1989 comanche mj

Has anyone bought new stock height leaf springs lately? I noticed one of my leafs was really bent up, like an S shape in front. I have about 7 inches of lift, stock leafs with a spring over in the rear. I'm surprised they have lasted as long as they have with 35s. I am not finding them anywhere, except at some obscure sites that I would have to call to see if they really exist. Not like cherokee where there are loads of them from dorman and the like.

Where or what does it plug into?

I am holding the end next to the seat belt for contrast. Not speakers unless the factory offered back door speakers I think.

Its on a 94 xj I just picked up. I pulled the interior out to weld in new floors, and am putting it back together. There is a wire coming off the wiring harness that runs along the floor boards on both sides with a 2 terminal plug pigtail right where the seatbelt retractors are. I can't remember what it went to, doesn't look like there is a spot on the seat belt retractor to plug it in. Anyone know? I am not talking about the pigtail that goes to the female end of the seatbelt on top of the tunnel.

I have rear discs, the zj prop valve with a single line back, stock mc and booster, got rid of the height valve and it works well with big tires.

I put all Moog parts on new to me jeeps, just put in for a 98 v8 zj. Will fit zj xj mj tj.

Great info, thanks! so 90 and up same calipers, just the mid 99 rotor and hub change. So the rotor has to match the hub or vice versa. I believe 2wd and 4wd rotors and calipers of the same type are interchangeable also, since I have scrapped 2wd xjs and after noticing newer rotors I swap the rotors calipers and pads over to keepers.

I have a dana 30 from a 99 xj, was going to use in my MJ, however the rotors are different. Non abs. Are the spindles rotors and calipers different than the earlier xj front axles? Are the axle shafts the same, interchangeable with my 92 mj?

Are there any good fitting factory style rocker panels out there? I want to go with a stock replacement and weld them on. I was looking at the Cherokee ones and they look like they would needs lots of mods and fab to get them to work. One of mine was fixed in the past with bent sheet metal and is terrible. 92 mj

I love the vintage stereo!

For the dash, you can cover it with vinyl and spray adhesive.

One side of my Comanche has a rocker repair, basically bent sheet metal bondoed on the rocker and welded underneath. Its horrible. I have to replace the rocker, can't patch over it like a rusted factory rocker. Are there any usable ones out there now?

Yes, with springovers in YJ and Comanche. I buy a set of ladder bars, and mount them, just one, as close to the pumpkin as possible, with bar stock and heilm joints at the front. Look at the kits for YJ and you can fab one up. Wheel hop is gone.

My MJ needs rockers. The aftermarket ones are way off. I have a 4 door xj, they look the same, but of course longer and different at the back. Will the xj ones work assuming some fabbing at the back?

Yes I still need them, please tell me how to pay. msrp77@yahoo.com

Autozone should rent you a slide hammer. I'm not sure what the center of a 3 jaw puller would rest on or how that would work.

I have the core ones with rubber bushings on my TJ and ZJ front and rear. They are stronger and heavier than the RE ones. I had RE ones, and one bent and they don't cover that. They don't cover the bushings either. I don't really know what they do cover on the warranty they say they have. Round control arms don't chew up tires where they rub at full lock. Comanches have a terrible turning radius as is, you can't reduce it without having to make huge u turns.

The cvs run smoother. But they shatter in a fantastic way. My 5.9 limited zj had them on the axles and front driveshaft. With just 245 75 16 all terrains and no locker or posi in the front i shattered the driver side. Replaced it with a u joint axle assembly then destroyed the pass side. It had full time 4x4 at the time with a 249 case. Huge pain to deal with out on the trail. I have all u joints now and a 242 case.

The cloyes chain sets are crap now, made in China. I ordered one for my 98 gmc truck when doing the cam, it had more slop than the stock chain with over 100k miles. They used to be great and tight as a drum. I would go to local parts houses bring sets home and whichever set has the least defliecton use.

Keep in mind a 8.8 rear has much thicker axle tubes which lifts it a good bit more than a dana 35. Mine was a dana 35 SOA initially. I used stock length shocks and welded the mounts to the axle, keeps them high and out of the way, not hanging down to grab stuff.

Use the felpro expensive valve cover gasket and be done with vc leaks.

I don't like the rear discs, because the parking brake is lousy. That little drum just is no good, and the new shoes you can get are crap. They fail quickly. Now if you have an auto trans and don't live on hills its no big deal. Drums are just fine IMO. Now if you swap to an 8.8 you gotta use discs unless you want to go with a weaker older rear. Also 8.8 and zj rear discs are identical except for the caliper. Use whatever pads are for the caliper you use. Jeep calipers will fit on the ford rear and vice versa.

Set the balancer nose down on a hot plate high temp wheel bearing grease on the seal. Have the balancer bolt ready, the balancer will go right on if you are quick with no risk of stripping out the main bolt thread.

Yes do the studs like Pete says, and always replace the slave and master on these internal ones and flush the line. They suck. I have never had a clutch wear out before the slave fails. And rinse out the master with new brake fluid, for some reason they new masters have metal filings floating around in the new fluid in them. (This might only apply to the TJ ones) I never drop the trans mount and seem to get the top bolts out fine with extensions and wobbles. And new pressure plate bolts with red locktite.

If you have vehicles that sit put rat traps and poison around. Those little bastards love to chew wires and build nests. Put the poison in a pvc tube so cats and coons can't get to it. Coons will eat all your poison and it won't kill them, gives them energy.