Tex06

Best deal I found last year for a master kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BZ9OP3W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $150 shipped. Rebuilt mine and going strong 3000+ miles later.

Had a 73 Carina. It even had a hemi, lol! Cool car, hadn't seen the wagon before. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I like that idea Don! Did you get you 944 canister from the jy or flea-bay? I'm gonna see what one of the other guys did with his non-cruise MJ and if that doesn't look good I'll probably see if I can find an old "coffee can" vacuum canister that will fit (lincolns and fords used them up until the 70s). It looks like it's only a single port canister, is that correct? In case I go with a plastic one, I need to have the right number of ports on it.

Sorry to resurrect the dead, but did you ever get a pic? I've got a non-cruise truck and need to do something about mine.

Under the bumper.... no wonder I wasn't finding it. I was looking near the fender, lol. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

I think I know what's going on here but would like to see if anyone else has had this problem. I had a few issues with my vacuum harness going to the A/C and heater controls in my '92. Patched them up as best I could, mostly broken or cracked lines. Also did the heater valve delete. Now, when the lines were completely broken I found that the default position for the blower is the defrost setting (all air goes to the windshield, none thru the vents). Now my vents work fine at idle or constant speed but when accelerating I lose most of, if not all of my air to the defrost vents. I know I'm losing vacuum (as well as less coming from the engine under load) and that's causing the vents to go back to their "default" setting. My question now is will a vacuum canister solve this? Or am I missing a canister possibly?

Well, not my area of expertise. Doing cruisers grounding tips is the best thing to start with. If that doesn't do it, I'd get a multimeter the next time it doesn't start and check voltages at sensors. Not only will this verify proper voltage but it will serve to refresh your connections as well. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Not viewing one my computer so I can't see the Sig...... year and motor? Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Been tried I've heard. They don't fit, no idea if they could be modified though. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Also, congratulations and welcome to the club! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

A good place to start is here: http://comancheclub.com/index.php?/topic/13447-What-is-the-most-important-tip-you'd-share-with-MJ-owners? You have a Renix motor which is different from the '91-92 4.0L. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Because Chrysler didn't design it that way! [emoji14] In all honesty, as long as it doesn't over tighten it should be an improvement. Too tight and it will accelerate wear on the whole timing set. Where that happy medium is is anyone's guess though. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Can we say "duh" at this point? Lol, in all honesty the whole trip has been awesome to watch. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Maybe someone else can chime in but I'd do the master/slave combo from a 94+, clutch from the same year, and a '90 flywheel.

Damn, I guess I'm the only one who prefers the bench. My dog also likes it so he can stretch out. But then again, my ideal seat is the bench from an old Chevy truck. Can't be beat! Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

If your synchros are shot, you can still shift into gear easily when the truck is not running. Just fyi. I think the clutch is suspect. Not fully disengaging, could be a reused flywheel, worn clutch, or slave/ master issues. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

So if I go 3.73, I can use same carrier, correct? And I'll need a new carrier for the D30HP up front I believe. Edit: I'd like to buy this kit if it'll do both front and rear. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aly-360027/overview/ Or Revolution has a similar kit for $435 with thick gears for the D44 and a carrier for the D30. Any thoughts on either?

I'm seeing that. The instructions are pretty clear on which way they want them to face though. The engineer in me wants to know why they specified the decal forward instead of just "match orientation to OE". The only difference in operation I see would be slightly lower stance and a possibilty of "bottoming out" if the springs were severely flexed. And as Don pointed out, yes you would be able to grease them which is a big deal for me. Unless someone can point out something I missed, I think they'll stay in this configuration. At least until I start going skyward with the suspension :D

According to JKS they're correct. Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

Ahaha....I'm not surprised. From what I read on your link, it looks like the F-150 shackles are 4.4" center to center (which is about 1/8" longer than stock) putting my shackles about 5/8" longer than the originals. If installed correctly, any idea what this correlates to in vertical inches? I'm thinking not much...

Center to center is 5". Thanks Eagle. I knew one of those number sets was it. Does the shackle height directly equal lift height?

Was under the rear end today changing the rear end fluid and had questions. It looks like I have small lift shackles (That's what they're called I think) from JKS. Any idea how much these are giving me back here? The rear bumper is attached to these shackles.... is this stock? I'm leaning towards no. And finally, wanted to confirm that I have stock 3.07 gearing. D44 rear end, have the tag but it's pretty trashed. Here's the ring gear though:

Who says "get a biggah hammah!" doesn't fix anything? :D

http://www.phoenixfriction.com/p-30095-fw554-flywheel-jeep-25l.aspx Hope that helps! Edit: Might not, didn't realize the '91+ was a different flywheel design

Lol, esp since now you could put a sweet REM in it. Seriously the only reason I want a Renix.