jimoshel

With that bed, what difference does it make?

Take 2 fender washers and weld 1 on each side of the bracket. Or remove a good bracket from a donor and weld it on. Just make sure you got everything 'lined up' before welding.

Standard or auto? Get a XJ donor and it's do able. I don't think MJ ever had a standard column shift. Use the 'search' there's several write ups on converting the auto.

No, it wouldn't. MHO. I've probably repaired over a dozen of them, by myself. It's not easy but the instructions makes it more intimidating than it is.

If your not going to use it again, then go ahead. Otherwise suggest you use a wire brush and get as much rust and crap off the fitting as possible. Then spray with rust penetrating solution. Let set overnight, or longer if necessary.

Don, The way you come up with references for stuff, I've just got to ask. Do you have a photographic memory or just a neat filing system? Jim, << Can't even find his own butt sometimes.

Already 'suggested' it to him. He didn't say yes but he didn't say no either. We'll see. Sheesh, what a rock crawlin, Jap crap crusher I could make outta it.

Didn't know he had a matched set. http://pueblo.craigslist.org/bar/2003842226.html

If the truck is indeed, as you described $2000 is a fair price. Just make sure you inspect for rust. Go to 'SEARCH' type in 'RUST' and read up on what your looking for.

If your on a budget get the original Carter. They should be plentiful in any junkyard.Look for a 85 S10. Otherwise get a 350Holly.

I think if you had welded the 2X4 joists instead of nailing you'd of had a stronger frame.But that's one mans opinion. Nice lookin shed.

Rusty frame repair is no place to learn welding. That said check the DIY section. There are several postings there on frame repair. The price seems a little high for what your getting but as prices varies from one part of the country to another, it may be fair for NE. If you could locate a local CC member maybe he could offer more help.

I think there should also be a 'High Mileage' thread. Either seperate or share with this one. Original MJ'S, No swapped engines or transmissions. My offering Low mileage 1989 123K. High mileage. 1988 293K

I think we should start a 'Post Vigilante committee' Every time a MJ shows up in a JY we put on greasy coveralls, face masks, with a Jeep logo and go find the moron that sold it. Then we surgically nueter their *ss, tar an feather them, and then hang them from a telephone pole, or overpass. Same treatment for uncooperative JY owners. Just a thought.

The fact that the belt is glazing on the back side indicates a bad idler pulley. Why not squirt a little WD40 or penetrating oil on the them and see?

Check the VIN on the title against the tag on the dash. Can't emphasize enough, CHECK FOR RUST. Welcome to the madness.

The transmission is out and laying on the ground. It is a AW4 with a build date of April 1998. Draw your own conclusion.

This afternoon I crawled underneath and checked the two trannys. They are identical, exterior wise. So what gives? They have the P,R,N,4-3,2,1 shift pattern. They look just like a '89 AW4 I have on the ground.

One of these days I'm gonna learn to quit ASSuming. Tnx Corry

I have a 1998 Cherokee sport, 4.0l, Aw4, 4wd. Wrecked but runs great. I have a 1994 Grand Cherokee,4.0l, AW4, 4WD, show room condition body and interior, blown engine. Just got thru talking to the previous PO and found out the tranny was slipping when he sold it. I think that's how the motor got wiped out. I want to swap the drivetrain from the '98 into the '94. I think I will have to swap ECU'S and trans controller. I hope not but possibly the wiring also. Would appreciate any and all thoughts, opinions, ideas and hints and kinks any one has on this. Jim :hmm:

Get a gauge and check the fuel pump pressure. I have one mounted on the dash so I can monitor it at all times. Otherwise just mark it off to a Jeep moment.

Was any other P/U beside MJ made with the vent on the cab side between the door and rear of cab? Drove by a used car lot the other day and truck caught my eye. Was doing 60 in rush hour traffic so no pic and not a real good inspection. The tail gate was smooth, no logo and the grill was a single horizontal bar, poorly fitted and obviously not original.That vent just looked MJ and wondering if I should make the trip and go back for a better look.

I have a '89 XJ doing exactly the same thing yours is. Except for the radiator, I've done everything you have, with the same results. After boiling over the other day I've come to the conclusion it's leaking coolant. A very slow, undetectable leak but a leak none the less. I had the head off and replaced the gasket. A close inspection didn't reveal any cracks but I may have missed one. A crack in the valve chamber would be undetectable without removing the valve. A leakdown test wouldn't reveal it if the valve was seated. I'm seriously thinking about just driving it until it wears out. Then replace the engine. Just check the coolant every morn, or whenever I drive it and top it off and go.

I patted it on the tail gate and said "Good girl" Works on the GF. Wait a minute. Shouldn't that be in the 'What did you do to your MJ today' thread? Maybe I should double post. :brows:

The fan blade and shroud have to come out together. Can't get one without the other. Not enough room. Look at the bracket holding the outer sheath of the release cable. There is a cutout in it. The cable can be pried out thru that opening. If it's loose I have done it with my bare fingers. If it's tight use a screw driver. Pry on the outer covering. Not the cable itself. On the end of the cable is a roll pin. There is a slot in the hood release. move the cable 90 degrees and line it up with the slot. Move the pin to one side. It will come out.