jimoshel

Use a razor blade and carefully remove the old decals. Clean the surface. You can see the outline on the old paint. To be safe take pics and measurements before removing the old graphics. If you have a steady hand you can freehand repaint them back on. If not, then use masking tape.

First thing to do is remove the shifter and look for broken, worn parts.

Pete. Sure sorry I didn't make it. We could've had one heck of a party. Jim

You are not going to beat the Jeep engine or tranny for dependability as long as they are properly maintained.

Vinegar. Jack Daniels. Rub the vinegar on the affected area. Take the JD internally until you no longer feel anything. :D

Check the T-Stat first. Don't overlook the possibility of a bad temp sender or gauge.

A protective cover to keep the switches safe from dirt, moisture and kids.

Welcome. I'm going to have to get me one of these 'Rusty trucks' someday. Just see what the fuss is all about. RUB-RUB.

Darn it Don. Don't get me started. The first bike I ever owned in my life was a '47 Triumph 650. I was 15 and my mom hated me having it. The second bike I got was a '52 Ariel square 4. I've owned, and rode, Harleys, Ariels, Triumph, Moto Guzzi, Indian, BMW, Honda, Yamaha. Suzuki, Ducatti and I'm sure a couple I've forgotten. In 1961 I rented a nice, shiny new Moto-Guzzi from the shop in San Sebastion, Spain. It had 33 kilometers on it. The only reason the guy rented it to me was because he knew I would take care of it. I set off to do something I wanted to do most of my life. Ride a motorcycle around the Mediterranean Sea, staying as close as possible to the coast and not cutting across country on penensulas and such. Left Elizondo, Spain the 5th of July. Got back the 4th of Aug. I was on 30 day leave. That Moto never missed a stroke. Loved it. It was kind a beat up tho. What were we talking about before this little discourse? Jim

Half trying to be funny. Half serious. Owning or wanting a Jeep is more a cult thing. Not a 'gonna make money of it because it's a collectors item'. Name anything about a Jeep you want to, and there is a machine out there someplace that can do it better, cheaper, easier. It's much like owning a Harley-Davidson to a Rice burner. There are Jap bikes, as well as others, that can out run, outlast and more dependable than a Hog. But the Hogs have one thing no other bike in the world has. CLASS! The quote 'It's a Jeep thing' pretty well sums it up. A suggestion. Get it. Fix it up. Get it running. Drive it. If you don't like it, no biggy. At least you gave it a shot. If you DO like it, Welcome to the madness. Jim :wavey:

:agree:

I had 3 of those when I was living in NM. One running and two for parts. Still kicking my butt for selling them but when you move and don't have room to take everything, something has to go. Corry. That looks like it's running now or at least is restoreable. Yours?

It's sitting right in front of the battery. There is a 8 gauge wire coming off the battery pos about 10 inches long going direct to it. Very top terminal.

Two thoughts. 1.Anybody that doesn't know for sure whether they should get a Jeep or not, shouldn't. 2.Anybody that doesn't know for sure whether they should get a Comanche or not, shouldn't.

You sure know how to get thru to this ol boy.

Make friends with a fly boy. You'd be amazed at some of the stuff they carry aboard them aluminum tubes as personal baggage.

Unfortunately just because something is new is no guarantee it's good. Don't know how much stuff I've took out the box that didn't work. If the starter is mounted run a hot lead direct to the starter terminal from the bat pos. If the starter now works, then the problem is the relay or connection. If the starter is off, hook a cable from the bat neg to the starter frame. Hook another wire from the bat pos to the starter terminal. It should run. It will jerk so have a good hold on it or have it clamped down. That ceramic thing is a resistor in the fuel pump circuit. Has nothing to do with the starter problem.

Apparently that is 'The assumed position' The key was off, no battery.

So where are you at? There are hundreds of places with rust free parts, shipping being the biggest drawback.

Even with the dent that's a nicer bumper than many on the road now. Shame to cut it up.A bumper mounted to sheet metal is useless. Not worth the bother to put it on. Weren't there any instructions included?

Doesn't the new bumper have mounts already on it? If it doesn't and your supposed to furnish your own then; 1, If your current bumper is stock and in good shape then don't cut it up. There are others who can use it. It's not that hard to fabricate a set of mounts. 2. If it is bent all to H*ll or rusted out, then cut the mother.

Looks good to me. But then I steal any parts I need so what would I know about buying?

:agree: At 18 insurance wise, you're going to get screwed every which way but loose.

Just thinking out loud here so don't jump me to hard if you hear a grinding noise and smell smoke. I don't think you would want the fog and driving lights tied in together. Overload the switch and or relay. If you want driving lights, having the fog lights on would help. If you need fog lights, having driving lights on would blind you, the glare bouncing back from the fog. I think driving lights should have their own circuit independent of fog lights. Tying them into the headlight circuit? I can think of pros and cons of doing it that way. There is no mention of driving lights in the 'Bible' the FSM up to '89. maybe the '90's might. My recently acquired OEM sport bar, as the bible refers to them, not 'roll bar' has tabs for driving lights. Don't know what year it's from so maybe it's a '90's. Surely some body out there knows, besides 'The Shadow'. :dunno: :hmm:

They do that at the factory. Gives the engine a cleaner look. :D