jimoshel

As much as I have no use for the SOB's this is what lawyers are for. Try to settle with the ins co first but if you don't get any satisfaction then let them know your ready to go to court. Surely you're suffering from blurry vision, headaches, whip lash, bad dreams, etc, etc, since the accident. Let them know that you're a nice guy and if you get what you want from them , then there will be no further legal action on your part. Good luck.

There is no spring for the clutch pedal. There is one for the brake pedal. It hooks into a hole near the top of the arm and to the pedal mounting bracket.

Don't forget that there were two different Cherokees'. The FSJ and the later Cherokee XJ. I'm not sure of the years involved. Only the FSJ had the 258. I have several 258 but shipping would be the killer.

That sounded so dern familiar, had to go back and check names. Anyhoo, give ya two bits for the rear bumper but you gotta deliver. Worst case of persistence I ever heard so far today. :brows:

Did ya paint a big arrow on the transmission and tell them that's the end goes in first? :wrench:

Radio Shack carries replacements, or you can just make set. Just make sure you get the right connector as they made 3, most common, pin connector, banana plug and screw on.

I have no idea but I would really like to know. It was a neat strip, not worn or frayed so somebody did it deliberate. Either at the factory or by a PO. Might explain why I got it so cheap. $400. Gave it to the GF and she drove it for six months without a problem. Then a week ago the tail lights quit working and I dug into it to see why. Was really pulling my hair over it.

Take everything you need from a XJ. This is my '87 MJ. Originally idiot light instrument cluster, bench seat, flat arm rests. Everything in the pics came from a '89 XJ. All gauge instrument panel, bucket seats, hocky stick arm rests and center console. To remove the arm rests, rotate down aproximately 60* and pull out. Notice on the stud it has a flat side and is threaded. Be sure and get the metal holding piece for it. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Sorry for the big pics. Thought I had them reduced. JEEEZZ, I hate PhotoBucket.

If anyones interested the reason his wife fell off is because that's a panier for pack horses. Not a riding saddle.

First MJ, Sep, 2009 I drive different ones but the one I drive the most, 1987, 2.5, 4speed, 2wd. 7,000 a year. Maybe 4-5,000 divided up amongst the rest. Total of all owned, 19. Currently in yard, 16.

:rotf:

1993ZJ. No tail lights, later determined no parking lights at all. Logical order of progression. Fuse blown, would pop fuse as soon as it was installed. Unplugged all four light assemblies. Not it. Unplugged all connectors in light circuit, under seat, under dash, under hood, not it. All components in circuit checked OK, leaving only a direct short in the harness. Study of schematics in FSM suggested might be light switch related. Unable to reach lht sw without dropping steering column. Not wanting to drop steering column, disassembled entire dash. No way. Still had to drop steering column. Test light installed in fuse holder would blink while messing with wiring near sw indicated was close. Visual inspection of wiring revealed, Used liquid tape on wire and wrapped harness with black electrical tape. Ready to go back together. Finished up late last night and oddly enough Jeep actually started and ran. All lights worked.

Did ya all hear the one about a midget, 4 prostitutes, a Nun, a pony, a traveling sex toy salesman and a politicion? They were in the woods looking for a tree stump when,,,,,,,,,,OOOPS forgot this was a family site. El :thwak: Jimbo.

That's older than some of the jokes I pull. :doh:

When I was a kid I had a 1927 Harley Davidson WD that I tried, unsuccessfully, to kill myself on. The switch was all rusted and the key had been broke off with the stub still in the lock. Then there wasn't starters and electronic ignitions. Just magnetos. All the sw did was open or close the ground for the mag. I made up a 10 inch piece of wire with a alligator clip on both ends. When I wanted to go somewhere I would clip one end to the mag and the other end to ground. Then kick it 10-15 times and I was on my way. To shut it off, remove the wire. Basic, but it worked.

Remove the cables from the battery. Get a set of jumper cables. Hook one cable direct to the battery neg post. Hook the other end direct to the starter body. Lower mounting bolts good. Hook one end of the other cable direct to the starter input post. Connect the other end of the cable to the battery Pos post. This will confirm or eliminate the starter. Hook a wire from the pos bat terminal direct to the relay. Or just use screwdriver and hold it against the hot wire at the top of the solenoid and the sol terminal, the middle one. This will confirm whether the solenoid is ok or not. Take your test light, everybody has a test light, right? connect one end to ground. Connect the other lead to the solenoid wire, after removing it from the sol, Now turn the ign sw to 'start' . If the sw is good the bulb will light. I wish my problem was so simple. My '93 ZJ has a direct short in the main wiring harness. This was determined after completely removing all 4 parking lights, assemblies, the complete dash and IP and disconnecting all plugs in the circuit. Right now I.m contemplating my options. 1. Go ahead and find and fix it. 2. Install another sw on the dash and run another wire to the parking lights, or 3. Junk it. Did I just hijack a thread?

Loose, dirty, corroded connection. It only takes a couple microamps for a Volt reading thus a dirty connection won't show. It takes almost a 100Amps to run a starter. Have someone hold the ign to 'start' or use a remote starter button. Hold it down. Feel all terminals and see if any are getting warm.

I recently swapped a steering box from a 2001 Grand Cherokee into a '87 MJ. No problem. Mounting bolt pattern and steering column connector are the same.

Pour water on your windshield in winter in BC and you ain't gonna get it off until spring thaw. As for the lock, I heat the key with a propane torch,then insert into the lock. In the old days when people were smokers, we used a Zippo lighter. Get a can of ether, starting fluid. Spray the cylinder, making sure you get the inside good. Do this the night before. It won't thaw a frozen lock but it will dry up the moisture keeping it from freezing. Move to Southern California.

Is that total for the site? Or per member? :ack:

Does the truck still have the previous owners plates on it? If so, then run a couple red lights at intersections that have monitoring cameras. Park in a 'No Parking Zone.' When the PO gets a couple citations, he will look you up.

At the end, I was waiting for the reporter to start the 'Vet and back up, running over the green motorcycle and a couple others before hitting the garage and wrecking it. Nobody lets me have any fun anymore.

Best bet is ti check with local DMV. Every state is different. What is acceptable in one won't be in another one.

Tell the DVM (Dumb Vehicle Managers) that the last time you went thru a speed trap, their radar gun zapped it. Show them the burnt spot on the frame to prove it.

And just where are you located?