cruiser54

Yessir. And the sludge dissolving can be monitored by shining a light into the oil filler hole........

Yep. Forget Seafoam. Use 5 quarts of Rotella T4 and a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil next change.

Well stated, and very true. fix known issues first for nearly free and then carry on if needed.

When?, what brand?,p/n? don't leave me hanging bro! Napa. came with 2 new funky washers that go under the screw heads also.

They came in the box with my new TPS.

The CPS output is something to look at again!!!!

Yes it does. There are radiators out there that take a cap and have the provision for the fan switch. I've purchased them at Napa. I'd have to study a diagram to verify if it grounds or has power running to one side of the switch. You could do that with the key on and probing the harness connector also. A recommendation for when you convert. Eliminate the heater control valve. Use 97 and later heater hoses. Napa 11038 and 11039. Get a coolant recovery bottle from Napa. 730-4514 Radiator cap 703-1698

It should have had an e-fan SWITCH in the radiator regardless of whether it had AC or not.

It's a Renix. The coolant Sender is at the back of the head to work the dash gauge. The coolant temp Sensor is on the driver's side of the block to tell the ECU the engine coolant temp. The fan Switch is located in the lower part of the radiator to tell the fan to come on through a relay at about 208*. When the AC compressor cycles, it signals the fan to come on. The ECU only gets 1 signal and that's from the AC coming on so it can tailor the idle control for the load.

at least i can reach those from below phew Hmmm. Seems like it would be easier to do with the intake and exhaust removed.

Your assumption is wrong for Renix era Jeeps.

And, if one freeze plug is corroded the others are also...........

This is totally confusing..... The fan SWITCH is located just above the lower radiator hose on the radiator. Key On, unplug the switch and jumper the connector on the harness side. Fan should come on. Report back your findings and we'll figure this out.

I know I owned an Eagle Limited wagon. Neat car. Selectable 4WD and a viscous coupling in the transfer case.

Got mine Monday. Haven't had a chance to play with it much yet.

Anyone here besides me that owned one?

In 1981 no less. I loved those cars.

Leave it alone. Is the whole inside of the engine sludgy?

Prices are great. Risk seems high with this guy though.

There's no perfect answer. At least neither of them are made by Wunhunglo.

These should help: http://comancheclub.com/topic/17377-cad-fix-1/ http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/free-d30-cad-bypass-91-a-38629/

Okay, Cruiser54 school me. The guy has a couple of trannys. He has a 2wd that is in good shape, however, it's my understanding that you cannot convert 2wd to 4wd, so that's not an option. He has a 90 that stopped working. the mechanic said it was a bad pump? IDK what that means as a potential donor. He has a 95 too. That one can work if I swap the transfer case too, correct? Is it that easy-peasy? Yes it is. Forget the one with the bad pump. Install the trans and transfer case. Sell your old transfer case on craigslist and your old tranny to a trans shop as a core for $25 to $50.

AW4 output splines 21 spline is about 1.08” diameter or 27mm 23 spline is about 1.22” diameter or 31mm

I think www.bringatrailer.com might be a better option. I'm seriously considering putting my white 90 MJ on there.

I think that midyear stuff is crapola.