jimoshel

You really can't tell if a bulb is good or bad just by looking. Test it. Either use a ohm meter or locate a easily accessible socket and plug each bulb into it, after insuring that the socket is good. Switch the bulb with one known to be good.

EBay

Start by finding where the PO cut the wires. Did he actually cut the wires or did he pull the plug? Start at the headlight socket and run the wires back. Where do they go? Are they cut or disconnected. After finding the end of the wires from the main harness see if there is voltage when operating the light switch. It's a formidal task but not impossible. Just use basic trouble shooting, circuit skills and a test light. There should be a 10 pin rectangular connector behind the left hand headlight. Find it first. Haynes has a reasonably good wiring diagram for the '89.

You are correct about the '86 and the 228 Selec-Trac case, but I don't think the 242 was offered in the MJ in any year. .Didn't read all the paragraph. In the 1989 FSM it describes the 242. That was where I stopped reading and made my assumption. In the next sentence it states the 242 was only used in model 70's. ASSUME= To make a @$$ out of U and ME.. The censor won't let that thru but you know what I mean. :thwak:

I may be wrong here but I'm confidant I will promptly be corrected if I am. 1986 MJ Select Trac had the 228 transfer case. 1987 and '88 did not offer Select Trac. The 1989 models with Select Trac used the 242 TC. I don't know but I would assume ( and we all know that defination ) that the 90,91 and 92 models also used the 242 TC with Select Trac.

Yes, some of them did.

Good show. Thanks for the effort and sharing. :wavey:

Yes. The basic engines are the same. The difference is in the electronics.

Issue 1. The fact the wire gets hot tells you a bad connection. High resistance. Replace the light socket, I have cleaned them and got good results. Inspect it and see what you have. Issue 2. Your going to have to start at the brake switch and run it out, using a test light, to find where your losing the power. I would suspect the turn signal sw in the steering coluum would be a prime suspect.

I have several clusters. Not sure what years as I didn't mark them when removed. I think '86 to '89 are the same. I also think they have a date code stamped on them. Any one know for sure? I'll go out tomorrow when it's light and look them over.

Did you check the ad for side panels in the Tech section? Fourth listing down .

Went to party one night. Took the horse so I wouldn't have to drive. On the way home got stopped by the fuzz. I got cited for giving alcohol to a minor, the horse was under 18, and the horse got cited for drunken driving. Sometimes you just can't win.

Replacing the regulators can be a hassle. I've got a '97 ZJ I'm parting out. Would let someone have the doors, complete for $25 each. I've bought complete headers at the P&P for $50. That's grill, all lights and wiring. Different prices, different parts of the country.

Normally there are 2 power wires on radios. A red one that is powered by the ign sw and comes direct from the fuse panel. It is hot only when the ign sw is on. That is the main power for the radio. The blue wire is hot all the time. It is for the memory functions of the radio.

I would take a wild guess and say winch control. The parallel connector hooks to the relay center and the square one is tied in to the MJ wiring. Don't think the metal thing is original. Looks like something added when the original switch got busted or lost.

Clean it. It will make finding the plugs easier as well as finding where the the leaks are. :wrench:

You really should be ranting to them. Not to us.

Auto fuel.......$3 per gal Aviation Fuel..$4 per gal Bale of hay....$6 1988 MJ. 2.5, 5speed, 23 MPG=13 cents a mile 1944 Stearman, 300HP P&W, 8 gal per hour, 12 miles om 1 gal =30 cents per mile 1998 Appaloosa, mare, 4 legged, 20 miles per day, 1 bale of hay, 5 days or 100 miles=6 cents per mile. No emissions standards. Image Not Found Not sure if I proved anything here or not, except maybe I've got to much time on my hands.

I have one from a '97 ZJ. Will it work?

PM sent

Speaking from experience, a extra leaf can be added to a MJ without removing the pack. The pack must be removed to add a leaf to a XJ pack. The bolt in the center holding the pack together fits into a hole on the axle spring mount, helps keep the axle/spring in place. Adding a leaf to a MJ,SUA, just involves loosening the U bolts and sliding it in place. On the XJ SOA, you must remove the pack, remove the bolt, add the leaf, then reassemble the pack. This applies only when adding the leaf to the bottom of the spring pack. If adding it between the main leaf and rest of the pack then the pack must be removed and disassembled,

It wouldn't prevent the spark from getting to the plugs. It will prevent the spark from being initiated in the first place,

So how much work is it digging yourself out of the ditch? Snowbank?

Sounds like you either got a 'El Cheapo' rebuilt from SEA developing country, used cheap, or used Fluid, or was careless during the replacement. Brake fluid attracts moisture but shouldn't have been enough to freeze up in the couple months since you replaced it. To answer your question, I've seen hydraulic systems working in -60 degree weather without malfunctioning.

I've found that 400lbs, 6 bales of hay, is the ideal equalizer.