omega_rugal

but the open cooling opens at some point, the closed doesn`t right?

soo dissappointed the XJ looked great from outside, no a single dent, just old, washed out paint, fixable engine was a renix+aw4, running good but in desperate need of an oil change, not too bad but the interior, OMFG what the hell happend there? a complete mess: eaten up seats, windows don`t work, a door doesn.t even open, a window was kept open with a stick.. A STICK goddamn it, and dirty as @#$% i don`t even want to know what was in there, like someone barfed, pissed and took a dump there all at once... the mercury sable sucks but at least i won`t get AIDS while driving it... how can anyone drive that...

because OEM expansion tanks break easily? or that an engine like the 4.0 doens`t need it? why break what is already fixed...?

i was under the impression that open cooling radiators have slighty larger compartiments to hold more coolant than closed ones which makes sense since the closed system has to build up pressure in order to raise the boiling point, which may take longer and/or be less efficient if the radiator had larger compartiments (more room, less pressure) in closed systems these compartiments are slim

how is that?

bingo! the cable to the cps sensor was fried so i replaced the damaged part and now is up and running again... btw someone just offered me a 1990 XJ, 4.0 renix (damn) , AW4 part time 4x4, all black in exchange for my $#!&ty 1997 mercury sable wagon... should i?

$150? that`s a little high for an old, beaten up engine, for a freshl rebuilt one is well worth it... stil trying lo find a hackable GM dizzy... just checked the cps sensor the cables are so cooked that became rock solid... oh i can see where this is going...

fine i`ll fix the signature and yes it`s a renix, running on lpg and cranks for eternity without starting, i unplugged the dizzy lead and confirmed no spark is being sent... i wish i had one right now, but is on the to-do list... i`m having enough with this mother@#$%ing renix...

you think? like i said it happend before but solved itself after wiggling cable after cable until it ran, the ECU gets power as it drives the fuel pump (lpg evalve in this case) properly... is it getting a crank signal? is the sensor in the dizzy sending the right signal? damn too many variables... sounds like an afternoon of trial an error...

after a week of working flawlessly my MJ just took a dump on me today, crank the engine, nothing, check the LPG lines, crank, nothing, test the ignition, no spark coming out the distribuitor... this happened to me before once but the problem solved by itself so i got no idea what happened, any ideas where to look first?

mine died within 5 minutes of running dry... don`t do it...

fotos we!!!

where do you live? if you local laws allows, remove all emissions related stuff and put new vacuum hoses, they tend to desintegrate over time...

how about the ignition system? new cables, spark plugs?

a valve is not closing properly...

i know, the mount was modded so it fit i have seen vids of YJs, they do use the flange no work on the MJ this week... last time i couldn`t upload any pics, o`ll try again later

you can ditch that thing...

several reasons the actual rad is in pretty bad shape and it`s closed cooling, the base was bent maybe from colission so i took the chance to pick a better, open cooling radiator, fix the mounts and mod it to receive the new rad... as for the offset fan... i don`t know, i can`t stand it, besides the new rad is more square than rectangular... and my efan broke some tiem ago...

it`s done :thumbsup: i also made the radiator mounts lower sinc ethe new one is taller...

now that i got a nice open cooling radiator ready to swap in, the next step would be to move the mechanical fan to the center, to the water pump, as for that swap, what parts do i need to get? the whole water pump? or just the fanclutch? because the offset fan is attached to the pulley with NUTS and the waterpump has BOLTS on it... the way i see it is to replace the bolts with studs and get a new fanclutch from a 4.0 wrangler, those have the fan on the center right?

yes that one... knock sensor? i don`t need that with LPG anyway... that`s a relief...

short bed, for serius loads i woudl get a full size pick up instead...

i got some wires in parallel witht it going inside the cabin, hooked to a multimeter, if i`m doing things right, then i`m getting a lean lecture (3v-4v), except on idle, in idle goes between 1.5-2 which is "rich", that would explain why to start the engine i need to open the throttle a little bit, as for lean on acceleration... * small backfire *.. yes it`s lean... maybe last time i tune it it was cold, now that is getting warmer need some extra tweaking... anyway proof of concept works, i`m thinking about puting a "lean" "rich" light signal on the dash... bad post

after taking a good read to the Renix EFI manual i noticed that the O2 sensor can be used to get a good idea of how good the combustion is going... do you think i can just unplug the sensor and hook up my own reading device or should i tap the lines in paralell so the ECU doesn`t go mad trying to find the sensor? because tuning the damn reducer by hand is driving me nuts...

is the coolant temp sensor, the one on the bottom of the block, may be it was aged and brittle already....