omega_rugal

if geared right, a 4.0L J20 would be a decent around town truck. that`s what i want it for...

So a 4.0 HO will not cut it?

it has 8 lugs AFAIK, that narrows it down... if i had them why not...

i can`t confirm the year model, not even the owner knows for sure, also doesn`t have a grill to compare it to, but IT does have a J20 logo on the drivers side... so it`s post 1974? no title, VIN is no legible (maybe if i search for other parts where it may be?)... it`s old and i`m no expert in telling them apart just by looking at them... anyway that engine either factory or not, is going to be discarded, i do have a HO i can use but has the less-than-impressive 42RE auto, i`m looking for an old 4 speed, or why not, a 3 speed manual, i don`t plan to race the truck i`ll see if i can get another look at it today....

is the EGR working? O2 sensor ok? i would look there...

mmm no... if it was an auto converted to manual, the TPS is the same...

i just found a 1970 J20 sitting on a garage collecting dust, the owner says the engine is busted (inline 6 4.2) someone tried to fix it but couldn`t and just left a bunch of parts in the box, so it may not be a complete anymore, the tranny is gone but it was an auto, very little rust considering it`s age, the only thing i gonna need to buy/make is the grill, i really like this truck but unless i can make it run again there`s no point in getting it, it`s very cheap btw the current owner says it`s been sitting there for like 15 years and wants to get rid of it, it`s a good truck that doesn`t deserve to end in the crusher... like i said the engine is an old 4.2, probably will not run again, so the idea is to put a modern 4.0 (sorry my ZJ, i`m looking at you) with a new tranny... but what are my options? i mean for an auto AW4 is the way to go but i prefer manuals all the way, i have read somewhere that the old manual jeep trannys "bolt in" to the 4.0, if so what are my options?

i think that is normal...

now that we are on the subject, do anyone have some sort of manual for the older carburated 4 bangers? been searching the internet but only the manual for the 4.0 pops up...

or a dakota bellhousing plus an AX15

burp the system, vene with everything brand new air in the system is like if you hand no cooling system at all

it was closed cooling from factory with no ac, the radiator doesn´t have a switch nor a place to screw one, some PO installed an efan but wired it through a relay actuated by the key on signal, said fan fell off it´s mounting last year so i remove it, so far the mechanical fan is doing well, except for the noise is unbeareable...

it doesn´t, there´s is a spot where it shoudl be but is not even drilled...

so there`s a second sensor that controls the efan... mine doesn`t have it so i couldn`t tell... it HAD and efan but it was wired directly to the ignition as my MJ came from factory with no AC...

then what is it? the fan work with ac on... unless the temp sensor or the A/D circuitry that translates the analogue signal temp to the ECU is defective, i can`t think of anythignelse right now...

while i was looking at problem i got an idea, i had some epoxy left in the tool box, cleaned the plug the best i could i pluged it with that epoxy... gues what? it worked... for now... refilled the coolant and burped the system, no over heating so far at least i can reach those from below phew

ok let me re explain the ECU activates the solenoid by grounding the coil, i assume through a NPN transistor, the current to its base can come from 2 different pins form the ECU, one that the ECU enables when the AC is on, the other when the engine temp goes too high 2 diferent way to activate a relay

the sensor is the small one, also coolant pours out when you remove it, the other is the knock sensor and only screws in there, nothing comes out the hole the "AC on" and the "high temp" conditions to operate the efan come from 2 diferent places in the ecu, one can work while the other don`t like in your case...

lack of fluid...

kinda sucks having the entire thing rebuilt and get this... rough idle may be the MAP, TPS or Idle stepper motor who loves to get stuck either open or closed all the time...

the larger can hold more "vacuum action" than the small one, that`s all...

the mounts are in bad shape already so i gonna have to replace them anyway.... although if i remove the cylinder head, i could take the chance to clean it, change the head gasket, do the valve cover mod and install new tubes...

i can drive my MJ for more than a week before something breaks, after at last fixing the starting issue now i have a water leak, this time comes from the freeze plug in the back of the cylinder head, i can tocuh the plug and confirm there´s a hole but even if i can pry the plug out, the space is so limited that i don´t know how to push the new one in... is it possible to fix it without having to remove the head?

maybe the sensor was DOA?

reverse is made up several gears shared with the forward gears, obviusly your problem is about the hidraulics, get someone capable of fixing that... not your current mechanic, you need to rebuild your tranny if the gears, clutches or bands or whatever is bad, your tranny doesn`t seem to have those problems... the AW4 manual says reverse is engaged by applying OD clutch D clutch 1st / R brake OD one way clutch