jimoshel

BS!

You can switch the cab. All you have to do is strip it. cut a couple hundred spot welds, switch cabs, carefully realign everything back up and weld away. Or you could just swap dash's. You can swap the bed. Bed's made out of metal. Metal can be cut and welded. You know your skills better than anyone here.

I'm getting ready to replace the ratty, worn seat covers in my MJ. They're buckets from a '90 MJ. Been browsing the Team Cherokee, Quadratech and JC Whitney wish books. What I'm asking for is input on which ones you would advise to avoid, or which one you would recommend. Quality takes precedence over price. El Jimbo

I've towed MJ'S and XJ'S using a tow dolly with my '87MJ, 2.5, 4 speed, 2WD. Longest distance was 65 miles on the Interstate. Held it down to 55. A couple of the steeper hills knocked me down to 45. Would have preferred something heavier and with a little more power but at the moment was all I had. Drive sensibly and you'll be OK. Oh yeah. This was with the factory issued step bumper and 2" ball. Gotta throw this in. The rear axle is a D35 with 3:55.

Depends on how hard it would be to get a title for the MJ. Why doesn't he get one? Should tell you something right there.

That's the whole point of retirement. To do what you want and enjoy doing. NOT what someone else tells you too. RETIREMENT. When you do twice as much for half the pay but with a greater sense of satisfaction than you ever felt while working. Or something like that. El Jimbo

Lean back in the chair, feet up on the porch rail, soft puppy in your lap, cup of fresh brewed coffee in your hand, a plate of fresh baked sinkers by your side and just watch the sun rise. Forget all your cares and worries for 10 minutes and watch that life warming golden globe go from a bright glow to a full, round ball of flaming glory. Note; This only works if you get up B4 the sun. :thumbsup:

If it's already rusted then this is of no help. and it may not be of any help even if it isn't rusted yet. Just throwing it out there for what it's worth. In homebuilt aircraft, and some commercial applications when building a airframe, or repairing a frame a small hole is left, or drilled in one end of the frame. The frame is mounted on two spits, one on each end of the frame. Linseed oil is poured into the frame until it's full or kind a full. The frame is now rotated until the linseed oil has had a chance to coat every inch of the frame interior. The oil is now drained and the hole sealed. I have only seen one frame that rusted using this method and that was on a crop duster with a leaking chemical tank and then it rusted from the outside in. I did this on a '62 Corvair convertible I was restoring. I only had the car for a couple more years so really can't say how long it prevented rust, but then I mainly did it just to be doing it, kind of just proving it could be done. Didn't have rust problems with wooden airframes. On a Comanche with frame rust I would cut out all the rust and literally build a new frame. Once rust has started your not going to stop it. Just remove it and repair as necessary.

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Trying to figure out what the point was?

And well it should, IMHO.

I did that very same thing to a '68 Cadillac DeVille, only I cut the back of the cab off from a Chevy P/U and welded it in, completely sealing the cab back up. Called it a Cadamino. Got more than one stare as I went down the road. Actually it looked dern good. Had the MVD inspect it and they changed the classification from a sedan to a P/U. Ran truck plates on it.

Fixed the foot brake by welding the cable. Cable broke about a inch from the pedal. I figured there was enough that I could have another fitting pressed on and be back in business. No way. after burning half a tank of gas looking and not finding anyone that could or would do it, I came back home and welded the broken ends together. Seems to be working.

88 Jeep Comanche - $3000 (Trinidad, CO) Date: 2011-09-28, 6:32AM MDT Reply to: see below [Errors when replying to ads?] This 1988 Jeep Comanche is ready for some serious fun. Colorado Title, "Stroker" Engine, and Automatic Transmission. The onboard air system includes an A/C-to-Air Compressor Conversion (90-120 PSI), On-Board Air Tank, and an Air Locker Front Axle. Structural upgrades are as follows. Lift Kit, Roll Bar, "Rock Sliders", Custom Front and Rear Bumpers with Shackle and To Points. Differential Covers, Steering Box Brace Kit and Arm, New Steering Stabilizer, Sway Bar Disconnects, Dana 44 Rear End, and High-Pinion Dana 30 Front Axle. Goodies Included are 35x12.50's with Matching Spare, High Lift Jack, Aluminum Bed Rail Covers, Steps (install where you want), and a CB Radio. Problems are... Speedometer and odometer do not work, minor transmission slip. I am asking $3,000 but will accept partial trade in firearms or precious metal. Call Davis at 719-680-8431 between 7:00 AM and 3:30 PM. Location: Trinidad, CO it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests image 0 image 1 image 2 image 3 PostingID: 2621528722 No contact info? if the poster didn't include a phone number, email, or other contact info, craigslist can notify them via email. Copyright © 2011 craigslist, inc. terms of use privacy policy feedback forum

What year? Which engine?

I'm curious as to why you would need a shaft. The U-Joint on one end can be replaced. The splines on the other very rarely go out.

Any shaft from a '84 thru a '90 XJ will work and they're plentiful in the JY. Think they will be the same up to '98. they run $10 here.

Can some one please post a pic of the backside of an instrument cluster with the tach adjuster indicated? Also what years had them and which didn't? I have removed IC from '84 to '89 and '93,'94,98 and '01 and I didn't see a tach adjuster on any of them. I also have the FSM for 1986, 1989 and 1993-94 XJ-MJ and there is no reference to tach adjustment.

A couple days ago I swapped a instrument cluster from a '89 4.0 into my '87 2.5. Works great. All clusters from '84 thru '90 will swap. '87-'89 are direct swap. Later ones will also swap but there's more to them. Speedometer cable hook ups are different, Either swap the cable or the speedo. And the oil-temp sending units. Tach seems to be OK but I'm going to check it against another one some day.

Has any body here had any experience with it? I find there claims, 60HP increase,3-7MPG increase, a bit hard to swallow. If it will only do half of what it claims it can do, in my opinion it's worth it. $70 EBay. :dunno:

The Violet/Orange is the B+ feed. Orange/White is dial illumination. Black is ground. Ignore the others, speakers excluded. Tape them up so they don't short on anything.

1994 ZJ. Power windows no work. Check the FSM for guidance. Not word for word but you get the idea. "If power windows do not operate, remove the door panel to gain access to the motor. To remove the panel, first lower the window." WTF. If I could lower the window I wouldn't be fooling with the dern thing in the first place. :huh???:

Never mind. I Googled it.

Saw two of them standing on the corner the other day. What in H*ll's a Zeitgeist?

The socket you want is a T50. If you have the mini console there is two screws holding it. One on either side. The medium has four and the long one has six. On the short one the screws are accessible by removing the junk thats accumulated in the pockets. To access the screws on the longer ones, remove the storage compartment.