jimoshel

Had the identical same problem as your having. Replaced the tank cap and problem solved. I put a radiator hose clamp on mine (around the cap) and drove it for 3 weeks until I could get a new cap.

Isn't the 4.10 D44 while the 4.11 is D30-35? I stand corrected on the stamping. I knew that.

I built several racks on casters to hold motors on. It keeps them up off the ground, floor and they can be moved.

Be sure and put a nut back on. I have had drums come flying off when doing that.

On your Haynes manual, the wiring diagram on page 12-23 is identical to the FSM. This is the far left, titled 1988. Hopefully this will help. The cut blue wire sounds like something a PO added. Not OEM. A Pic would help.

There will be no markings. You will have to count the teeth on the gears. Number of teeth on ring gear. 43=3.31 46=3.54 41=3.73 37=4.11

Any time a seller ups the price on me I walk away from it, no matter how bad I wanted it. As to what it's worth, your going to have to decide that. We can't see the truck. You can. Carefully inspect it, especially for rust. Pull covers, mats. He won't let you pull, walk away. Try to figure out what you can sell parts for that you won't be using. What will be the value of the the parts to you that you will be using. If there's no rust and the axles are good it's worth $300. But I'd still walk away from it just because he raised the price. There's a 50/50 chance he'll not sell it to anybody and will be dropping the price back to the original figure. Jim

Wal Mart has a very good universal hitch. Waggy refers to the FSJ. The sixth number in the VIN is the series. 1=S 2=Base 3=Pioneer/Islander 4=Sahara 5=Laredo/Grand 6=Eliminator 7=Limited

Just a hint. It's kind of hard to dribble gas out of a container, bottle, whatever and maintain a steady stream, plus the chance of a backfire, setting the thing on fire. I use a bottle with a sprayer on it. The kind where you squeeze and get a fine spray. Maintains a more even flow of fuel, won't spill. To repeat the guys above, check your fuel pump and filter.

Would there be any thing to be gained, performance wise, to justify swapping a 2000 Grand Cherokee head with a 1988MJ? 4.0L.

Serious. Sat morn I'm picking up a couple scrap 4's. If they're rebuildable I'm keeping them. If one, or both is scrap and the fuel rail is good you can have it for shipping costs.

Sending unit going bad. Just maybe oil pump going bad. Get a mechanical gauge and find out for sure what your pressure is.

$299.95, plus .05c for shipping and handling.

I do not have a '88 MJ with the 4.0. I do have a '87 and a '89. They are identical. Just gotta assume (*) that the '88 would be the same also. I have a '87, '88, and a '89 XJ with the 4.0. The exhaust is identical on all 5 vehicles. That's from the engine to the rear of the muffler. The difference in length is in the tail pipe. Did not check for sensors on the cat. Just checked the physical layout for swap fit. Jim

I used Fel-Pro on the last overhaul I did. Was quite satisfied with them. McChord is also good. Avoid Charley China parts.

Swapping is OK if you know your swapping in a good part. Swap in a bad part and you just may wipe out a good part in the circuit.Now your going nuts trying to figure out why a previously working circuit isn't working any longer. I prefer to test the individual components and and find out for sure what is defective before replacing parts. Remove the wire lead from the OP sending unit. With the motor shut off take an resistance reading from the terminal to ground. It should be 1 ohm, give or take a couple..With the motor running it should read 88 ohms for a OP of 80psi. Because the gauge moves when you turn the key on and off kinda indicates it's OK. A better check would be to get a 100 ohm potentiometer. Hook it in series with ground and the wire you removed from the OP sending unit. The OP gauge needle should move in direct proportion to the Pot being turned. Same procedure for testing the temp circuit.

Sounds interesting. I encourage you to do it just to see how it turns out, Make sure it's clean and rust free before you take it in tho. Just one rust spot the size of a pin head will do the whole thing in.

Me to. :popcorn:

Would taking a FSJ leaf pack and removing a leaf, or two, be feasible? :dunno:

MY GAWD!!! I remembered all of them, except the Pete an Pete one. Never heard of it. Please pass the geritol, and push my walker over so I can reach it.

Rob, You asked for it, your gonna get it. As many opinions, all different, as there are CC members. If the motor is running OK now, with no obvious leaks or noises I would leave it alone. Put it in as is. One suggestion is going to be 'change the RMS because it's easy to get to now.' I've seen new seals go bad thousands of miles before a old one quit. Personally I would change it. I would change the head gasket because they do seem to go bad and it will give you a chance to fully inspect the engine. Get the valves done while the heads off. Drop the pan and pull the rod caps. If they're good leave the mains alone. If they show wear then pull the main caps and inspect. Suggestion. Make a list of every replaceable part in a motor. Then flip a coin. One flip for each part. If it comes down heads, replace the part. If it's tails, leave it alone. Back to first sentence. IF THE MOTOR IS RUNNING OK NOW, WITH NO OBVIOUS LEAKS OR NOISES I WOULD LEAVE IT ALONE.PUT IT IN 'AS IS,' One mans opinion. Good luck, Jim :smart: :cheers: :dunno:

There is a nut that goes on before the knob. Adjust the knob the way you want it and then tighten the nut up to it.

I have a original Jeep straight AM radio from a '87 MJ. Don't know if it works or not. Dash wiring is messed up so never messed with it. If your interested I'll check it out. $30 if it works, $20 it doesn't. shipping included. Jim

Good Luck Guy. :cheers:

WOW!