jimoshel

Best bet is to remove one of the other bolts and measure it. Seems there is no definate pattern as to what is metric and what is SAE. I've found both on the same engine. Sometimes there is no bolt on the two ends of the manifold. Just the holes. Sometimes there is a guide pin. Again, no rhythm or reason. Just Jeep. Shouldn't have to remove the TB. Just leave it on the manifold. As for the Yellow, it's just the way cameras work.

It'll work fine. Don't forget. You'll also have to swap the sending units for water temp and oil pressure.

Should have mentioned, the Grand Cherokee seems to have a better unit. Bigger case. I've used both with good results.

Neighbor came over this afternoon. Wanted to know if I knew any thing about Jeeps. Think he was joking. Any how, seems he he bought a 1989 XJ for his daughter 3 weeks back. They went out trail riding yesterday afternoon and stuck it in a ditch. Into 4WD, nothing. Sat there a couple hours and finally a guy came by in his Ford and pulled them out. So wanting to stay on good terms with my neighbors , I agreed to take a look at it. Got in started it, and shifted to 4wd high.Shifter was looser than a loose goose. No problem. Apparently the linkage came loose. Crawled under to take a look. Unbelievable. No transfer case. No live front axle. Just a straight ole BA10 with a rear driveshaft. Found out he bought it from the shadiest used car dealer in town. He's so bad the local news paper won't even carry his ads. Looked at the BOS. Very plainly stated 1889 4WD Cherokee, 30 day guarantee on parts and labor. He's taking it back Monday. Interesting to see what happens. From the looks of it, it was factory 4WD equipted but apparently some where along the line somebody removed the TC and front axle. The neighbor's a retired lawyer. We'll see.

Welcome to the club. It's plug an play if you have the same series Laredo. The later years have different plugs and speedo hook up..

The whole idea of being 16 is it's a good excuse for screwing up. I think it's called learning by doing, or something. Over 20? Now that's another story.

1. Go to the JY and get a amplifier. They're mounted underneath the back seat, right hand side. I used one from a '98 ZJ. Works great. I've used the adapter kits on several installations. They work. Most of the time the stock MJ-XJ connector has been cut off. I just cut the adapter plug off the conversion kit and hard wire it in. Or you can use a quick connect terminal. If you still have the original harness, unmolested, it's P&P deal. 2. That'll do it.

It's hard to lose a friend. Even harder when it's before there time.

Normally you would think the bigger the bolt the tighter you can torque it. Not necessarily true.You must be referring to the bottom two, with nuts. There's the stress on the parts being bolted together to consider. I'm not sure why they did it like that. Seems to me the would have put 3 smaller bolts there, but what ever. Thats how they did it and the book says torque to 30.

Nothing beats a couple prong horn steaks on the grill with a tub of iced beer standing by, served by a cutie in a well filled bikini. :cheers:

Before you can take steps to prevent damage to the starter you have to know whats damaging it. Take it apart and see whats damaged, Inspect the brushes, armature, and sliding gear. Is water, mud getting inside. Don't over look the solenoid.

Got to be the amplifier. Check and make sure it's getting voltage, and it's grounded. Pull the input connectors and see if you;re getting a signal there. If the results from above tests are good and you're not getting a signal out, then the amp's dead. Don't forget to check the amp for fuses.

Are you getting spark? Being Oregon the first thing I would suspect is moisture, condensation in distributer as first suspect. The spark is going to take the route of least resistance and that will be moisture covered wires, insulators, etc. Try a shot of ether in the intake. When I was living in North Bend I had a '62 Austin Healy 3000. It was really sensitive to moisture. The only way I could count on it starting in the early morn was by putting a light bulb, 60 watt, under the hood and leaving it on all night.

30 ft lbs

I always liked Franco-American spaghetti, with or without the meatballs. Would just open the can, drop a gob of butter in and set it in a pan of water and put it on a hot plate, or stove when I had one. Ate it out of the can. No dishes to do. Also liked Progresso stew.

Wouldn't take my vote. 1,3 and 4.

When the CPS goes out , you don't have a spark. I suspect fuel flow problems. However you are correct in blaming the CPS for a lot of no start problems. I have a '89MJ that constantly, about every 2-300 miles won't start. I just unplug and replug the CPS and it fires right up. I've cleaned the connectors and every thing I can think of and it still does it. Been doing it for 3 years now.

I've got a half dozen 231 TC just laying out. Shipping would probably be a killer. However if you need any parts, let me know. I can't help but believe you can find something closer to home.:wrench:

Looks kind of neat. Figure out a way to roll that diamond plate into tubes, Axle tubes and drive shafts and I'll take a set. Now got me wondering how a set of diamond plate springs would work.

Rob,That truck is just to dern nice, and rare, to be in the rust belt. It needs a home where it will be loved, respected, guarded, restored and in a rust free atmosphere. You gonna bring it out or want me to come get it? The Dreamer. :rotf:

Think about being out of work and living with a griping, complaining b*@$£. You got it made kiddoo. :D Stick with it. You'll be OK.

He's in reverse? :D

You're blowing a little issue out of proportion. Quit worrying about it so much. Keep an eye on it. If it starts leaking so bad it spots the ground or you pull the plug and the fluid level is down, then replace it. You don't know how to replace a seal? Jeeps are great learning machines. Learn.

PIC?