1989 comanche mj

No raised track bar mount on the axle, the other end of the track bar is the RE drop bracket and adjustable rod.

I have the steering linkages from a 94 zj v8 4x4. Will it directly bolt on to my 92 MJ- tie rod and pitman arm ends the same hole diameter and taper? I have been reading, and it goes back and forth about using just parts not the whole setup.

I am running the same tires and tire size on 15x10 wheels. But yours look taller, are they 8 inch wheels? What is the backspacing? I tried to read the wheel part number in the pics but couldn't. I have 5.5 lift with bushwacker cut out flares, 456 gears, the explorer rear, ax15.

My 92 Comanche has a 5.5 RE lift with the drop brackets, the RE control arms with the johnny joint on one end, Adj RE track bar and dropped pitman arm. I am guessing its 5.5. There are 2 inch spacers on top of the coils. It sits level. The rear is a spring over with stock springs and shackles. I put a Explorer rear in, with real low profile spring perches since I knew it would sit higher than the dana 35 that was in there. Stock steering linkages. For some reason the axle side steering dampner bracket is cut off. It has no dampner. I don't know why, I got it that way. Could it have been some clearance issue? I have another axle that I can cut the bracket off and weld it on mine, but don't want to bother if there may be an issue with stock dampners and interference. I didn't want to mess with an aftermarket dampner setup since it seems the brackets are weak and tend to bend, and didn't want to spend the money on one.

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I put a explorer rear axle in my 92 Comanche, and have some issues with the rear brakes. Currently there are 2 brake lines running back there, They meet in a 3 way T right above the axle with one line running down to the axle. I am guessing at some point a previous owner tossed the rear level valve. I tried plugging the line coming out of the front of the proportioning valve and attaching the single rear line to the rear axle, but did not get any fluid flow, and the pedal was hard as a rock. The brakes worked fine before all this, it had a dana with drum brakes. For now I have it back to the way it was, rear t line going to axle, but I don't like this setup. I am getting fluid flow. I haven't driven it, still working on exhaust and floors. My original plan was to get rid of the line running off the front of the proportioning valve by plugging it, and put the Jegs adjustable in line proportioning valve in the back so I could adjust the flow for loads and get it dialed in right. I do have a 4 wheel disc prop valve from a 98 zj but when I tried to swap it in I realized some of my brake lines are frozen and will strip if I try to back them out.

No air filter for more flow http://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/cto/5589356980.html

OK I replaced the master, bled and ran new fluid through, still can't shift into gear. I am guessing the slave is bad? I am thinking of changing out the clutch while I am in there, any brand I should use? I want to use the Advanced adapter braided line, does the one for same year Cherokee work?

I looked closely at the welds for the clutch rod on the pedal, they are all good and the plunger is good. No seepage of fluid behind the dash at the back or at the front, I don't see the line buldging anywhere when the pedal is pumped. The fluid looked old when I bought the truck, so I have changed it a few times with a turkey baster. I have also bled it until clear fluid comes out at the bottom. Resrvoir is full to a hair below the top. With the wife pumping I don't see any bubbles and no rising of falling of the fluid level. I have taken the rubber baffle thing out. Does that mean the clutch master is bad? I know on a brake master cylinder that fluid will spray out with the lid off. I have ordered a new master, the aluminum metal one in case it is bad.

I don't see any broken weld, the rod to the master cylinder moves in and out with pedal movement.

92 Comanche has the internal hydraulic cylinder 4 liter ax15. 4x4. Has been working fine. I get in to move it out and clean the floor, I have been putting pans in it. Push the clutch in, has normal resistance at the pedal but won't go in any gear when running. It will go in gear if the engine is off. If I start it in gear with the clutch pedal depressed it moves. The fluid is clean and was at normal level. I have bled it, and now the pedal has about 2 inches of free play. I haven't seen any leaks and the fluid was at normal level. Also, the two hydraulic lines coming out of the bellhousing can be wiggled around quite a bit, the rubber gasket is gone, don't know if this matters. What do I do next? Also what is the proper bleed procedure? Had the wife press and hold the pedal, I cracked the bleeder and fluid sprayed out. Did it a few times.

I have about a 5.5 inch lift on my Comanche, spring over with d35. Its a RE kit with longer shocks. The brackets and spring perches on there aren't equal, I think they bolted everything up and started welding. I don't have any confidence that the shock height was set right. I have my 8.8 regeared and ready to go in. Should I weld the perches on with the shocks in the middle of their travel at ride height? Or weld them on at full extension with the axle at max droop? I know the ideal way is with a fork lift measuring max up and down travel, but I don't have one, and don't have a way to flex it all the way up.

I have about a 5.5 inch lift on my Comanche, spring over with d35. Its a RE kit with longer shocks. The brackets and spring perches on there aren't equal, I think they bolted everything up and started welding. I don't have any confidence that the shock height was set right. I have my 8.8 regeared and ready to go in. Should I weld the perches on with the shocks in the middle of their travel at ride height? Or weld them on at full extension with the axle at max droop? I know the ideal way is with a fork lift measuring max up and down travel, but I don't have one, and don't have a way to flex it all the way up.

Not trying to be a smartazz, but it's pretty difficult to tell what your operating angle is by looking at it. Invest in an angle finder tool and measure it. Most u-joint mfg's recommend no more than ~8*, but you can probably get by for awhile up to 12* w/o vibrations. I have an angle finder, but could tell by looking that its not a severe angle, compared to my TJ, which has a 3 inch lift and no t case drop. I got adjustable rear control arms and set the pinion and output shaft parallel to each other and it does fine. How do you get the operating angle measurement? Difference between pinion plane and driveshaft? As far as setting driveshaft length, do I put the yoke halfway into the t case at ride height then measure to get the length?

My wife hates helping me too, you can cut a section of 2x4 brace between the pedal and steering wheel so it holds the clutch pedal down, then creep under and crack the bleeder, pump it some more and repeat.

It is not a disc count, it is a measurement, like 635 to 655 max, thats what it is on a 8.8 explorer. You shim it next to the steels not next to the friction discs. But the disc friction plate order has to be followed, you don't want the friction in direct contact with the outer or inner ends of the stack. The shims can be hard to find so I have used 1 worn original one and 1 new one included in the kit to get to the max tolerance. And soak the friction discs in modifier overnight after you get your measurements.

There will be a min max for the trac loc clutch stack. I don't know what it is. I think they are pretty crappy and would go with a true trac or locker. I had one in my tj dana 44 lucky option. It wasn't working so I rebuilt the clutch pack and set at max tolerance. Then it started eating up the spider gears and just went with a detroit locker. Just 33 inch tires, and not rock crawling or any serious off road stuff. And don't use synthetic lube, it will leak. I put new axles and seals in mine, all timken, and the synthetic 85 140 came right out the seal.

Sit there with the key turned to start for a bit, then feel the battery cable. If its warm the cable could be bad or a bad ground. Use jumper cables to do a good ground from battery to engine. Jump the starter solenoid with a screwdriver to see if that gets it to start, if so it could be the ignition switch. Turn on your headlights and see if they are good and bright, or check voltate at the battery. Check voltage at the battery while someone turns the key to run, if it drops a lot it could be the battery or cables. Hit the starter with a hammer a few times. A bad engine ground could keep the starter from working but be adequate for the ignition. I had a cherokee that had a bad alternator and wouldn't run.

On the interlock cable just pull it down to get the column to work and tie strap it in place.

That is not as bad as mine. Before you do any cutting get replacement pans and set them on top. Draw around them with a marker, and cut the rusted metal away leaving a good border for the new ones to overlap. It is a lot of fitting cutting and hammering to get it right. Once you get them to fit ok, you can hold them down with self drilling screws and have someone else weld them in. All the labor is in the fitting, the welding part is quick. You spot weld which is put your mig tip right near the seam then weld until you get a bead that holds both parts together. Do these about 8 inches apart, and switch spots, you don't want to build up heat, thin metal warps. then go around again and put more spots in between. I am happy if I get a spot weld about every 4 or 5 inches. Spot welding can be through a drilled hole, or a hole clear through. It can also be done with a spot welder, it looks like a big vice grip unit, it clamps the metal together and runs current through both sides to melt the metal together. This is the way most of the jeep body is built. I put my pans in with self drilling screws. Once I get the perimeter spot welded, I will pull out the screws one at a time then stick the mig wire right in the center to fill the hole and weld both pieces together.

Yes, but how did you determine at what length to weld the mounts on?

I ended up ordering the Key panels, I found out that the c2c panels are now 19 gauge, thats thin stuff.

I am putting an explorer rear in my 92 Comanche with a existing spring over lift, They are RE shocks. It was their 5.5 lift kit, so the shocks are probably close to the right length. I know the right way is with a forklift measuring max up and down travel and picking a shock that works, but I want to use what I have, and don't have a fork lift. Can I jack the truck up by the frame, let the rear axle droop as far down as the leafs allow and weld the spring perches on with the shocks at full extension? Or put the shock in mid travel and weld it on at ride height? This is how I did muscle cars, but they don't have much travel.

92 mj 4liter 5 speed 4x4 short bed My 92 has a spring over in the rear, RE kit in the front with dropped control arm mounts, and spacers, I guess about 5.5 inch lift. It has a transfer case drop on it, but I am not sure its necessary, the rear doesn't look like a severe angle to me. I am planning to get longer drive shafts, the front is wobbly at the slip joint, and the rear will probably be a bit short with the 8.8 I am putting in there. Will a front shaft from a auto trans truck work? I used one on my other Comanche but had it cut down a bit. I am not sure how much longer it is, but its longer. I have a 2wd shaft I was going to have shortened for the rear.

I am getting ready to swap a explorer rear into my 92 Comanche, changed to 456 gears and put new seals and bearings in there. Problem is, my truck had a spring over conversion at some point in the past, and I see the remnants of the original bottom mounts and they don't match up to what they welded on top! One looks a little to the left, one to the right, I think it was all eye balled. Can someone tell me the leaf spring center pin hole to pin hole width so I can get the new one in there square? I know its tough to measure with the diff in the way in the middle.