1989 comanche mj

I am disgusted with Moog also, quality is crap and there is no warranty on it. My truck got hit and it busted 2 tie rods. Happened right at an advance auto parts parking lot. I bought one moog and one store brand because they didn't have moog for it. Borrowed a pickle fork and changed them in the lot, 11 degrees out. The moog rubber boot rotted away in 5 months! The other one is great. AC Delco is just using their name to push chinese stuff. Felpro is good but also china made. Cloyes is absolute junk. Used to be the best for a timing chain. I bought one for my 98 gmc 454. Truck only has 110k miles on it with a roller cam, great maintainence but 3 cam lobes went out! Turns out chevy wasn't hardening testing the cams. Put the cloyes chain on and it had more slop than my old factory one! And I waited a week for it to come direct from Cloyes. This truck cam change was a disaster. 15 hour job. Pan had to come off,axle had to come down. I wouldn't pay $300 for a new chevy stock cam and wouldn't buy an aftermarket cam because they are questionable, so I put in a 260k mile used one that looked new. I searched and paid $$ for brand name roller lifters that were supposed to be hardness tested. They came unlabeled and who knows who made them. Bought the ac delco factory gasket set, it was china made lower than felpro quality. Timken is questionable, they merged with everyone and are globally made, aka china. I think koyo japan made bearings are great. Dorman is crap. Bought one of their clock springs, air bag light comes on all the time. No customer service. All firestone tires are crap and dangerous IMO. Firestone tires have killed more people than all other tire manufactures combined. I really believe most parts are made by the same chinese factory then badged and marked up. So i buy the cheapest I can find. At least if they fail I won't be as pissed as if I had bought a timken or moog one. (Since they offer no warranty) I needed a cps for my tracker. Dealer factory one was almost $100. Looked at it at the dealer next to a $7 one I bought on Ebay. Identical part number and casting flash. So I carry a spare cheap one and a 10mm wrench. I have used spare computers for all my jeeps that have one, small enough to carry and easy to swap. Also carry cps map and the one under the distributor. My US made Bart super trucker wheels, actually one of the few wheels that is factory rated for 35 or bigger tires, are way out of round. Clevite rubber bushings still seem good.

No orifice to yank like on a chevy. The ac systems on our trucks works fine converted to 134. Its the same system that cools down an entire cherokee. I would sell the r12 cans, with the cash you could buy 30lbs of 134 and a gauge set. But if you insist on using the 12 bring a propane torch and heat the cans while charging to get every last bit out. I'm not a fan of the frig 12, its just propane and a little isobutane or similiar, but way expensive. It does work real good though. Super flammable. Cruising along smoking and the evaporator springs a leak could be an issue. But I would use it in my old chevys which just don't get cold with 134 no matter what you do. You could charge with propane first to make sure the system is working before putting r12 in. You have to make sure the junkyard compressor works.

That u bolt plate is great! Nice looking spring stack too. Where can I get the plate, for an 8.8 ford rear? The sliders are super nice also, probably cut down on rear steer but look pricey.

Yep aw4 is way better than all the chrysler made trannys. Chrysler still doesn't make good trannys.

The flat stock from bumper to shackle is not stock, and yes the shackles are on backwards. Thats the good axle but a terrible ratio. I think the carrier change is up to 355. I went with the detroit true track, the one with worm gears inside, works great. The factory trac lock is weak the spiders teeth crack off.

I have soa on two trucks. On the comanche with flush spring perches and stock old leafs on an 8.8 ford rear it took 5.5 springs up front with 1 3/4 spacers on top to be slightly nose down. And took 35 inch tires to make it look ok, 33s were too small. Don't ever invest money on a dana 35 including putting new springs on it. They are junk. Just put an 8 1/4 rear in if you want to do it cheap. Buy the correct width perches mentioned above then cut them, the c section, so they sit right on top of the axle to minimize lift.

I cut a section from a donor cherokee that had the seatbelt nut attached and welded it over where the original should be. But that bolt may back out if you heat it till it glows.

Does my 90 comanche have a speedo cable or is it electrical? Is it the short or long gear in the transfer case? I went from 308 stock gears to 410 with 31 inch tires on stock turbine wheels and want to get the speedo correct or colse.

Whatever compressor you are gonna use turn it upside down, put clean oil correct for the system in, then grab the clutch and spin it over until all the oil comes out clean. Repeat until clean oil comes out. You want to flush it out. Then put the correct oil in it and bolt it in right away and run vaccuum for 45 minutes. I never put r12 in a questionable system, its too expensive. Put in 134 or a cheap r12 substitute and see it it holds and works for a week, then switch over. On my 92 I just went with all 96 xj parts from the firewall out, its factory 134. R12 hoses will leak 134 right through the rubber. Not a lot but enough to need to top off yearly.

If the heater core is clogged externally like with leaves twigs and debris that will lower heat flow also. And if your blower motor isn't getting full voltage or the motor is tired.

If the lock up isn't working that would cause the increase in temps at highway speeds.

Cruiser54, On my 92 with the disc explorer rear I eliminated the height valve in the rear and ran a single new line back. Along with the 98zj 4 wheel disc prop valve. It stops good, but has 35 inch tires on steel wheels so it could probably stop better.

The manual trans 4 liters are terribly geared. Letting the clutch out with stock tires is like you are strapped to something. One of mine has the factory turbine wheels like above with 31.s and 410 gears, with explorer rear and its good. 1 3/4 spacer up front with trimming, add a leaf and shackles in the rear.

I have done several, on my yj and mjs, even put one in my zj. The MJ I cut and ground down aftermarket mounts so they sit on top of the 8.8 axle. As low as you can go. I even yanked out the factory bottom leaf. Even with the stock original springs my front axle has 5.5 springs and 1 3/4 spacers to put it slightly nose down. Looked dorky with 33s so I put on 35s. Another MJ I have I did spring under, and had to use a add a leaf and shackles to just get it high enough to match the front with 1 3/4 inch spacers.

The complete exhaust is easy to do on these yourself. I fit them, clamp them then drop them down and fully weld and reinstall. Don't reuse the converter, if its full still sell it ($30) and buy an aftermarket one. The factory one will fail and clog the muffler eventually.

I carry spare idler pullies for all the cars in my fleet, in the car. Had one go, mangle the belt which grabbed the AC clutch wires and ripped them out of the compressor. That sucked. I also carry a 3/4 to 5/8 brass fitting to bypass the heater core in case it fails badly somewhere.

I recently bought my 3rd MJ, a nice 89 5 speed 4 liter 4x4 buckets ac, no rust except the pass front pan. Super cheap, $1300 cause it barely ran and very little electrical worked. Guy I bought it from had a degree in mechanical engineering or something, had all the wiring diagrams and service manuals for the truck and couldn't get it to run right or the electrical to work. Most of this I fixed by reading this board. Barely ran cause the in tank fuel line had a hole. Free fix Electrical=all fixed by adding and cleaning grounds. Free too. ac didn't work-leak at a hose end, cut off and hose clamped on. Free Ran hot-fan relay was bad. Free had one laying around. Muffler clogged $30 for new muffler.

The spring loaded ones don't work, when you push them against the glass the spring breaks and does nothing. I had bought these for my wife, mom, mother in law, ect. We are near water and drive over it daily. All their cars have power windows, which break all the time and I have to fix them. One is a Liberty, that thing has a terrible system, strips out at least one door a year. Let me tell you how tough window glass can be. I took that cherokee shown to the scrapper up on jack stands, because I kept the axles. Guy pulls up with the fork lift and goes to run the forks right through the glass. The glass didn't break, and he knocked it off the jack stands and onto my trailer wheels! I know the best way to break glass, just try to remove it to reuse!

The instructions say hit the edges. Its the area with the highest tension. Same with any sheet tempered glass, the middle has some flex, the edges have the tension. I went and dug out my centerpunch to give to my wife to try, and it was broke! Made in China. I gave up, said just shoot out the window, that will break it. What gets me is these things have thousands of 5 star reviews, from people who have never tested them.

Glass is the same on either side, but the inside would be tougher with the tint. They advertise them for Parametics and first responders too, to get in and help an unconscious person get out. After my wife couldn't get it to work I wailed on it, hitting all the remaining glass in the truck and did nothing but dull the tip until the tool plastic handle broke.

Cruiser54, you have a explorer 8.8 disc rear in one of your trucks? I have swapped these rears into 6 trucks and the brakes always work better with the 4 wheel disc prop valve.

I have one in every car, have a cherokee ready to go to scrap, decided to have my wife try it so she would be comfortable in an emergency. Big suprise! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92MRFaDnzm8

I wanted to throw up some pics of my trucks, how do I do it?

Ive done the searches and read the write ups. I have a 96 xj parts truck and grabbed the booster spacer master cylinder and prop valve. The spacer is aluminum by the way, I know there was some discussion about it. My questions are (Application will be my 92 comanche) Does the pedal end need to be modified shaped or ground? I saw on the writeup he did, but not sure if he was using a different rod. Are the lines from the master cylinder into the prop valve bubble flared or standard flared? I read they were bubble flared at the mc, but not sure about downstream. I am using the prop valve from a 98 grand cherokee with 4 wheel discs, because I have the ford rear in there. It works great. Also, does anyone know if this booster will work on a 94 YJ? My wrangler has the ford rear also, and the brakes are terrible on it. It doesn't have the 4 wheel disc prop valve though. Also, how can I post pictures?

Fortunately I don't have emission testing here. I ordered the 703s off ebay for $103. It takes 3 revolutions before it starts: Turn the key to start and it goes wob wob wob then starts. Has a new tank fuel pump and I cleaned the original injectors. Pressure stays at the rail after shut off and has 31 39psi. I decided against them for my 97 TJ because it starts quick, and doesn't have a fuel filter. I figure those 4 little holes would clog quick with just a sock in the tank and no real filter. Terrible cheap skates not putting a fuel filter on an off road truck!