mnkyboy

I couldn't imagine that its + ground Is there any model info on the tractor?

You probably broke the speedometer cable. As for the axle if you have a Dana 35 junk it and get another axle. If you have a M20 or Dana 44 it may be worth fixing. Diff work isn't cheap and unless you know what your doing its not something you do yourself.

I usually use copper coat on them.

Pretty much all regulators/vaporizors now days come ready to plum in water,I usually pull water off the back of the head. I always run water as it keeps the regulator from freezing which causes a lean condition and eventually will cut fuel flow. Keeping it warm also helps keep down mercaptane/tar build up in the system,you can also buy a thermostat that goes in line to warm the regulator faster and hold a specific temperature but its usually not required. I have converted air cooled engines but regulator placement gets tricky. The valve that cuts fuel is the lock off,the one with the hose is a vacuum lock off,Impco VFF30 is the most common. Apply vacuum and it turns on,take it away and it turns off. You can also run an electric lock off that gets power off the key switch,these are also usually ran through an oil pressure switch as a saftey. For added safety some systems use both vacuum and electric in series.

IMO 10.50s would look too narrow,I've got 33X12.50s on mine and I like them.

They are usually prefered for forced induction

Basically you need a LPG mixer,regulator,lock off and some hoses. Just off the top of my head If I was going to convert a 4.0l I would find a points style distributor that fits and put a pertronix in it. Then I would get an Impco 250 mixer,model j regulator,and a VFF30 or an electric lock off. then just adapt the mixer were the TB goes and plum everything in.

They work fine,I've known people who will go out of their way to get them over the other type.

You could put together a LPG kit for a lot less then $850 I've done lots of propane conversions and have never bought a kit,there isn't a lot to it.

As far as I know all the mounts and spring pads are in the same locations

Should bolt in but its a LP30 and most likely will have CV shafts in it. It would work but would be a downgrade from stock.

You have to be careful with NAPA.there's two different types of NAPA stores,corporate and independent and sometimes you can't tell the difference. The corporate stores usually have much better prices then the independent stores so its good to call a couple stores for prices. A while back I called one and got quoted $80 (can't remember for what) I went and called another one and got the same part for around $30.

Are you factoring in that your odometer is off?

I will keep an eye out up here

I met a guy that did the same thing but for desert racing, I'm thinking your going to need a 2wd trans. Why would you want to convert a 4X4 when 2wds are easy to find and fairly cheap?

This took me about 22' of 1 3/4" DOM and a Saturday

Wish I could remember the part # for my rear line,IIRC it crossed to a dakota but it went in as an extention. At full droop I still have a ton of hose length left. It came in RROs soa kit.

NAPA# 38620,38621. IIRC 96ish chevy 2wd truck and they are a little over 25" long Only issue I noticed is some calipers have the hose on the side and some are on the back edge. Mine are on the side and they worked fine but my old calipers were on the back edge and I'm not sure how well they would have worked. In the rear I have an extention on my OEM hose number for the extention is #36744

The only thing I buy local is stuff from local parts houses. I avoid the offroad shops because the mark ups are high and they usually have to order stuff anyway so why not order it myself and save some cash. FWIW 2wd chevy truck brake lines are longer then the IRO lines and in stock at most parts houses,IIRC I paid about $22 for mine.

It would be sweet to get a bunch of MJs together like some of the other regions have. There just isn't that many of us out here on CC which I can't understand since MJs are fairly common out here.

most of the members here from the NW are active in the NAXJA nw chapter. If you throw something up over there you will get better results.

I wouldn't worry much about the mounts they would be very easy too modify if you don't feel they are strong enough. What really matters is the bumper its self which from the materials used should be ok. Seeing what they get for that thing makes me glad that I made my own.

You would also need a new bearing retainer on the transmission which are usually $150+ unless you can find a used one

can't on the UCAs,the adj link has to go on the frame. I have all four adj links at the frame end and bushings on the axle but I'm using rebuildable flex jounts so I don't get the noise and viberation of a hiem.

You could but your not gonna save a lot by doing that,I paid $307 shipped for all four adj arms with rebuildable flex joints from Hell creek