and ensure the ground wire (power off) reads less than 1 ohm to the battery negative post. A leaky exhaust system or leaky fuel injector(s), or bad compression, bad rings or leaky valves, bad plugs, wires, cap, rotor, HV coil, and so on, or combination of these, can also cause a lean or rich condition that gives you high or low O2 sensor readings that are not the O2 sensors fault, so try and verify those other items also before buying parts like an O2 sensor to fix your problem.

Rotella and Napa Gold/Wix go together like peas and carrots..........

The only time I've ever had to remove a header panel was to fix the wiring the previous owner crushed when reinstalling the header panel........

Unplug the ignition switch and have a good look at the brown wire's connector inside.

May not see a flash. It's a square wave signal. Try a known good ICU/ coil.

Why is unplugging that harness to remove the front clip such a big deal? How often does a guy do that?

Solder and shrink tube. Don't look back.

I forgot about some of the connector cleaning. Simple and it's promising since the ground path improvements appeared to help the idle. Thank you! I like simple. I see now you have an 88. Do Tip 27........Try 2 first if you want to.

A bad oxygen sensor can cause a low idle also.

You could always eliminate that connector by soldering the wires.

Click on the link below and do Tips 1 through 5. Skip 2 if you have an 89 or 90. TPS instructions are tip 8. Look VERY closely at the TB to MAP line.

It's not the starting I'm concerned about, I know it'll do that. It's having something lubricating it for the first few seconds of running for every single start between October and April... 10w30 isn't horrendous with a block heater, but 15w40 is pushing it. All the more reason to have a quality oil filter with a good anti-drainback valve.

Test the CPS output when this happens again.

Ditch the vacuum stuff to the front axle. Here's how to rid yourself of that crap: http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/

Common connector is c118 voltage feed and G102 ground. C118 is located behind the driver's side kick panel.10 pin connector. G102 is located on the driver's side inner fender. Both the ground and power for the lights go through C118......

More importantly, which oil filters are you using? There's some real junk out there that can cause damage to our beloved 4.0s with the upside down mounting of the filter.

It should work.

NOW you guys know why Tip 2 is so damned important!!!!!!!! Tip 27 is even better to do. Thanks vaustin79 for adding to this thread. Tips 1 through 5 are SUPER important as preventative maintenance on a Renix. You just flat do them BEFORE you experience problems. . Couple hours at the most if you're a slowpoke.

That's interesting. Real life experience duplicated trumps fear and conjecture in my book. Thanks. Too bad we don't have a few folks on this forum with good Renix experience............