Tex06

It's been a year....how's the transition going? I went from Field Service to design engineer, living on my tools and on the road to an 8-5 in front of a computer. You can tell because I post to here a lot more

Oh yeah, it's always cheaper to do it yourself but time is my biggest constraint right now. I can source a decent '99-'01 XJ for about $3500-4000 locally, if that can be beat then we'll talk. Planning on keeping the current trans/xfer case....as far as painting I'd prefer it to be painted while it's apart but if they've done an MJ swap before and have a shop they previously used with good results I'm open to that. As far as I know, there's nothing more than light surface rust on the Jeep, however I would go over it prior to handing it over and repair/record anything I come across. It's been a while since I pulled my carpet up and checked my floorboards. I don't mind the drive...I can pack my motorcycle and ride it back Dog, human or both?

Mind posting 'em?

Do you have access to a newer axle with the proper gearset in it? If so, I'd swap it as the CAD axle you have is a known weak spot.

https://hickory.craigslist.org/cto/d/sherrills-ford-1991-jeep-comanche/7225683242.html

Just spitballing at the moment, but I would like to do a 97+ (Ideally 99+) swap on my '92 longbed. Issue is, I don't have time for it and most of my tools, my shop, my lift, air compressor, etc etc is in Georgia in storage while the MJ and I are in Louisiana. I figured with winter coming up, I'd throw this out there to someone who's done it before: Would you do the swap for someone else and what would you charge? I'm looking for the dash, seats, motor, keep the original doors (probably swap the windows but keep the shells), and front clip then paint. Shoot me a PM, there's been a few swapped MJs up for sale recently and although I'd like them, I am partial to mine. Shoot me a PM and let me know if you're interested.

I've got a member of another Comanche group (I know, *gasp*) who called first dibs. If he falls through, I'll bring it up with me.

I've got the tailgate portion of one. I know that's no help 😂

You have an ad up yet? I've been looking at airstream basecamps (the older ones) as I want something I can haul my motorcycle with. With your trailer, I could take off my camper top and put the bike in the back of the truck....

Didn't realize you had so many!

Shouldn't be an issue. That's just the voltage that it will absolutely unlatch, no matter what over an entire factory run of these things (probably several 10s of thousands at a time). It's most likely much higher than that, probably just below the "latch in" voltage (IIRC they're usually about .5-1VDC difference in real world application). Worst case, add in a small resistor just before the relay. It'll drop the voltage the relay "sees" effectively raising the unlatch voltage. Bonus, it would also raise the latch-in voltage closer to 12VDC.

I'm gonna be the first to veto this idea. Arduinos are very cool, very powerful little devices but one thing they are not is reliable. I've had to go back and "undo" several things where some enterprising individual scabbed in an arduino in a place where a proper PLC should have been and then they can't figure out why things go to dookie-doo when it crashes and has to be restarted. They are one of my #1 headaches when improperly used. (but if you want to try it, don't let me stop ya!)

A warning against PLA. It doesn't like heat, or stress. You're gonna have both under the hood. Just the tension of the bolts is enough to cause deformities over time and the heat from the motor will severely accelerate this. You might get the truck running with this but I'm afraid that's not a long term solution. I've had PLA deform in the car sitting on the dash in the hot Louisiana sun....and that's only about 120F give or take.

Yeah, after reading your previous post, I was curious why you were so bent on a Zener.... I use digikey to spec out a lot of my electronic parts, even if I don't purchase from them, their website is easy to use and read. Their automotive relays have a column of "must operate voltage"....I'd guess that if you got one that was >10% above whatever your 5VDC actually is you'd be fine. I'd personally grab something that MOV is around 7VDC, slap it in and forget about it. Here's one that would work but is way overkill. It's Must Operate is 8VDC and Must Release is 4VDC. Assuming you're at 5VDC +/-10%, this would work.....it's just rated for 75A, lol. Dig around and see what you can find, relays are cheap so if one doesn't work the way you think it should, swap it. A lot of these you can find on Amazon or eBay too, I just spec them with digikey. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-potter-brumfield-relays/1904001-2/3466302

Very cool.

Fair enough. I've got my eyes on a set of trucklites after driving a buddies XJ with them. My 2019 Africa Twin also has LEDs. The eBay stuff that looks like an egg crate? Trash. What about running a relay in parallel on the high beam side? The 5VDC would feed straight to the DRL and then when the 12VDC came in, it would trip the relay into working and split the amperage between the relay and the OEM circuit. Not ideal, but it would work, be an easy plug&play, and not break the bank.

Ahhhhh. Now it all makes sense. A couple of ideas that don't answer your question: 1. Upgrade to LED lights and use the stock wiring harness. No high amp draw so no supplementary relay needed. 2. IIRC, the weak point in the OEM circuit is the wire and grounding. Cut out the stock wire (I believe it's 14 gauge aluminum) and replace with 12 gauge copper. Add in an extra ground for the driver's side light. EDIT: Saw you had basically already done this but with the relays hardwired in. What size wire did you go back with? Both of these limit extra wiring and connections under the hood which is usually a good thing. One is cheap but takes time, the other is quick but more $$$.

This might help: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1534384&cc=1181821&jsn=70299 $62 plus the ride for the OEM part.

Sorry to hijack but this seems like a good place to ask a D44 question. I'm on rockauto today and I'm looking for a set of drums for my rear axle....does anyone know if the D44 had 9" or 10" drums on the MJ? I've got a '92 if that matters. There's a rebuild kit, 2 drums, 2 wheel cylinders, and all 4 shoes for less than $100....seems like a screaming deal if it'll fit.

What are you using to track mileage? I see you're 2WD but hitting 22+ mpg seems crazy unless it was mostly a slow cruise (35-55 mph) for a full tank.

https://www.fuelly.com/car/jeep/comanche/1992/glaser06/429321 Averaging 16.9mpg. Running 31" ATs with 3.07 stock gearing and the AX-15. Do have a camper shell though....that probably isn't helping things. Last 2 months have been 100% on the highway cruising at 70-75 mph. (150 miles round trip to work with 72 miles of interstate each way)

Not this guy

I've got a '92 with stock headlight harness.....so you're telling me that it should have automatic DRL? I.e. Key is on and my headlamps light up partially? My truck was purchased with California spec emissions (I just found that out) so I assume it would have Cali-spec electronics too.

Awesome!

Very cool idea. What filament did you use for the spacer (if you know by chance)? I have a 3D printer and have been experimenting printing in different materials specifically to be able to make my own car parts.