jimoshel

I've done 145 in a Jaguar, 160 on a Harley Davidson, Bonneville salt flats and 335 in a F51 at the Reno air races. I wasn't racing, a fella let me take his up for a spin. These were racing vehicles. A MJ is not a racing vehicle. I wouldn't recommend going over 75 in one. To answer your question I've had a 2.5 5spd top out at 90 and a 4.0 with 5pd at 95. It was still winding up but I backed off.

Just keep the MJ tank and pump. Put a cap over the return fitting.

If your old engine was a 4.0 you shouldn't have any problems. If it was a 4cylinder or a TBI the fuel pressure will be different. Not a unsurmountable problem.

They just haven't been drove. I drive the MJ and the GF drives the XJ. Yep. 2.8, D35 and all.

So why doesn't some one local, just get a ladder and climb up and get it? In 1949 or '50, not sure when, the fire department was called out to rescue a cat from a tree. When the fireman gave the cat to it's owner it immediately jumped out of her arms and ran back up the same tree. The FD left. At the city council meeting that week they passed a ordinance stating briefly no city property or employees will be used to rescue animals, animal control officers excepted.

Try blocking the radiator. Be careful and don't let it overheat.

I didn't say 'Kitty' I used the P word. dern filters. HEHE

To quote that William Shakespeare fella " A big ruckus over a little kitty" :doh:

Want to go mud boggin but don't have a artificial mud hole? Just live at the end of a 2 mile unimproved dirt road. Unfortunately half of the goo fell off when I hit the last bump so I didn't get a pic of all of it.

Fuel delivery problems with a 94 ZJ. Have determined the in tank fuel pump is bad. Auto Zone wants $310 for the fuel pump module. I think that is assinine. Looking at the module it looks like there is a regular fuel pump cleverly concealed in there. Has anybody ever disassembled one of these and replaced the fuel pump? Before I spend $310 I will install an in line fuel pump.

Si senor. es correcto. The 16 gal had 2 straps, as does the 18.5.

The 2 sets I got from the P&P were $20 each. Don't know what the regular JY charge, although shouldn't be much more. The P&P'S are generally standard price, regardless of rarity or demand. The JY depends. If the management is aware of the demand then the price goes up.

Mona Lisa was a cross dresser. :shake:

Even swap. One set of MJ tail lights for one MJ. :brows: :thwak:

Yep

I'm looking at a 42 here. I do believe you can put a fitting in the pan and use it. Look at the drain plug in the oil pan. Do the same thing.

Can't do that. That's solid metal above the hole and there's a test line behind it that he would drill into. The cap above the broken hole is a clutch test fitting so can't tap into it. I checked all the caps and they are all for something, mostly test ports, so they can't be used. All you need is a way to return the fluid back into the trans. Find an old case, stripped. find a place where you can place a fitting. Biggy here is making sure you don't interfere with any internal parts. Maybe even direct into the pan. Maybe use the dipstick hole, tube.

Looks good. Let's hope it does some good.

I just looked at a 42RE case. It looks like you can drill about a 1/2 inch with out going thru.

1.Clean everything up real good. Put the fitting in place. Clamp it so it doesn't move. JB Weld the shet out of it. 2.Smooth the surface up a little, taking the jagged hump off. Drill and tap the hole making sure you don't break thru into the tranny. 3.Replace the tranny.

Pull your plugs. Read them. Almost every shop manual has pics of what they should look like. With todays high output ignitions that is not as accurate method as it was in earlier days but sometimes it will still give you a clue. Just see if one is different from the others in any way. Color, soot, carbon etc. That will at least narrow it down to one cylinder.

Sometimes you can push a spade terminal in far enough to make contact. If that's not possible your going to have to trace the wire out to where you can reach it and cut it. Or remove the fuse panel and get to the wire.Get a wiring diagram and trace the wires out to where you can reach them

I would suspect a wire or connection came apart. If they're OK then Check for output from the ign control module. Pin 1, Diagnostic Connector 1.

Did you see the tach work after you installed it? or before you removed it from the donor?

It will read 40 when you first start the motor but then should drop to 31psi. Is that what yours is doing or does it go below 31? With the engine warm and running the pressure should be 30-31psi. 40 psi is what you should get with the vacuum line dis connected from the regulator. Might hook a vacuum gauge in the line going to the regulator. See what it does when you step on the gas.