schardein

OK, I've searched the site for hours on end, and want to ask a question specific to my situation. 1991 MJ shortbed, 4.0, auto, 2wd. I plan to convert to 4wd. Already have the rear D44 and front high pinion non-cad D30. Rear will get 3.73s to match the front. Already have NP242. Only missing piece is transmission, rear driveshaft and some odds/ends. I want to run a 30x9.50/15 tire (or something close in metric). I don't plan to do any serious off roading, I have CJs for that. But if I do, I don't want them to rub. I think I need some lift to run the 30" tires. I don't want it to be any taller than necessary. Level stance preferred, or slight rake is ok. What are some recommendations for front/rear springs? I am considering the General Spring 1700lb capacity rear springs. I am thinking those will result in a higher ride than my 1991 2wd leafs. If that's a good choice, what is a good match for the front spring?

Terrawombat, I've noticed the same thing about Amazon. Also, I still use ebay. Those three sources account for the majority of my automotive parts purchases.

I'll chime in again. I personally maintain the vehicles in my signature line. It's my hobby and what I love to do. Finding the right part at a good price is my goal. 99% of the time, I am not in a hurry to get my parts, because I have another vehicle to drive if one breaks. Plus, I do regular preventative maintenance and I keep parts on hand for that. For me it makes sense to order oil filters by the case, and then I'll check for other parts (like wipers, or gaskets, or that brake job I know I'll need to do soon) that I know I will need and if they happen to ship from the same place, then I can save on shipping. That's how I save money on RockAuto. I've scored some major deals by selecting parts that shipped from the same location. If I am buying three things and they all ship from different places, then it's probably not a good deal. For the number of parts I've ordered versus the number of problems or wrong parts, RockAuto has been a good deal for me. Between RockAuto and Amazon, I haven't bought a part at a local auto parts store for a year and a half, when the XJ alternator died on the Interstate. I barely made it to an exit, parked at Mcdonald's, and walked to Napa. Changed it in the parking lot. Of course I had two spares at home, 10 hours away. To put this in perspective, over that last year and a half, I've mail ordered or junkyard sourced parts at least twice a month during that time. For guys who are buying a part for their only car, only buying one or two parts, and need them quickly, buying local probably makes more sense than using Rockauto.

I agree with you on what "OEM replacement" means. And giving it some more thought, I did order a replacement chrome grill for my 91 XJ, and the one I received wasn't right. It was for the earlier XJ/MJ that uses a separate stainless steel trim piece above and below the grill. I was disappointed, but kept it and made it work. Since I had the stainless trim pieces, I trimmed them shorter to fit with the later headlight bezels, but still fill the gaps above and below the replacement grill. Now I wonder what their response would have been if I had wanted to return it. Perhaps I'm being to easy on them, but given the number of parts I've ordered, they still have a pretty good track record for me.

I remember seeing a comment in an automotive magazine that Chrysler should have badged the Dodge Power Wagon as a Jeep. It certainly would make sense based off its capability. Back in the day Jeep had a lot of different platforms. For a while, it seemed to me this might happen again. I suppose it did, but to me, the Compass, Patriot, and Liberty are pathetic additions to the lineup. I like that Jeep now offers two options in the JK, even if I don't like the looks of the 4 door, I've off-roaded with them and they earn the Jeep title. I'd really like to see a third option, something like a Wrangler but smaller. Because of that, my favorite concept from this year's group is the Shortcut: It should have had white wheels and a black windshield frame to link it to the early CJ5.

I use Rockauto extensively for my personal collection of vehicles. Only had one time that I returned a part. I received an order and the invoice listed a part, but it wasn't there. I filed a missing part request on their website immediately. I got a message saying the part was being sent. The next day, the missing part from the original order arrived in the mail. It had been separated from the rest of the order during shipping (it was a Jeep XJ/MJ exhaust intermediate pipe, fairly large item). The "replacement" part arrived 3 days later. I was given the option of keeping it (and being charged, standard price and apparently free shipping), or returning it, and they covered the return postage. If you are ordering lots of parts, and they ship from different warehouses, then shipping costs can become an issue. Best to shop around in that case, Amazon, local, etc. However, if your parts come from the same location, and sometimes you can choose a same but different brand part that will ship from the same location as other parts you are buying, then you can get some really good deals. If they sent you the wrong part, I suggest that you play hardball with them and refuse to pay the return shipping.

Sounds like the self adjusters were installed on the wrong side. If that is the case, I'd also check that the shoes were correctly installed. There is a difference. Primary shoe should be towards the front of the truck, secondary shoe on the rear. Secondary shoe has more brake lining on it. Shoes are referred to as "leading" and "trailing" in this diagram. Same as primary and secondary, which you will see in most automotive brake theory: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspension_Steering_Axles_and_Brakes/Drum_Brake_Service/Drum_Brake_Hardware_10_small.jpg

http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/jeep,1991,comanche,4.0l+l6,1181775,exhaust,exhaust+manifold,5860 Rockauto has a replacement manifold that says it is CARB approved for ~$130. (bottom one) I don't know what a factory header kit consists of, but if it is an exact replacement, then it will crack like ALL the factory 4.0 manifolds do from 1991 to 1999. In 2000 they changed to a 2 piece exhaust manifold which solved the problem. I've used two of the re-designed aftermarket manifolds like the one I linked above. I got both of them from the junkyard and they are still going strong. Every factory type manifold I have looked at in junkyards was cracked at the collector. When I replaced the one in my MJ, it was cracked on the outer tubes also. Factory manifolds are junk and should be replaced. Use the aftermarket type with the "bellows" on the outer tubes and it should be a one time expense. I don't know how mechanically savvy you are, but I can change out an exhaust manifold on a XJ/MJ in a Saturday afternoon. The 4 hours you have been quoted is about right. First time, it took me a little longer.

I deleted the power/comfort switch on both my 91 XJ and 91 MJ as described in Hornbrod's post. The difference in shift feel is small, but I prefer the power mode. For the XJ, I replaced the switch bezel with one from a 92+ XJ that still has the rear wiper switch but no power/comfort switch. On the MJ, I replaced the switch bezel with a flat plate for a "no switches" option that attaches directly to the dash panel rather than being screwed to the dash. Both appear factory and I don't miss the power/comfort switch.

As Hornbrod noted, most likely your turn signal switch inside the column broke, not the lever itself. It's likely this is the piece that is broke: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Help-49303-Turn-Signal-Cam-Jeep-/252247948495?hash=item3abb263ccf:g:o7kAAOSwYIhWlS13&vxp=mtr You can replace it by itself instead of the whole turn signal switch: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Turn-Signal-Switch-Lever-Assembly-Buick-Oldsmobile-American-Motors-Jeep-SUV-/331768559618?fits=Year%3A1991%7CMake%3AJeep%7CModel%3ACherokee&hash=item4d3ef27802:g:DyQAAOSwvUlWsJwi&vxp=mtr Those are just examples, I am not recommending those for purchase.

When you say you have delay wipers, are you basing that off the switch? Someone may have replaced the lever at some point with one that shows the delay function even though the vehicle wasn't equipped with it. The same is true for the cruise control. You can check for delay wipers by checking to see if it has the delay box under the dash. And if it isn't there, it's something that can be added, however adding the switch to the column is also required. The switch itself is not the turn signal lever. The switch is actually inside the column and the lever actuates it. The switch inside the column is a lot of work to change out and is expensive. You can check to see if you have cruise by looking in the engine compartment for the servo. No servo, no cruise. If you are not familiar with the servo, just look at the throttle body. If you have 2 cables going to it (manual trans) or 3 (auto trans) you have cruise. 1 cable (manual) or 2 cables (auto) and you do not. Oops, just noticed you have the 2.5, not sure if that applies. I was thinking of the 4.0 For the headlights, again the turn signal lever is only actuating the dimmer switch which is inside the column. My XJ was stuck on high beams when I bought it. By placing my finger near the very base of the turn lever (for best leverage), and deliberately pulling it back, I was able to get it to work. It was only stuck. Working it back and forth got it freed up and working normal. If you do have cruise and delay, this is the cheapest lever I found. It is currently in my MJ, which I added the other parts required to have cruise. It didn't have it from the factory. Also, I don't have delay wipers but the lever works anyway (on low/high, the delay function is there but doesn't do anything). I do have the delay wiper switch that goes inside the column, but they are pretty difficult to replace and I haven't tackled it yet. This is a good buy: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Cruise-Control-Windshield-Wiper-Arm-Lever-Switch-for-Chevy-Truck-Pontiac-/371109667956?hash=item5667dc2474:g:xbIAAOSwEeFU4y~o&vxp=mtr

I've got the relay cover for the pass side engine compartment. Unfortunately I don't have the two clips to secure it. If you are interested I could post/send pics.

Yep. The closest I came to buying a new Jeep was when they came out with the LJ Rubicon. In the end I built my CJ7. I like to watch what Jeep does and really like some of their concepts (Pork Chop & Stitch), but I doubt they will ever make something I will buy off the showroom floor.

The funny thing is, if they put a real effort at doing a retro Comanche, and came up with something that actually appealed to most of us in this forum... then the XJ crowd would demand an XJ version of it to replace that thing they are calling a Cherokee now.

Replaced everything from the Exhaust manifold back to the tailpipe on my XJ. I had to trim the converter where it mounted to the muffler and the tailpipe where it mounted to the muffler, I believe they were purposely built a little long for this purpose.

The only XJ D44 I've found was in an 87 Wagoneer.

I ran a set of Autopal housings for about 10 years in a K5 and then switched them to my CJ7. Had to replace them when I filled them up with water on a trail run and they rusted inside.

If someone decides to grab these at the p-n-p, check out the ad, fourth pic down shows how they are stamped "XV" at the end. Also says "Sylvania Performance" on the lens..

My research showed 96 and up had the 760. U-joint cap diameter is 1.18" vs 1.06" for the smaller u-joint. I decided that was to small to eyeball, so I bought a cheap harbor freight plastic digital measuring caliper to take to the pic-n-pull. Got a set out of a 96 XJ last weekend.

I run the XV on both my XJ and MJ. Improvement on what was originally there in both cases. I haven't done the harness upgrade yet (just completed battery cable upgrades on both and it is on the list to do). I got mine by pulling every headlight in the pic-n-pull. The XVs are ink stamped on the back... you guessed it "XV" and the silverstars "ST". Full size Fords and S10s are another source and plentiful in the pic-n-pulls. Sylvanias have "Sylvania" on the lens so you don't waste time pulling other brands. Also some say "Sylvania Performance" but can't remember if those are XV or ST. Two hours and I walked out with 6 XV lights for about $3-$5 a piece.

Power windows will not solve your problem if your windows currently do not go down all the way. You need to identify and solve that problem first. There are a number of threads about adding power windows to the Comanche, A simple search will bring up a number of them. Best thing for you to do is either search the internet for an add on power window kit for the 2 door Cherokee XJ or to find a Cherokee with power windows and salvage the parts from that truck. Several of us have done this, but it does take some electrical knowledge. I think that if the problem is the manual regulator, then switching to power windows would solve the problem. Because the regulators are getting replaced. I had a problem on my manual regulator, that if you rolled it all the way down, it would not go back up. This is due to the "beaded wire" (don't know the real name) inside the regulator being rusted/wore out. Not sure if the original post is referring to the same problem.

I also pulled a replacement from a junkyard Cherokee. I wonder if fronts interchange with rears? Then one XJ could get you 4. Depending on how close a pic-n-pull is to you, this is the best option. I would suggest pulling one of yours as a test run to know exactly what tools to bring. You will need a battery powered electric drill to get the rivets out on earlier trucks as mentioned above. I did mine a couple years ago and don't remember what all was involved. Another option would be converting to electric, I haven't researched it but I suspect it would be a major thing to retrofit all the wiring. Manual regulators slipped of my radar, I will be keeping my eyes peeled on future trips to the pic-n-pulls.

I found an 89 XJ at the pic-n-pull. The Engine computer had a reman sticker on it, looked like it had been spray painted black, and I couldn't find a part number on it anywhere. I passed. Good call?