zomeizter

Kazam, go ahead and replace/upgrade all the steering components in one shot, this is labor intensive but the handling improvement is grand...

You mentioned that both sensors went to an open circuit when engine was started, probably means those are pressure switches not pressure "senders" IAW the diagram by Ohm...

Mine did this randomly for a bit, turned out to be a corroded brake/hazard fuse and dirty fuse socket, check this out closely.

Get you a schematic for power and ground distribution and check all connections for good contact...a test light makes verification easy.

I took apart the fuse box and main connector on my MJ a while back and used some high end clear silicone around the perimeter of the assembly, this took care of ONE leak source. At least on my beast, any and all perforations on the engine compartment side of the cab cause water intrusion. These will be addressed once the V6 dies and a real engine swap is performed.

^^This^^

It is possible, you can identify them with a test light but may need an assistant at the ignition switch to crank when required...

I would start by checking the wiring terminals at the starter/solenoid, usually there is a large cable at the positive starter motor stud and a smaller gauge wire at the "S" stud on the starter solenoid. Some models have an additional wire at the "I" stud on the starter solenoid that goes to the ignition coil positive terminal/stud.

Yes, they should be the same or very close depending on emissions version...

Looking sexy AF!

I will mosdef be getting a winch as well, so the provisions for one must be there. Ghet, I am really liking the one on the scooped XJ, you know who makes that?

Nothing wrong with simple, looks aight!

I think you're overthinking this Pete...carry on.

My dudes, I finally was able to put some dough aside and am ready to grab some bumpers for the chupacabra. Surely there is a "best" bumper set out there and y'all must know this, so where are them at? Watchu got that makes your bumpers best? No need to just say "I love mine" and not tell us why, but if you must...

On my 2.8 'manche, I swapped in a valve from a 99 Yukon, been holding up for 5+ years now. Not a bad idea to bypass it completely though, and the only reason I still have it is because I used to hit the sand dunes in the southwest and running the heater helped keep the engine temp under control...mis dos centavos.

@Gabs2988 en cuanto a personalizar es a lo que vas, todo depende de tu habilidad y herramienta para construirte unas bases metalicas y acomodar unas luces de diodos emisores. Yo ando sobres de algo asi pero ahorita me encuentro lejos de casa y no puedo darle al proyecto, tal vez el fin de noviembre regrese y pueda siguir con el invento...saludos.

This.

Agree with Pete, them LCAs are pulling the axle into the negative caster territory...On the other hand, I think I need that sexy OTK crossover steering setup...

Rivnuts work great, I'd go that route if the top of the spinning studs is inaccessible...

Correction: flux is your friend for soldering but ensure you thoroughly remove flux residue after soldering to inhibit conductor corrosion. :)

I see unstable idling there that maybe caused by an intake/vacuum leak, ST fuel trim sorta confirms, do things get better once at operating temp?

Hand solder instructor here, you should know that flux is your friend!

My brother used to have an '80s beemer that had a very pleasant amber illumination for the instrument cluster and various interior items, this was so pleasing to my eyes and made night driving in that thing very enjoyable. I've tried to reproduce that color on my hoopties' clusters but have failed. IIRC, the bulbs inside the beemer's cluster where halogen but the amber sweetness came from the lenses in the assembly...

Hehe, I was just about to mention the above by Gog...

My bad, I thought you were after swapping in GM 1 ton springs...