jimoshel

It's a good idea but most people don't do it because 1. It's a PITB and 2. They just don't think about it. Brake fluid absorbs moisture. Eventually it gets enough to rust the system, and in a cold climate can freeze, no brakes. Remove the MC cap and rub your finger across the bottom of the cylinder. Gunk! I don't change the fluid just to be changing it, but whenever I work on the brakes for some reason i change the fluid and if it's really bad flush the system. Do it the same way you would bleed the brakes. Open the bleeder valve and pump the pedal until clear fluid comes out, or if you have a pressure tank, use it. Make sure you don't let the MC run dry.

Should be able to find one in the junk yard. The 2.5 and 4.0 are identical. If you can't find one , let me know I've got a couple. I'm not sure but I believe the V8's would also fit as the compressors are generally the same and it will just bolt onto the mounting adapter.

There were no broken pieces in the pan. Just the usual shiny bushing residue found in any high mileage unit. I'll check the things you mentioned tho. Weaker unit sounds like a good enough reason not to use it. I'll check on the bell housing mounts. They look the same but I didn't measure anything to make sure. The fluid and filter looked like original factory stuff. Don't think it's been touched since it left the factory. 200K. Engine runs like it was a new one.

Looks like some of our corn fields after a hail storm.

1993 ZJ, 5.2 46RH, 4WD. No reverse. All fwrd gears good. I have a good 42RH from a '96 XJ 4.0. Any reason why I can't swap it into the '93 ZJ? They used the 42RH on both 4.0 and 5.2 but only used the 46RH on the V8. I think. The only difference I can find between them is the 1st and 2nd gear ratios. Before I do that, I'm going to remove the valve body and make sure the reverse valve isn't sticking or the rear band can be adjusted. I'm gettin to old for this crap, but it keeps me busy.

Just take a walk out into any cow-corn field and look for a ear where the tassel is more brown than yellow and pick it. Remove the shucks and the (unless you're from New Joisee) worm at the top end. Now take a bite, No salt, No butter, just natures own natural flavor. Every bit as soft and tasty as any sissy-fied sweet stuff. Ever notice how country boys are usually bigger, stronger, better looking and smarter than city boys? Goes for country girls too. :D :chillin: :popcorn:

Not worth a reply except: :hmm: :shake: :nuts: :rotfl2: :agree:

Seems most people raise the front of the vehicle when pulling the trans. I prefer to raise the rear. This way when you remove the cross member and the trans-engine drops down, on a jack, they will be more level. Makes it easier to remove and install. Take two studs, or bolts with their heads cut off and screw one in on each side into the engine block. Helps in keeping the tranny lined up during removal, installation. The major difference between working on a motorcycle and a car is the size of, and quantity of parts. You'll do OK. Jim

Rob; You're invited to my next Bar-B-Q and the 'Kiss The Chef' aprons' all yours. When I was a kid in Iowa '46-'47 times were tough and we ate field corn more than once. A little salt, a little butter, it was OK.

lmao copied and pasted straight from wikipedia So,,some people have trouble with search, me included sometimes.

I made a replacement tail gate using two pieces of 1" pipe for the top and bottom and two pieces of 1" tubing for the sides. 1/16" steel plate for the filler. No Jeep logo but it could be painted on.

You're not gonna get your feet wet standing on the shore watching the waves roll in. Translation. You're not gonna learn until you do it. The biggy is having a stable jack for removing the tranny, necessary with the Renix. Slave cylinder inside the bellhousing. On the HO, the cylinder is exterior. The '89 MJ and '92 XJ are two different kettles of fish, slave cylinder wise. Think of a throw out bearing assembly with two hydraulic lines attached to it. :wrench: :thumbsup:

A catalytic converter (colloquially, "cat" or "catcon") is a device used to convert toxic exhaust emissions from an internal combustion engine into non-toxic substances. Inside a catalytic converter, a catalyst stimulates a chemical reaction in which noxious byproducts of combustion undergo a chemical reaction. The type of chemical reaction varies depending upon the type of catalyst installed, for example current North American gasoline powered Light Duty Vehicles are fitted with a Three-way Catalytic Converter which reduces carbon monoxide(CO), unburned hydrocarbons(HC), and oxides of nitrogen(NO, NO2, & N2O) to produce carbon dioxide(CO2), nitrogen(N2), and water(H2O).[1] Catalytic converters were first widely introduced on series-production automobiles in the United States market for the 1975 model year to comply with tightening U.S. Environmental Protection Agency regulations on automobile exhaust emissions. Catalytic converters are still most commonly used on motor vehicle exhaust systems, but are also used on generator sets, forklifts, mining equipment, trucks, buses, locomotives, airplanes and other engine fitted devices. Usually this is in response to government regulation. And no, I didn't type all that. Copy and paste. In some areas of the country they are needed to pass emission tests. No Cat, no pass. As for the Renix running without one, it will run quite well without it. It is a violation of Federal law to remove them.

There's an idler pulley that bolts on to the AC mount.

Yep. Between your explanation and rereading the book, figured it out. Book says all 4 wheels must be raised. I never caught that. I had towed several 4wd before with out any problems. Thinking now they were trac loc and something. Not Quadratrac. What was throwing me was the fact it would go 50 feet before locking. Standard trans mentality, Not auto. :wrench: :thwak:

Yesterday morn I picked up a '93ZJ, 5.2V8, auto, 4wd Quadra trac with the intention of using it for a donor for a MJ swap. Was using a tow dolly to drag it the 50 miles home. Followed the OM instructions on towing, tranny in park, TC in neutral. It didn't work. Would go about 50ft and the rear wheels locked up. Played with shift levers, go another 50 ft and rear end lock up. Did this 3 times, finally did what I should have done in the first place and dropped the drive shaft. The TC was shifting itself from neutral to gear. After getting it home I replaced the DS and drove it 5-6 miles testing everything. Everything worked. Checked TC linkage, everything checked fine, no slop, no play, adjustments on the nose. Any body got any idea on what was going on? :dunno:

Steering box went out on my DD, '87MJ. Out of over 30 XJ-MJ in the yard I couldn't find another manual steering so I pulled everything from a '89XJ and converted to power steering.

looks like I'm out. Gotta be in court Mon at 10AM. Witness. Not defendant. :dunno:

Tried search and gave up in frustration. I have a 1995XJ with bad D35. Surprise surprise. I have a 2001 Zj with Dana 35 and ABS. I have a 1994XJ with Chrysler 8.25. All 4wd. Which will make the best swap, the '01 and ignore the ABS? Or the Chrysler? Is the Chrysler snout the same length or have to swap drive shafts also? The two donors are in the yrd. The recipient is 50 miles away or I would just pull everything and compare.

The AH should be hog tied to the front bumper of his MJ and restart the derby. :nuts:

My personal rule of thumb. Grab any and everything that's in good condition. Even if you don't need it now who knows what the future holds. Also there's the trading material aspect.

Nice looking asses Jim. :thumbsup: Tnx Don. Obviously a connoisseur of fine asses. :brows:

MJ=Moi Jihad

This should be posted in the Working MJ forum but I couldn't find it. Search returned 6333 results. Whatever. MJ mending fence And more fence And more fence At least I got some good help. Hey. In todays labor market you take what you can get. At least I don't have to worry about INS agents.

When radiators get hot they expand, as does most things. They are designed to expand forward, away from the engine and fan. Apparently this one was assembled wrong and it expanded rearward, into the fan, or it may have been put in backwards. :popcorn: