1989 comanche mj

up to 96 xj fits no issues. 97 and newer fits but you have to fab brackets. I have a 98 console with the lever parking brake from the 98. Best part is it has cup holders!

I did this swap and it was a huge pain. Did it for the same reason, I put in a 8.8 explorer rear with 410 and had a 410 front from a 86 with 2.8. I thought I would save $$ having to swap the gears. If I knew then what I know now I would have stuck with the old brakes. I didn't know the axles or unit bearings were different. However, I did stick the one that is not a 2 piece into my 98 zj and it worked fine. Also, I thought 99 and newer were the composite rotors.

OOH, very nice best colors. Probably the best year, no cracking heads, no low pinion, no coil packs.

The mechanism is trashed and I switched to a 97 console and hand parking brake so I want it out. I can't get the front bolt out. I unbolted the wiring feed down there, but still can't get that front bolt. What size is it? What wrench setup will work? I can feel it but can't see it.

You don't need the isolators, I don't like them cause they squich over time.

The carpet dash covers look stupid on these because of the wierd glove box. A upholstery shop can cover it with vinyl which looks real nice.

I am 6' 5" so I need the seats low and back. Over the years I have modified several seats. Cut the tracks down, weld on angle iron and drill new holes to bolt them down when they are where you want them.

Slipper perches (Thats what they are called on trailers) slider boxes are the way to go, they can handle the weight. Thats how most trailers are setup. But you will loose some articulation and it will ride rougher than a properly setup shackle. Lots of axle wrap if you remove the leaf. Could remove the leaf and do a traction bar. I had this issue with mine, put an 8.8 in with very low perches, still lifted it even with stock leafs. So I lifted the front.

Don't do anything to your welded freak axle. Put in a 8.25 from one of the donors is the easiest. Number 1 rule don't put any money in a dana 35. I put the Explorer rear axles in all my jeeps YJ ZJ and both MJ's and sell the existing axle before its blown up. Stock wheels with larger than stock tires will need spacers, but its only 1/2 inch narrower than the original axles. Yes the pinion offset is wrong but doesn't seem to be an issue. The axle to center tubes need to be welded by at least a semi pro welder.

OK it looks like the slave is the slip fit with roll pin. So the aftermarket braided line will work but with another adapter for the slave end. Looks like the slave is the same xj tj 93 to 06. I am not sure on the master but I would think the original would work IF you use the braided line. My internal unit failed internally. It didn't leak a drop anywhere. Terrible. Clutch was like new but I replaced it anyways.

I am 6' 5" and 260 and definately felt cramped in the first xj I bought for my wife many years ago. I have gotten used to it over the years but my MJ has no headliner. These have a lot more headroom than other midsize pickups. Get under your truck with a screwdriver and jam it up in all the holes in the frame and wheel wells. They get clogged inside and fill up with dirt. Replace all the rubber brake lines when you buy it. Change all the fluids when you buy it. Keep a spare belt and idler pulley in the truck with tools to change them. Grease the door pins often. Add a transmission cooler. Don't go quickly from drive to reverse. Make sure the axles are square front to back and the front one is centered. Don't pull the engine by attaching the chains to the exhaust manifold bolts!!! Don't waste money on a high flow water pump. Don't use platinum plugs. Don't use energy resource conserving oil. Don't expect most alignment shops to do a good job on anything that isn't at stock height. Your trucks at least 24 years old. Don't buy one unless you plan to work on it yourself or have money to burn. Buy a nice low mileage wrecked XJ when you find one and set the engine aside for a spare. I have a 98 XJ engine with 54k miles I got for free. Owner bought the truck wrecked. Had no where to work on it thanks to homeowners association. He said if i pull the front axle trans t case and bring it back to him I can keep the rest.

My 92 4 liter 4x4 5 speeds internal slave failed after a year. So I replaced it, and went with the metal cylinder and stainless line. But started looking for a external bellhousing because its a lot of work!. Today I bought a complete ax15 setup from a 99 XJ 4 liter 2wd. I am seeing 94 to 96 slave cylinders are the same, but 97 and up parts compatibility is different on different searches. What I know or believe so far is to use the 99 belhousing, fork, throw out brg and slave. Can I use my existing brake master cylinder and braided line? The slave end connected with npt and the cylinder end connected with the push in and tap in a roll pin setup.

I tried this and it didn't work correctly for me, I have a 8.8 rear with disc brakes. I went with a 4 wheel disc prop valve and ran a new line to the back and it works now. Got rid of all the factory rear lines. Those rear lines are usually pretty scary, I didn't trust mine.

Theres no air bag module on a 96 and no wiring for it. Just the bag. I am almost positive. I have a patient who was a restrained driver in a 94 Cherokee, head on collision at around 40 mph. Lost just about all her teeth on the wheel. I don't wanna look like that.

Thanks for the reply. The master didn't run dry. They are the original brake hoses, and I was thinking one of them may have internally collapsed. He had the diff apart 4 times and I finally had to go down and show him how to put the posi clutch plates in. He over stacked them, and couldn't get the c clips in. He was gonna grind the axle ends down. I think I will order new hoses. It has only 130k miles but is still old.

If they don't have the plastic sliders you can heat the leafs back section with a torch. I have done this before on a lowered half ton chevy truck. Do one side to the height you want, then carefully do the other side while frequently checking the measurement height. Have done it on coils too, not the ideal way. If you can find a shop that arches leafs they could de arch them, but I don't think these shops exist anymore.

I like this idea! I put stock ones in after doing the clutch and seeing the originals were trash. Did you squirt it in after torqing them down or before?

Not on my MJ, but on my 98 zj 5.9 with 4 wheel discs and ABS. I put an 8.8 in my ZJ, just wired the calipers up then dropped them down when I installed the rear so no air an no need to bleed the system. Yes, ZJ rear discs are the same as 8.8 ford. Only difference is the hole in the caliper for retaining the inner pad is smaller. The ABS feature doesn't work anymore and the light in the dash is on. Brakes worked fine, but I wanted more power... Had a moron put 456 gears in, he had the calipers hanging by the hoses. Not sure if that did anything or not. After a short drive I noticed the driver rear rotor smoking. I completely loosened the parking brake, that didn't fix it. So I swapped the caliper and bled the system. Now the rear brakes have some pressure on them. I noticed it when I tried to roll the truck in the garage in neutral. (I don't have a big garage so I keep it in neutral to push it back and forth) It was hard to push and I could hear it growling and the pads grabbing. Could this problem be caused by the brakes not being properly bled due to the ABS? Or the moron hanging the calipers by the hoses?

Are the MJ columns different than the same year XJ? Mine has a stupid grant wheel on it, and I tried to swap it over to another cherokee wheel I had sitting around, and noticed it sure does look identical to a GM column like my old Camaros have. I can't pull the 96 column out and try to swap them yet till I get it on the trailer to tow away to scrap.

Will the 96 xj complete column with air bag bolt and wire in to my 92 mj? I want to add an air bag to it. I figure I can disable it when I rarely go off road.

I got this off a 94 zj, is it worth swapping on my MJ? I can't figure out how to add pics, how do I?

I use adjustable control arms on all my jeeps, including my 5.9 zj with only 2 inches of lift. It gives you more tire clearance, more down travel, lets you get your front axle parallel to the rear axle and get the pinion and caster exact. Also reduces tire wear and lets you move the wheelbase to get more tire clearance. And you get new bushings. No fun putting bushings in stock arms. Its not as important for a dedicated off road truck.

I use less coolant also, 10 percent antifreeze 90 water. It never freezes here in Florida. When I go north I adjust coolant to the lowest temp for the area.

I towed a full sized Bronco 351 with 33 inch tires with a f150 6 cylinder from one state to another with a cheaper version of the Harbor freight bar. It went fine. The brakes of the tow dolly would be nice but the ride is better flat towing assuming the truck you are towing has good tires and alignment. As I got older I stopped doing stuff half assed and now tow with a 1 ton 454 truck and car trailer. Like other posts say, people do it all the time other ways but that doesn't always mean its the best way.

OK thanks. I didn't want to weld it on and find out there was a reason somebody cut it off in the past.