1989 comanche mj

Oddly enough it had 4 hole injectors in it, ford yellow ones all seem to be different. I cleaned a stock set from a 90 xj and am waiting on the o rings and basket kit to put them in. I have done all your ground add ons and it seemed to help a good bit. My 90 comanche with 4 liter runs great. It came with an 8 gauge wire from the battery negative to the 15mm bolt on the ground strap at the back of the engine. Some mechanic must have done it in the past to it.

The neon 703s I have been reading for hours on the internet about these, and they are either great or terrible. Then I read they are ok for 96 and back, but no good for 97 and newer because of the higher pressure. Are they a good upgrade, or just money that could be spent elsewhere? My 92 has all new exhaust from the header back, no leaks all welded mandrel bent 2 1/4 with a new ntk? factory o2 sensor. I have read that increased exhaust flow can cause a lean condition. Also all new cap rotor taylor wires and factory plugs. I have also been reading about putting on a different regulator, pr211 to increase pressure a little. Any sense in that? It seems the 92 mj runs at 31 to 39psi WOT where my 97 4 liter tj runs at 49psi constant. I am guessing there must be a reason the factory kept increasing pressure over the years. My 89 mj 4 liter has an assortment of yelllow ford injectors in it, all with different part numbers. They are 4 hole ones, I know because I cleaned them. One was sealed with a big glob of silicone instead of an o ring. On this I am putting in 90 stock injectors just to rule out other problems it may develop.

It was the stupid rubber hose, had a tear in the bend. Nice $1 fix! But now I have an injector spraying everywhere.

My new to me 89 4 liter 5 speed has only 20psi, same with vac line to regulator on or off. I changed the fuel filter and blew the line out from fuel rail back, no change. I am running 12 volts direct to the fuel pump. (The pump wasn't coming on on its own. Tried jumping the resistor) It runs terrible but ran great while I was running a can of injector cleaner through at 28psi with the supply line crimped off. I found a receipt for an airtex e7006 fuel pump in the glovebox from 2011. The part number says its correct. Also, the pressure goes to zero right away when the pump shuts off. Are the renix trucks supposed to maintain pressure when off? I ohms checked the injectors, they are all the same.

Oh it barely runs, has no power won't rev much above idle. I did manage to drive it home. I just bought it and am going through its issues. I hooked up my fuel injection flush and before I could get it started the can ran dry. I guess it went back up the supply or return line, not sure. Never had that happen before. There is a recent receipt in the glovebox for a fuel pump.

89 4 liter 5 speed. Has 20 to 22 psi running with the regulator hose on and off. Pressure drops immediately to 0 when shut off. I pinched off the rear fuel line while running and it dies. Checked with 2 different gauges. Is the rear rubber line the return or supply? I assumed it was the return since it was rubber and the front line into the regulator is steel. I read pressure should be 30 and 39 with vaccuum line off, so something is wrong. What pump should I get? I don't see them for sale.

I just got a new to me 89 4 liter comanche, had the 134 low side fitting on the compressor. Had a burst hose. I was not familiar with these valves on the back of the compressor. They are exactly like valves on home HVAC. I replaced the hose and put some uv oil in it. I turned the low side valve all the way in and hooked it up to vaccuum, and ran it for an hour. It held a full vaccuum, so I went to dump refrigerant in there. It didn't take much, I started it up and it immediately ran into a vaccuum. After messing around a bit I realized that the valve needs to be turned in midway to charge and have refrigerant flow. My question is, did I successfully vaccuum down the system, or just pull a vaccuum on the low side internals of the compressor? Basically, could the vaccuum have been pulled through the low side of the compressor over to the high side and through the rest of the system? I have charged lots of cars with messed up high side valves, and did all the service through the low side, however I am thinking that the vaccuum did not go through the compressor, and that I have air and possibly moisture in there and need to start over with the valve mid way. Also, what size is the high side, 3/8? I would like to get a 134 fitting for it also. I was able to get about 30 degrees below ambient out the vents, not great but probably undercharged somewhat, and is an unknown system to me. Wanted to let it sit a few days to see if it had any leaks, or see if another hose bursts before I go fine tuning the charge.

I tried the battery hold down bolts, they aren't long enough. I am in Florida

I need the two long bolts that hold the gas tank up. Mine is in there with some wimpy carriage bolts. Also need a working sending unit and a blue back tach gauge cluster. For my 89 4 liter. Also need a good shifter boot for a 97 98 xj with console and 5 speed manual trans.

I picked up a 89 Comanche with the non tach cluster, what years could I substitute to get one with a tach? It is a 4 liter 5 speed 4x4. I have one from a 96 cherokee 4 liter but am thinking it won't work? Also, do I have to change the wiring to get the tach to work? I'm guessing I have to change the oil and coolant sensors.

I put 96 xj ac on my 92 mj but it had factory ac. It all swapped over except the high low plugs were different, I cut and swapped the wires.

OK what pressure should I run? And what does siping or studding cost? My tires are studable. Keep in mind I am in Florida, can't get siping or studding here. I usually encounter 3 days of snow when I am up there, not worth it to change tires. And I need the mud tires for the trails.

I don't like Moog anymore either. Dust boots just rot away in months. Put a moog tie rod on my truck, put the cheepo store brand on the other end because they were out of moog. The moog boot rotted away. I go with all spicer stuff now.

Figure out the rotation of the water pump by looking at the old one. Also, never add coolant after completing a cooling system repair. Just use water until you know everything is ok. I have wasted lots of the stuff this way. I also check the thermostat by taking it out and dunking it in boiling water. They don't always work, even when new.

Put them above the injectors and intake since thats the hottest place.

I would use the advance adapters stainless braided line and conversion fittings. I have a YJ with 383, went with the hooker custom headers that exit to the rear like manifolds but have a 7004 transmission.

One of mine was broken, I have a spring over lift. I moved the shock mounts on the axle up and used shorter shocks and it seems fine.

I tow my TJ up north to North Carolina every winter and rent a cabin and cruise around. (I don't take my MJ because the turning radius is no good on the tight dead end trails) And the TJ has a full cage and more interior room. I drive all over in the snow and didn't have problems in the past, the roads were empty. But last year they were packed, snow and ice came in heavy around rush hour. I was sliding all over and went off the road several times. The Jeep has a powertrax in the front, true trac in the back 456 gears and 33 mud tires. 5 speed 4 liter. I am pretty sure the locker in the front was causing it to slide all over. I tried lowering air pressure in the tires with uncertian results. I only used 2 wheel drive. In the past with just a posi in the rear it seemed to do ok or better than now. Will lower air pressure help? How about tire siping, and does anyone do it anymore?

The TJ one is a close enough fit, you have to re drill the holes.

It will probably need clutches, my 97 TJ did at less than 100k miles. Then the spider gears started chipping. With only 33 inch tires. I went with a truetrac differential. Its a weak carrier with tires larger than 31 inches. Yes my TJ came with a factory 44.

I would go with 456 front and rear, or do it cheap with a used 331 gear set. But, something probably happened with the pinion to strip the teeth like that.

Mine was worse also, and I had to bend up some metal because the aftermarket replacements didn't extend far enough. The pans are difficult on these, you can't get the correct ones, so you have to make due with cherokee ones.

The heater control valve, 92 4 liter. Under the hood just next to the firewall. Should it be up when the AC is on, or down? I am talking about the little lever, next to the vaccuum hose on top. I may have damaged the vaccuum lines when heating the metering valve to get the lines off. Also do I need to have the vaccuum can thats under the bumper? I just put the complete ac system from a 96 on mine, its cold but the ac blows out the defrost. The air came out the vents initially, then I put the heat on to purge the lines and change the coolant, now it only comes out the defrost. I don't have the vaccuum can behind the bumper, it was deleted at some point and plugge.

For my 92. I have done searches, found part numbers, and all the online mopar parts places say they are no longer available. Can I buy them new somewhere? Mine work but not great, like most. And of course the junkyard ones are about the same or worse.

Head gasket is real easy on these. The head really should be decked, and look close at the block deck. If it has a crack or little valley it has to be welded and decked also. You can use a thick composition head gasket and hope for the best with no machine work.