jimoshel

Needs a new Accessory drive belt.

Trade ya a Comanche, your pick, straight across.

I remember back in 1947 or '48, Popular Mechanix had plans on how to build one. They showed a Chrysler station wagon pulling it.

JEEZZ,,,I got a dozen of them things. maybe I should run an ad.

I used a rattle can to tint my MJ. It's kind of inconvenient driving around with the window down, hanging my head out so I can see where I'm going, especially when it's storming. Maybe I should have used a lighter shade of grey, instead of black. :nuts:

I tried to steer her into something more sensible. Waste of breath. It was what she wanted and her money. :dunno:

Ran the door VIN through Chrysler.... its an XJ door, 100%. Sorry guys! Though I'm sure we already came to that conclusion. Checked my notes. I had '92 XJ. Somewhere between reading and typing my mind slipped. Seems to be happening a lot lately. Ever go to the John and then stand there wondering if you were finished and leaving, or had just arrived and have'nt started yet. :rotf:

I was going to get it but I wanted a matched set. He couldn't come up with another one so I passed.

And I'll bet they never even used a computer. My GF stands 4'11" and weighs 95 lbs. She wanted a new truck and was looking at a Dodge 1500 jacked up in the air 3ft. She test drove it and liked it. Told the salesman if he could raise the seat so she could see better she would buy it. $47thou and some change. She was over this afternoon and showed me her new truck. Being curious as to what high technology they used I looked. It was high tech all right. 3 2X4's under the seat brackets. Never even painted them. What the heck. She's happy with it. I'm kidding her about whether to use a Jacob or a step ladder so she can get in and out.

According to the VIN the door is from a 1992 Comanche. The dash VIN is 1989MJ. Anyway who ever the dumbnuts was that sold it to a JY should have his testicles jammed in the door, given a dull saw bladed knife, and then set the truck on fire. :rant: :grrrr:

Was waiting to see if you got a reply closer to your home. I have some complete front axles from '84 to '98 XJ and a couple from '93-2001 Grand Cherokee's. Looking at them I don't see any visual differences. Think there is anything there you could use? Edit; Been checking part numbers. Seems the steering knuckle is the same on everything in the '90's and then some.

Do those only work with a plastic line, or will they also work with metal? Would seem like 3/8 OD is 3/8 OD whether plastic or metal. Then there is always the possibility of just replacing everything with a brass coupling. "Hand me a hammer"

Instead of the big bucks for the stroker why not get a 250, 292 or 300CI Chevy or Ford and drop in? Double the cubes and parts are cheaper and more plentiful.

Correct.

After installing a new radiator in a '87XJ. 4.0 I got some new QD from AutoZone for the lower trans cooler line. Getting everything hooked back up I started it. Trans fluid all over the place. QC fitting had un connected. Thinking maybe I just hadn't dome it right I connected it back up, only I pulled on it to check. It came right off. I tried all four fittings in the box. None of them held. Disgusted I looked around in the weeds and finally found the old one, cleaned it up and used it. Worked fine, no leaks, no dis connects. It was bad enough the package only had the teflon fittings and not the O ring. Had to buy them seperate. Any one suggest a source for obtaining the fitting and O ring in one package that will work?

I've found a little lipstick on the bumper, front, eyeshadow under the headlights and a little rouge on the fenders gets admiring glances. At least some weird stares. :D

The easiest way would be to keep your current instrument cluster and swap the oil, temp. speedo sending units. Otherwise swap the IC and rewire as necessary.

Normally I don't approve cutting the frame. However in this case it appears you know what your doing. Good job. Good work. ;) :bowdown: Where are you located?

Try going to a TV Radio repair shop. Explain the problem and ask if you can browse thru their Sams Photo Fact manuals. You'll need the make and model number. Might even have access to them on line. It's been a couple years since I used them.

When I get a vehicle without a title the first thing I do is try to locate the last titled owner and offer them a $100 for the title. Here they can get a replacement title for $20. Makes it worth their time an trouble. This is only if the vehicle is worth it. Otherwise parts an scrap. And as for the trade, i'd take it.

Something a lot of folks overlook when they're having electrical problems is battery height. In your case the fog lights are lower than the battery so the electrons (Amperage) will be going faster than normal. Thus generating more energy. When the electrons flow uphill say to overhead cab lights then they are bucking gravity and go slower, thus less energy to the lamps. Since the majority of appliances, headlights, tail lights, radio, etc, are on the same plane as the battery there is no noticeable problem. :hmm:

Was working on the hood prop. Hood slipped. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

Can anybody decode a build sheet? I found the build sheet for my '87, the one we're discussing here, and in the bumper block it's marked "BT". Might give a clue as to whether the rear bumper is stock or aftermarket.

Although I have lived, and worked, in rusty areas the most notable being Maine, I still have a hard time comprehending rust. I went out earlier and checked all my trucks, 2 J20, 2 J10, a Gladiator and the rest, 16 being MJ'S. And a couple MJ bumpers that were off. I found one that was so rusty I wouldn't trust it to hold the weight of the ball, let a lone try to pull anything with it. The rest were solid enough enough that I wouldn't hesitate to pull their rated load. I apologize to anyone I offended or ticked off with my hard headed stubbornness on the subject. Anyhoo it appears the only way to positively identify a authentic Jeep bumper from a aftermarket is to look at the mounts. After market has a side plate that bolts to the frame, on the side, using 2,3 or 4 bolts.Seems most use 2 or 3 bolts. The Jeep bumper has the side plate and uses 4 bolts. It also has a piece that mounts to the bottom of the frame using 1 bolt. I got some pics if I can just get them to post. I have 4 MJ'S with a receiver type hitch. They all have the side plate, 2 using 3 bolts and 2 using 4. None had a bottom plate. The metal in them was heavy and I'm sure a guy wouldn't have any problem pulling a 5,000lb load with them. Not commenting on the rest of the truck's ability to do so. I sure hope this helps. El Jimbo :cheers: Reading my long winded essay above I must agree that the bumper in question is not factory. It only has 3 bolts holding the side plate on. However it is heavy, rust free metal and capable of pulling 5K. Jim

Went out looking at bumpers to see what i could see and took some pics, 20 of them to post. Really couldn't see anything to positively identify Jeep from aftermarket except maybe the mounts. Jeep has the side plate and the one bolts to the bottom of the frame. Aftermarket just has the side plate. Couldn't get pics to post. Some good did come from it. Two bolts had worked loose on the '87 mount. I tightened them.