Ωhm

Now what I don’t know is C260 serves as a dual function switch. One is electrically for the purpose of disengaging the auto trans torque converter and the other is a mechanical vacuum dump for the cruise control (if equipped). So the question is, does the clutch pedal need the cruise/trans switch if you’re a Manual Trans with Cruise Control? Myself, IDK. Anyone with this setup (MT wCC)?

88Electrical Manual Connector#1: C115. Pg19_2.5L/Pg20_4.0L. Connector#2: C260. Same pages as above. I think I see a clutch pedal.

Looks like they should work. Using jumper wires, if necessary, can you get any 12vdc incandescent bulb to work properly? Try this: When the LEDs are ON (dimly), measure voltage across the bulb, one end to the other. Should show ≈12vdc (battery voltage).

I agree, any automotive 12vdc5W incandescent bulb could serve as a testlight for this purpose. If you can get these to work, you can get the LEDs to work. Voltmeters don't always show voltage drops within the circuits. Testlights will tax the circuit.

Can you get the bulbs/LEDs to work using just the build-in switches? Disconnect center wires (BLK/WHT) on both switches. Do bulbs/LEDs light ON-OFF-ON-OFF as intended? May have to flip LEDs for polarity.

Sounds like the diode has shorted allowing current to flow in both directions. Normally diodes pop open but they can also fail shorted together.

Fuel Pump Relay (FPR) is controlled by the ECU only. If you turn KEY ON the ECU will see IGN signal and the fuel pump will run for 2-3 seconds then shut OFF. This will/should prime the fuel rail. Now if you turn KEY ON and CRANK the starter the ECU will see both the IGN and CRANK signals and leave the FPR ON until ENGINE is RUNNING (ECU see RUNNING RPM's) and then just stays ON.

Nice score. Welcome to the CC forum.

FYI C156_H ├———————————————┤C203_11

By the location that looks like G102 (IP/CAB GND). G102 is tied in with Splice_G (IP Harness). But G103 (ENG COMP) is also tied in with Splice_G, so it's not that you lost your GND it’s just that you’re not using the vehicles metal to its maximum. Many GND wires tie into Splice_G both inside the IP/CAB and outside under the hood.

Yea, I'm looking at your photo thinking that little black dot is a single wire in the center of the cable. Oh well.

Midway down your steering column, you should find C156. This connects the Turn Signal SW with the IP Harness. Of those two wires at C156_H on the IP harness side, one goes to the LF Turn Signal Bulb up front, and the other wire goes to the LH Turn Signal Bulb in the Cluster. This is just a quick check before your need to remove the Cluster.

Remove Fuel Pump Relay. Jumper Pin_1 (Hot at all times) with Pin_4. FP should RUN.

Broken antenna cable, maybe.

No.

Yr?? Eng?? Trans??

C156_H should have 2 wires on one terminal. Make sure you got a good crimp there.

Check for fuel in the vacuum line between the Fuel Pump Regulator (FPR) and Intake Manifold.

Some hard to find, yet very tasty, sausages.

The small gauge wires (SW to GND), when connected, would Bulb Check when the KEY is SW to the CRANK position. The ORG wire (C268_I3) would require a 12vdc feed (C268_B3) from a HOT circuit and the KEY needs to be in the RUN position.

Bulb checking is a function performed during CRANK. It requires switching to ground (small gauge wires). This will light the lights (BRAKE_COOLANT) letting you know the bulbs are GOOD. You may lose this function unless you can come up with some Relay logic (switch to GND) for these circuits during the CRANK cycle. I’m not sure what to say about the ORG wire except it’s a HOT in RUN circuit. Wiring here is most confusing. Seem to affect certain Clocks/certain Radios circuits. Not much help here.