carnuck

I've seen heated intakes on Jeeps and Chevs (others too) but not carbs. Mitsubishi had hot water passing through it.

Take off the dist cap and set the timing mark to TDC. Rotate up to zero, then watch rotor as you rotate the other way till it moves. Over 15 degrees means time for a new chain.

Seat of the pants @15 HP returned

Before I put the hot air hose from the exhaust manifold to my aircleaner I had the BBD in my '82 Spirit ice up a LOT! Depends on weather and moisture content in the air!

If the timing chain has a lot of slack, then a new chain will put the cam timing back where it is supposed to be. Cam timing affects power greatly. (mine still wasn't burning oil either. The blowby disappeared at the same time. I figure it was mostly from the chain hitting the timing cover as it was noisy!)

Kind of a town like Spuzzum is huh?

At first I thought you were talking about the movie! :ack: I didn't have my camera charged up today when I went to my cabin or I'd have pics of the doe (with her grown up fawn) and a young black bear (I had just enough battery to snap a couple pics before that of the DJ I'm going to sell)

Castrol GTLMA is low moisture absorptive 3/4 designed for ABS systems. The glycerol comes from Soy Beans and olives IIRC. (at least it did back in the Stone Ages when I started working on cars) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brake_fluid

I just reached up, grabbed a handful and yanked!

IIRC, that red MJ is running an AMC 304 with 401 crank (331 cu inches)

One more thing: There are TWO flashers! Have a nice day! :wavey:

Unless you go carbed, most cams are NOT ground to work for EFI and will screw around with the sensors. Put HO injectors into a Renix motor and you will get a NICE seat of the pants kick. The HO head is only about 15% of the power boost in the HO motor.

I had trouble with my fuel pump relay. Swapped it around with the other one and starting/running probs went away!

When I swapped my dash to get gauges (about to do it again so I have the auto shifter marker hooked up) I undid the screws holding the speedo in (with pics as proof) and swapped it into the new one. Pretty easy to do. Beware that there are a couple different cluster plugs and if you get an '86, it won't work in an '87 (especially 4 cyl to 6 cyl)

With that weird wear, is there any others like it? If so, the crank may have been warped before being installed.

If you use the larger injectors from the HO on your Renix motor, you WILL get more power (it's also a large portion of the HO's extra power) but you'll pass fewer gas stations!

DON'T DO IT! You can fry the computer from the power spike as well as kill the alternator if it wasn't already dead. That trick was good on old cars without electronics, but I have seen too many people fry alternators and computers from doing this! Had a customer come in a couple weeks ago complaining his new alternator (third one) was no good. Went out to his rig and watched in horror as he pulled the cable off the battery and say "See? It won't run longer than 5 minutes with the cable off which means it's no damn good!" Took awhile to explain to him that is car, which died when he pulled the cable off, now needed a computer. "It was working fine when I pulled in here! It must be your damn faulty alternator that killed it!" :mad: I said to him "Here's your sign!" after trying 5 different times to explain to him what he did wrong. Now he's going to sue us because we didn't explain to him in advance that would happen. :rotf: When you pull the cable off, the electronic regulator full fields the alt (maximum output) which has no place to go unless everything in the rig is on and the RPMs are high enough for the alt to keep up. It shoots up to almost 18 volts before killing itself or $omething el$e!

The base gasket for the 2.8L V6 has a heater built into it (Chev used them in Citations, etc about '80 to '83) It was their answer to Mopar's "Leanburn" system. I would look for a late model 2.8L or 3.4 from an S10 and score the TBI system (only 2 injectors and VERY reliable!) Got the whole system from the local Junkyard here ('88/'89 S10, Blazer or Camaro with 2.8L IIRC) for $100 (harness, computer, intake, TBI and dist) and it was pretty much all under the hood. That was a couple years back. I know several of the NAXJA guys have done the swap with writeups but I haven't been there for awhile. PS: There are at least two 2.5L '86 MJs running around with a factory carb. One is in Alaska.

Crank position sensor, TPS, CTS, wire connections. See if you still have spark. If so, then it's a fuel problem (shut down of pressure or computer gone south)

I would consider a new timing chain. It brought my 250,000 mile motor roaring back to life when I went to Ouray in '02. It's beyond 300,000 miles now and has been transplanted into my son's offroad buggy.

Someone just posted a burgundy pair in the for sale section (I think they are in GA)

This is what I got my driver's license in (back in '75) http://www.military-today.com/apc/grizzly_apc.htm

I ordered one in to my NAPA store last year no prob?

On my old Cherokee I cut out the offending fuse connectors and put an inline fuse it it's place. I use Castrol GTLMA fluid in my brakes, but especially in the clutch cyls of these rigs (older ones even state so on the lid) ABS can't use DOT5 because it has no lubricant for the computer valves, which causes them to score the bore and bind up (resulting in suddenly having no brakes) ASE and NHTSA both say do NOT mix DOT5 with other fluids (it even says so on the bottles) DOT5 is silicon based and the Dot3/4 is veggie oil based.

I would take all the rod caps off and inspect the oil holes. If the crank was turned (machined, not rotated) then there might be burrs at the oil holes in the crank. They will scar the rod bearings (without doing a lot of damage at first other than an oil groove on a fresh motor, but left sitting it will gouge a path)