Tex06

A warning against PLA. It doesn't like heat, or stress. You're gonna have both under the hood. Just the tension of the bolts is enough to cause deformities over time and the heat from the motor will severely accelerate this. You might get the truck running with this but I'm afraid that's not a long term solution. I've had PLA deform in the car sitting on the dash in the hot Louisiana sun....and that's only about 120F give or take.

Yeah, after reading your previous post, I was curious why you were so bent on a Zener.... I use digikey to spec out a lot of my electronic parts, even if I don't purchase from them, their website is easy to use and read. Their automotive relays have a column of "must operate voltage"....I'd guess that if you got one that was >10% above whatever your 5VDC actually is you'd be fine. I'd personally grab something that MOV is around 7VDC, slap it in and forget about it. Here's one that would work but is way overkill. It's Must Operate is 8VDC and Must Release is 4VDC. Assuming you're at 5VDC +/-10%, this would work.....it's just rated for 75A, lol. Dig around and see what you can find, relays are cheap so if one doesn't work the way you think it should, swap it. A lot of these you can find on Amazon or eBay too, I just spec them with digikey. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/te-connectivity-potter-brumfield-relays/1904001-2/3466302

Very cool.

Fair enough. I've got my eyes on a set of trucklites after driving a buddies XJ with them. My 2019 Africa Twin also has LEDs. The eBay stuff that looks like an egg crate? Trash. What about running a relay in parallel on the high beam side? The 5VDC would feed straight to the DRL and then when the 12VDC came in, it would trip the relay into working and split the amperage between the relay and the OEM circuit. Not ideal, but it would work, be an easy plug&play, and not break the bank.

Ahhhhh. Now it all makes sense. A couple of ideas that don't answer your question: 1. Upgrade to LED lights and use the stock wiring harness. No high amp draw so no supplementary relay needed. 2. IIRC, the weak point in the OEM circuit is the wire and grounding. Cut out the stock wire (I believe it's 14 gauge aluminum) and replace with 12 gauge copper. Add in an extra ground for the driver's side light. EDIT: Saw you had basically already done this but with the relays hardwired in. What size wire did you go back with? Both of these limit extra wiring and connections under the hood which is usually a good thing. One is cheap but takes time, the other is quick but more $$$.

This might help: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1534384&cc=1181821&jsn=70299 $62 plus the ride for the OEM part.

Sorry to hijack but this seems like a good place to ask a D44 question. I'm on rockauto today and I'm looking for a set of drums for my rear axle....does anyone know if the D44 had 9" or 10" drums on the MJ? I've got a '92 if that matters. There's a rebuild kit, 2 drums, 2 wheel cylinders, and all 4 shoes for less than $100....seems like a screaming deal if it'll fit.

What are you using to track mileage? I see you're 2WD but hitting 22+ mpg seems crazy unless it was mostly a slow cruise (35-55 mph) for a full tank.

https://www.fuelly.com/car/jeep/comanche/1992/glaser06/429321 Averaging 16.9mpg. Running 31" ATs with 3.07 stock gearing and the AX-15. Do have a camper shell though....that probably isn't helping things. Last 2 months have been 100% on the highway cruising at 70-75 mph. (150 miles round trip to work with 72 miles of interstate each way)

Not this guy

I've got a '92 with stock headlight harness.....so you're telling me that it should have automatic DRL? I.e. Key is on and my headlamps light up partially? My truck was purchased with California spec emissions (I just found that out) so I assume it would have Cali-spec electronics too.

Awesome!

Very cool idea. What filament did you use for the spacer (if you know by chance)? I have a 3D printer and have been experimenting printing in different materials specifically to be able to make my own car parts.

Welp, turns out it was the slip yoke ujoint. $118 later the jeep runs smooth as butter again.

232k and counting. Broken trip meter though..... Edit 12/7/20: 235873.0 and climbing.... Edit 12/13/21: Finally hit 250k last month. 250810.3 at fillup yesterday. Edit 7/20/23: 263007 as of last fill-up.

Well.... not the front driveshaft. Moving on to the rear tomorrow....

Not the first time I've seen this mentioned. Will be my solution, I'll have pics, etc. when I get around to it!

Harmonic balancer. Vibrations change with rpm.

No worries, jdog, we appreciate all the work you do around here. On a slightly different note, is there a listing of all the available options somewhere? I looked for a sticky and didn't see one, wasn't exactly sure how to search for it without pulling up every post from the registry.

This one is LWB. Has metric ton springs from PO.

Yup. Worst part is, I stumbled onto this thing by complete accident. Guy had it and his gf didn't like diving stick....so I traded a 94 BMW 740 (that I hated) for it. I paid less for this than most people do for their non-drivers....but I do love this damn thing!

I was quoted $400 in 2018 here in South Louisiana. Ended up buying my own tools and doing it myself for my Nova. I'll be doing my MJ this winter, don't know how far Baton Rouge is from ya but you help me with mine and we can do yours gratis one weekend.

I've got a big of slop rotationally but not seeing anything in the ujoint itself. Will do. Think I can get to most of those without any special tools (going off memory).

I think you mean transfer case

Good to know. I'll have to see if I have a spare one laying around....my press is in storage in a different state.