carnuck

Axles are indeed very wide for an MJ but I have a '66 Travelall D44 to put under mine with Chrysler mini van rims for back spacing. Leaves in the front requires adding framework to handle the weight because they weren't designed for that. The TH400 is passenger's side drop so it's a no-go.

4 cyl were always 21 spline trans EXCEPT the 3 speed 904 auto ones which were shallow 23 spline (same as FSJs) AX4 is a std trans. AW4 is auto. '91 up 4x4 AW4s were 23 spline (and they changed the output length around '95) You would have to build an adapter using the front part of a tcase to put the driveshaft up to to support the skipping rope action (there is no bearing or bushing in the back of the 4x4 trans case because they use the front bearing of the tcase to absorb the side load.)

There are multiple different spring rates for FSJ springs front and back. Front are the same length, but rears are different (J10's are alone, but J20/Wagoneer are same length with MAJOR load differences)

I chucked mine and couldn't be happier.

The tailgate is pretty easy to build if you have an old one for a template and hardware.

AX-5 is also 21 spline and AX-15 is 23 spline (both 4x4 versions). I've had people claim there are 21 spline ones (factory replacements when the BA 1/5 died under warranty) but no photographic proof yet. The BA 10/5 shifter is held on with 3 bolts (and they only came 21 spline in 4x4 version). The AX series are held on with 4 bolts. AX-5 shifter *might* work on the AX-15. Looking at the bell of the trans, check where the starter goes. The 4 cy/2.8 V6 bell has no holes to bolt the starter on with. The 4.0L bell does. HO and Renix flywheels and CPS are NOT interchangeable. The '89 I recently bought has an HO motor the PO couldn't get running and I lay odds it's the wrong flexplate (looking at it through the starter hole)

Those are called drive slugs. The locking hubs allow for less fuel consumption on the highway when unlocked (at least with my 6 cyl they did) and they also allow you to put your rig in 4 lo with them unlocked for more pulling power with a trailer as a 2wd.

I had similar trouble with an '85 XJ and my '86 MJ. Turned out the clutch pedal arm was bent and pushing the master on enough angle that it caused the piston inside to go on an angle and draw air in. I finally figured it out (several masters and slaves later) when the clutch pedal in the '85 broke and I put in a spare from a parts rig and the clutch became perfect (without bleeding it yet again)

The other 1/2 of the teeth come out in Jan and I'll have to recuperate from that too. The bacteria was attacking my heart and causing chest pains as well as breathing problems and memory trouble from the toxins plus joint pain and zero energy.

Actually, just to confuse things a bit more: Pre '74 J4000s could come with the 8 lug full float package single or dual rear wheel (some with factory motorhome chassis too) OR they could come with a D60-2 or D53. The last 2 are single rear wheel bearing (per side) with 5 on 5.5" bolt pattern. The center section stuff is sort of interchangeable between them, but axle bearing$ are ob$oletum unobtainium. If the rear diff cover bolts have 9/16" heads, then it's one of the 2. M715 came with closed knuckle D60 front and D70 rear with an odd military bolt pattern wheel.

Also manually adjust the rear brakes.

Turn the trans as fast as you can by hand (if your old clutch disc is around, it can be used as a spinner) If the noise goes away when you push the clutch just a little bit or gets far worse, it's usually a throw out bearing. If the front bearing allows too much movement of the input shaft, the teeth ride up under load (because the input shaft and counter shaft push each other apart) and strip the tips off. Running low on oil or not changing it when it breaks down also causes self destruction.

One heat range colder on plugs often helps too. I put NGK BKR6EK plugs in my '87 and pass the Etest here in Seattle without a cat or EGR (they are there, but non-functional) The plugs also got rid of the ping monster

As I understand it (and I could be wrong), a CV joint has a certain amount of flex in it (two joints together instead of one). you just can't have that flex right next to the slip joint. Or it will play crack the whip as it goes skip to my loo!

My favorite present was the presence of friends and family. Sadly missing Mom and Dad this Christmas

Retard timing 5 degrees and NOx will drop like a rock.

They were probably a dealer installed setup then because I see a lot of them here

How do they ship so cheap from overseas? http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-9003-Harness ... p=mtr#shId On another note, someone on another list I'm on said there is an aftermarket round head light header panel in the works?

I drove my '87 for almost 2 years before finding out one of the rear lines (return to the front) was rotted off. I bypassed the rear valve to get the brakes working and that's when the fluid started squirting out. I plugged off the return line at both ends and that cured the brake problems.

Dang! Beat me to it! I've yet to try the early '87 Dakota tail lights I got in mine.

:hijack: Are you having tooth problems? Just found out recently my teeth (and my head injury from a '91 Civic falling on my head and popping my right eye out) were causing memory issues. It's only a week since I had just the lower teeth pulled (bacterial infection) and while I still don't feel 100%, I can definitely feel the fog has lifted. I have been making LOTS of memory glitches over the past couple years and felt run down. Even my thyroid was affected. :/hijack:

I've swapped the harness without thinking about there being any differences (haven't hooked the power up yet, so no damage done) I converted my '87 MJ 4.0L with BA 10/5 to 4x4 and auto with the engine 1/2 of the underhood harness and computer/TCU from a 07/90 XJ I parted. The biggest bonus was the C101 connector going away!

Make sure it's not ATF from the lines rubbing through at the bell housing.

Hey Cody. If you can find the email I sent you or remind me which email addy I sent it from (I have 17 different ones I use for work, family, amc/Jeep, other brands and a couple disposables for CL to keep the spam/scammers away)

Sounds like maybe dash ground is going bad?