jimoshel

No. That would be caused by a bad connection, usually a corroded ground at the affected socket.

Where are the parts from? Mexico?, Japan?, India?, Canada?, America? I'll pay a couple bucks more for 'made In America' but not double.

There's always that possibility but not likely. The fitting is brass, a soft metal. More than likely it will just settle to the bottom. Take a cotton swab and cover it good with grease. Now reach thru the hole and capture as much shavings with it as you can. Also keep the drill bit covered with grease and drill slow. The grease will hold the shavings and they will work up the bit instead of down the hole.

If they don't want to be reasonable about it, just tell them to talk to your lawyer. The last thing any insurance Co wants is a court case.

Upper left hand is turn signal. Lower right hand is hazard.

What motor? As far as I know the 2,5 and the 4.0 had no bar. The 2.8 may have had one on each side on 4WD models. They're to take some of the strain off the bell housing mount,

Yes. It's a bolt in.

In 1962 I paid my $100 bucks and became a Life Member In the NRA. Best $100 bucks I ever spent. In 1985 Colorado signed into law the "Make my Day" Law, Immediately followed by the Clint Eastwood movie of the same name. This year Colo enacted the 'Castle Law" enabling a home owner or occupant to use any force necessary , including deadly, on a intruder without fear of charges or lawsuit. Sidenote. In 1951 or '52 my aunt living in Kansas City, MO shot a guy trying to crawl thru the window at 2AM into her house. She was alone with 2 kids. A blast from a 12 gauge stopped him. The top half fell into the living room and his legs were sticking out into the porch. The cop who investigated helped her pull him completely into the room. Either Mo law or KC law stated the intruder had to be completely inside the residence in order to legally shoot him. Nice cop. She was a farm girl and grew up with guns.

Whatz a "Suburu"?

Same stuff you use in your engine is good enough. Your going to have to remove the motor from the housing. 4 screws. Sometimes there are holes in the housing you can drip oil in. If not, hold the motor with the shaft up. drip oil on the shaft, let it run down into the bearing. On the rear, drill a small hole in the housing. Sometimes you can take a piece of wire and run one end through a hole in the housing and close to the bearing. Drip oil on the wire and let it run in.

They're both accessible from under the hood.It's the black thing in the firewall next to right hand side fender, just below the cowling.

As you found out, the trouble with going straight to bat neg is you're by-passing the P-N safety switch in the tranny. Clean the ground connections and live with it. The 'F' terminal is a by-pass for the fuel pump ballast resistor. Puts 12 volts straight to the fuel pump. Don't need it.

Not having anything better to do I just walked thru the yard and checked. 16 4.0'S, from 1987 to 1998. All 16 have studs on the very ends of the manifolds. The rest are bolts. Didn't bother with the 2.5'S. Dunno, shud be worth something, info wise.

I need the power cord for the OEM block heater. Or just the plug. I can make my own cord. 1989 4.0.

How about making it easier to upload pics? :yes:

Sometimes when fan motors get old the oil in the bearings dry out and they stick. When they warm up and, or get jarred, they start. Get a couple drops of oil on the bearings. Also plan on a motor swap in the near future.

I'm older than any Jeep ever built, and sometimes I sure feel it. First cigar :chillin: :ack:

I've found it easier to start a nut on a stud than getting a bolt started in a hole, especially if you're trying to hold something in place while you do it. And altho there are two locating pins the stud help align-hold the manifold and gasket.

Bite the bullet and get out the drill. Soak it a couple days with penetrating oil first. And it was a stud.

Be sure and eat a quart of ice cream after finishing that cigar. Happy BD. :wavey:

I believe the '89 MJ has 3 fuseble links. Two green and one brown. Two between the relay and alternator, one each for field and armature, and one between the relay and main wiring harness.

It gets it's signal from the speed sensor, an electro-mechanical device at the end of the speedometer cable behind the instrument cluster. The turns of the speedo cable is converted to electrical pulses which are fed direct to the cruise control module.

Used gas tanks can't be shipped. DOT regs. Either find a used one at the JY or bite the bullet and buy a new one. They're common on EBay. I recently adapted a '74 chevy P/U 23 gal tank to a '89 MJ. It's used as a farm truck so didn't have to worry about looks.

1.Soak it with a good rust penetrating solvent for a couple days first. Then try the EZ out. 2.Heat the head, 10-15 seconds. You just want the head to expand, not transfer the heat to the broken stem. Then try the EZ out. 3. Heat the stem, not the head. This will break the rust. 4. Drill it out. If your careful you won't touch the threads and the broken stem can be worked out. 5. Drill it out to the next larger size and install a thread repair kit.

If the system was empty to start with I fill at the radiator hose, after removing the temp sender and parking it with the rear higher than the front. Then I top it off at the catch tank.