mnkyboy

I didn't even try to splice my bed floor. I cut it so the back of the bed fit under the floor then I welded it there. Not a good pic but you can see how I did it.

He is BPB here on CC.

I'm sure Ben would appreciate it. Just call and ask him to tell you a story.

Haven't done much to the MJ. I tinkered on the engine donor a bit, I want to make sure everything is good on it before the swap so I'm not chasing pre existing problems when it goes in the MJ. It runs pretty well and should be a good upgrade in power. I've been driving the MJ lately instead of my DD and its got me really wanting to get going on the swap. My DD has a V8 and 5spd so the MJ is feeling pretty gutless.

You've never towed a big enclosed trailer have you? An 18 wheeler going past on the freeway can cause a sway reguardless of speed.

You can't always adjust the load, sometimes it is what it is.

I've done a lot of towing over the years and it has always worked well for me. Pulse braking as Pat suggested would work as well. The main thing is you don't try to steer or hard brake.

Should be able to just lengthen the cables and move the box. My box is under the hood down in front of the crank pulley and I have a wireless remote in the cab. I can operate the winch from anywhere within about 100'.

Explain how its a bad idea. To stop the sway you have to pull the trailer and tow rig tight, this will pull them both in line stopping the sway. The best way to do this is to activate your trailer brakes but if you don't have trailer brakes you need to accelerate the tow vehicle a little basicly doing the same thing. A trailer rarely sways during acceleration and it doesn't take much to pull everything straight. If you don't have trailer brakes and you hit the brakes on the tow rig the swaying trailer is now pushing you which IS a bad idea and exactly what happened when my wife rolled our XJ.

Kinda looks like my garage at home except mine is full of 63 Falcon

Typically the last thing you want to do is slow down when the trailer starts swaying. You accelerate to power out of the sway,once the trailer is back under control then you slow down. A lot of times if you brake with a swaying trailer it makes the swaying worse.

Hit the pick and pulls, my brother pulled a 3.55 D44 out of an XJ a couple weeks ago for about $160.

Be extra careful, go slow and steady and pray you don't have to make any sudden maneuvers. I used to tow with my XJ a lot till one day it bit me,the wife was towing a small sports car on a dolly when she lost control. I now do all my towing with a 3/4 ton truck, IMO an XJ is not an ideal tow rig whether its rated for it or not.

I like that my MJ is stripped down without all the bells and whistles, just the way a jeep should be. I have owned several brand new rigs and currently own some nice newer rigs I could drive but I would rather drive my older rigs, currently the MJ only gets driven on weekends but there are some mornings where I head out for work and walk right past my dd and climb in the MJ then have to get out and get in the dd.

Well its the last day of March, thanks for choosing my MJ and thanks for all the great feedback/comments. Can't wait to see who gets picked for April.

Did you contact the vendor or Yukon to let them know there is a problem?

He is going to 4.56 gears so the stock carrier won't work.

I would be worried about your mechanic, the spartan is probably the easiest locker on the market to install.

I prefer a 3 or 4 link over a radius/y link longarm but really any of them will do the job. I don't think F150 springs would be a good choice as they are too stiff. I've heard of F150 coils used up front but never heard of anyone using them in the rear.

Make sure you get it all off and sand a bit before priming again. You don't want the enamel reacting to the wet primer.

But he says the first coat went ok, if it was dry enough to sand it should have been ok to reshoot. It won't be hard to remove, it can be scrubbed off with reducer then what's left can be sanded off.but then you will have to start over. Typically when I shoot enamels either acrylic or alkyd I try to be done in one session so I don't have to recoat again.

What's wrong with your steering? Coverting from manual to power is one of the best mods I have done to my MJ. I couldn't imagine going from power to manual.

Have any pics? What kind of paint and what are you reducing it with? I've seen cheap enamels take a long time to dry especially when thinner is substituted for reducer. As long as you sprayed the same paint over the first you shouldn't be getting a reaction.