schardein

If you are not "using" the EGR valve, then you can remove the vacuum lines from the fitting on the intake and cap the fitting off. Same if you aren't using the little door for the heated air intake. Capping off the unused lines won't affect how it runs (although deleting the EGR valve might). Once you delete the EGR and heated air intake hoses, it looks like you are left with the fuel pressure regulator connection at that vacuum fitting. You could swap the fitting for one with a single hose connection to clean things up, and not have to worry about a cap eventually dry rotting and falling off, causing a vacuum leak.

Very cool, thanks for looking this up for everyone. This means my tailgate dealer plaque is original!

Clean custom speaker install, but even better I see you still have the tire changing equipment and an upgraded hydraulic jack!

When switching to buckets, perhaps something that is overlooked is the rear cab carpet panel. I believe all MJs originally equipped with buckets had that carpet panel to dress up the rear cab wall. I didn't think about it until after the swap, then the hunt was on. I eventually found the part, but finding a gray one will probably be easier than a blue one. Not that it HAS to be done as part of a bench/bucket swap.

I have before-after videos of replacing the wiper bushings in my 91 XJ. They were worn and had a bad clunk when changing directions. I also greased all my pivot points with white lithium grease. Cured the clunk and ran smoother, but I don't notice any major differences in speed when looking at the videos. One thing I have noticed, wipers are noticeably faster when the windshield is wet (less drag). Maybe grab a hose and do a "wet test", maybe they aren't as bad as you think. I'm also a believer in Rainx. I clean my windshields with #000 steel wool, then with 'Invisible Glass' glass cleaner, then coat with Rainx. I also use the Rainx windshield fluid, it is better than the generic stuff.

You know there is a plus to having the most common interior color- gray - replacement parts are easiest to find! There is something to be said for that when talking about a 30+ year old truck.

I switched out my bench for buckets. No regrets. The buckets are more comfortable. My truck has the Cordovan interior. At first I was wishing it was tan or gray, but the cordovan grew on me. I mention this because blue is a relatively rare interior color so I could understand wanting to keep it. Maybe switch to gray buckets, but keep the rest of the interior blue and have the buckets reupholstered to match when the budget permits.

All great advice and info. But, while "tires can't cause death wobble" might be true in theory, strange things happen in real life. I put new tires on my 2000 XJ, cured the death wobble, drove the rig for another 3 years. No other maintenance on the front steering/suspension components. Was taking regular 6 hour interstate trips every other weekend in those days, and the Jeep handled/drove/steered/stopped fine. Tire replacement cured the death wobble. 1979 Chevy K5 Blazer, 3/4 ton axle swap, 5" lift, 35" gumbo monster mudder tires on aluminum rims. Death wobble so bad the tires were coming off the ground. Switched out to my old set of 33" Armstrong tires on the stock steel rims, no more death wobble. Replaced the pretty worn gumbos with new, and no death wobble. Interestingly enough, about a decade and a half later (with no death wobble during that time) I went to replace the ball joints on this K5 and found the top driver side ball joint was broken. As in BROKEN IN HALF. Believe it or not, it actually drove ok. I was four wheeling and a friend was videoing. I got the front tires off the ground on a pretty steep climb, and he said the driver front tire was "wobbling". I laughed it off until I saw the video. I know exactly when it broke too. I drove into a snow pile that I thought was powder but turned out to be solid. Heard the pop but couldn't find anything broken. Found it about 2 years later haha. And I can relate to the socks. Put on a pair this morning that I've had for 30 years.

I understand being on a budget. You might consider used tires if you have used tire sellers near you. Something less 6 years old would be an improvement over 12-13 year old tires. Even if you replaced just the front pair, it more than likely will cure the DW. I don't see if you are 2wd or 4wd, but if 4wd be sure to match tire sizes with the rear. If you can't replace them right away, pay careful attention to your tire pressures (don't forget to check the spare).

I've experienced DW on my 2000 XJ, any speed over 45mph + hit a bump and DW would commence and not stop until below 15mph. Installed a new track bar as the joint was questionable, and it pushed the speed up to about 55mph and didn't have to slow as much to recover. Put on new tires and problem completely went away. I don't know the history of your Comanche, but you said it got pulled out of the junkyard. How old are the tires? They are date stamped, google "tire date stamp" if you aren't familiar with how to read them. If they are over 6 years old, it might be a good idea to just go ahead and replace them. People in the RV and trailer world are well aware of the need to replace aged tires even if they still "look" good. Plus, several have already recommended tire balancing as a likely fix. I've experienced DW on two other vehicles, tire related in both cases.

If you are going the route of trying to refurbish a pair of OEM power mirrors, it might be worthwhile to investigate if newer motors from the 97-01 mirrors could be retrofitted to the 84-96 mirrors. Longhshot, but I've never opened up either style to look at motors.

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I've never had an issue getting them out. If it's stuck, I'm sure some heat would help. If you need the fitting in the top photo, I'm sure I have some spares.

I never got into scale railroad, but I grew up building scale plastic models. I built literally every 1/48 scale aircraft model Monogram produced, and had a room full of 1/35 scale armor from Tamiya and Testors. Some of the same skills cross over, minus the electrical. I still have a tackle box full of tools- knives, scrapers, brushes, files, wet&dry sandpaper, and several airbrushes. I get nostalgic thinking of the days you could go into Wal-mart and see a full row of scale plastic models, and the large display of small bottles of Testors and Pactra enamel paint, glue, and razor knives in the children's/Toys section. I have a small collection of the original Shep Paine pamphlets that came with the Monogram aircraft models in the late 70s. http://sheperdpaine.atspace.com

Do the aftermarket antennas come with the correct mounting pad and escutcheon? Or if buying an original, make sure it is included.

I understand a desire to retain the factory look. But I can tell you that after driving a 2000 XJ for a number of years with the larger mirror and no vent window bar blocking the view, going back to a 84-96 style is a noticeable downgrade from a functional standpoint.

I've owned an 89 XJ Wagoneer, 2000 XJ, and now a 91 XJ, all 4 door. I've rode in a couple 2 drs but never driven one. But I did own a K5 Blazer for over 32 years, which in my opinion is kind of the same thing- really cool, especially for a young single guy, but not very practical for hauling around more then two people. But, my experience with 4 door XJs tells me that they aren't the best platform for hauling 4 adults around either. On a longer trip, it feels crowded, and inside cargo space for 4 adults is limited. I owned a Chevy K20 pickup before getting the Blazer, and loved the added interior space. If you like your MJ, I think you'll like a 2dr XJ for the same reasons.

That's exactly what I did to end up with my buckets. Seat frames from a 2dr XJ, headrests from another XJ, 2 upper fabrics and one lower from another, and the driver bottom from a 4th.

Just be aware that MJ bucket seats and 2 door XJ bucket seats have the fold forward feature. 4 door XJ front seats do not fold forward.

I'm not sure I understand what you want, but maybe this is an option- get mirrors off a 97-01 XJ. They are a different shape which might not be good if you are trying to stay original. But they are available, finding late model XJs in the JY isn't hard. Get some power mirrors, and just tuck the wires back into the mirror or cut them off. You can still adjust the actual mirror glass by hand. While this is a fairly common swap, I've found that few mention the need to pull the outer window trim off and slightly modify it to let the mirror sit flush on the door. I had to do that on my XJ and MJ, but perhaps in varies from one vehicle to the next. On my XJ, I was able to adapt the slightly different wiring to work with the factory XJ power adjust mirror switch.

Is it 'jogging' or 'yogging'? it might be a soft J. Sorry, couldn't help it, first thing that came to mind.

I bought this impact after getting a look at Pete's . Yesterday, a friend and I were changing the motor mounts in his 2004 Duramax, and snapped a 10mm (15mm wrench size) bolt on the medium setting. It was clean with no rust, but the factory loctite was fighting us all the way out. We did the rest by hand and the broken half came out easily after a little heat was applied. I also own the drill, 1/4 impact driver, 3/8 impact, and sawzall, all 20v max brushless. And a 12v brushless 1/4 impact driver. I also recently grabbed a HF Earthquake XT 12v ratchet. I got the brushless 1/4" 20v impact driver around 2010 on a whim, and it ended up a game changer for me. I consider my air tools mostly obsolete. I've heard the good things about Milwaukee, and knowing what I know now, would go that route. As it was, I already had the driver, then the drill (used), then fell into the sawzall for free, then saw Pete's 1/2" impact... so I'm pretty much invested in Dewalt at this point, with no regrets.

The shift indicator is pretty low tech. The red indicator is spring loaded to hold it at park (or close to it). A thin cable runs out the bottom of the instrument cluster. There is a clip on the end of the cable that attaches to the lower edge of the steering column. When you move the shifter to engage a gear, it pulls the cable, which pulls the indicator. Adjust the indicator be adjusting where the clip is on the column. Hopefully these pics help.

They appear to be, you might want to look a little closer to see if all the factory parts are there. If they were added by a previous owner, it's possible not all the correct reinforcement and mounting brackets were added. All the factory hooks I have seen were chrome plated and marked with a 10,000 lb rating.

I just did some searching on Rockauto. Of the front bearing hubs that listed specs, they all listed a wheel pilot diameter of 71.4mm (or 2.81"). This was looking at a 2003 4cyl. This was for both with or without antilock brakes. Where did you get the 67mm wheel pilot info?