omega_rugal

you dropped a lot of money on it and now you don`t want it?

did you buy the HEI ready for the 4.0 or did you mod it? what model of GM distribuitor can be hacked to fit the 4.0? after cleaning the reducer and some tweaks here and there finally got it to start on LPG but still lacks power under load, it really needs those advance degrees to burn the lpg better...

see if the stupid idle stepper motor is not stuck...

fixed the image, this is how is in my MJ... https://postimg.org/image/989x10cb3/

you pop them off to clean the bed? who knows, that`s what i used them for..

drop box sucks...

the waterpump runs the right way, the fan/clutch rotate the other way it should... btw is the link working? anyway, the waterpump must turn the opposite to the crankshaft, and so must the fan, in my comanche the fan turns the same way as the crankshaft... like i said, some monkey did that job...

today i was doing some work on the open cooling conversion for the Comanche and while at it i noticed this https://postimg.org/image/989x10cb3/ some PO was messing with the engine, isn`t the fan supposed to turn in the same direction as the waterpump? after a few tries i couldn`t get that belt to fit the right way, at least not without reversing the alternator and/or waterpump, since it has no AC or idler pulley... the way i see it, i could unbolt the fan/cltuch assembly and turn the fan backwards to correct the airflow and get a new belt with the right lenght... what you think? oh my poor baby, some monkey was working on her...

AMC`s products are full of them.. the hinge of the driver`s side on mine is falling apart, thanks for the tip

it`s like 3d movies, comes and goes in intervals..

i`m converting it to open cooling too

i`ll keep that in mind, swaping impelers may do except for the closed cooling system

really? i thought i was made like that because there wasn`t enough room and Jeep didn`t want to modify the engine bay one more time... as a side question, does the pump from 2.5 fit the 4.0? i`m about to check the current pump and if must be replaced, i may take the chance and get a 2.5 water pump...

it is...

wait, the MAP sensor must be connected to the throttle body vacuum? i have it directly to the manifold...

i`m seriously thinking about ditching that finger-chopper, is noisy, looks ugly and sucks power, gotta go... any options? `my plan is to put a smaller, plastic one on the water pump, the original sitting off center annoy me somehow, with a couple of efans for extra cooling, any ideas about the mechanical one? a model i could fit on the water pump? perhaps one from a 2.5l? oh and i also plan to move the radiator forward to make more room...

dual spark plugs?

after reading how the Renix system works, i think is a little too complex for what it does, if the ECU wants to alter the timing there are simpler ways to do so...

how "far" does the clutch engage/disengage? 50% of pedal travel? more? if the clutch is loose you need to have a lot of fluid at all times to work properly...

what he says... also unecessary wear...

did you buy the HEI or made it yourself? i mean i have seen people talk about these here and there, what brand / model can fit a 4.0 renix? you mean this? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/attachment.php?s=c0c3197ad232fc5f383d42a790365b01&attachmentid=132119&stc=1&d=1112058692 because i`m pretty sure there`s an old I6 chevy pickup with a blown gasket i can rip apart, and a spare renix distribuitor with the right pinion, as i have read, is the only modification need (GM dis + AMC pinion)

i wonder how you manage to do the swap and not know what the MAP sensor is...

clanking sounds from the tranny, only in R or D? mmm i would look inside the torque converter, something is wrong there...

i though about the CPS mod but is way too much trouble, the HEI distributor sounds like the only way to go...

how did you fix the timing advance problem?