jpnjim

I just posted this in another thread: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=25639 You could be the first to try it out. ;) Plus, I've seen these axle go for less than what a pair of spacers would cost. :wavey:

Welcome to the board. :waving: I was going to start a thread on this, but a good axle swap, to widen up our rear axles, and give *near* D 60 strength in one of those 'stop sign' 9.25's out of a 1980's Ramcharger/D150. They were 5 on 4.5" for those years (I *think* it was 1975.5 to 1980something, but I'll try to dig out the info), and it seems like they were around 64" wide. That's like adding 2" spacers, AND getting a much stronger rear axle. They do use C-clips, but they use the same brake/axle end pattern as Mopar/Jeep 8.25's, so disc brake swaps should be just as easy. (disc brakes will usually keep the wheel from sliding out when you break an axleshaft, helping to band-aid one of the problems with C-clip axles). I was thinking about this the other day (for the Grandpa Jeep), and wondering why no one else here has tried it. Those axles are completely undesired by the full size crowd (because of the 5 on 4.5" bolt pattern), underrated for their size, and 'falling out of tree's' cheap.

The guy who posted that could've atleast used a picture of the newer Military J8 (or whatever they're calling it), instead of blowing the dust off a 6+ year old factory teaser pic. It would be nice if he was right (offering a 2012 Jeep Truck to *celebrate* the 20th anniversary of killing them off in 92'), but if he had info like that, you'd think he'd know where to find pics of the modern (military) version they are already making.

I don't know why they won't tear a page out of the Scout/Bobtail Bronco/Jeep Scrambler playbook, and expand the JK line with a 1/2 cab *truck*, but someone at Jeep must really hate the idea of Jeep dealers selling trucks, because we're almost at 20 years without one. :( Even Hummer recognized that there's a market for SUT's, If Jeep came out with a bare bones, 2dr/LWB/half cab JK, with Rubi axles, they would not be able to keep up with demand. Same goes for a V8 JK. No legitimate reason on Earth to NOT make it.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: Thanks for the update. :typing: :waving: Cool to have a 'Movie Star' here. :yes: Now if we could just get Halle Berry and her MJ to stop by :drool: .

How much for the cargo light & switch? :brows: (hitch and rear leafs should go fast as well :yes: ) :thumbsup:

The town is twisting the law a little: Federal EPA rules changed on April 22, 2010: http://www.epa.gov/lead/pubs/renovation.htm But the rules are specifically for CONTRACTORS (not homeowners): Looks like they changed the cutoff year too (from 78' to 76'). Edit, rental property owners do not get this 'homeowner exemption', and they do have to meet the same conditions as a contractor working on the home:

I'd also cross my fingers that the three lifters end up in the right holes. Lots of people are having problems wiping out cams, swapping lifters from one hole to the next on a used cam is almost a sure fire way to wipe out a lobe. You could treat this build like you were breaking in a new cam (lots of cam lube on those 3, and keep the RPM's between 2000 to 3000 rpm for the first 20 minutes you start it), but I'd think about just swapping in the TJ cam if you know exactly which lifter goes with which lobe for that cam. Even better would be a used cam (with matching lifters) from an 87-95 4.0L, since that was a bigger cam anyway (they downsized the 4.0L's cam in 1996). Either way, good luck. :cheers:

When I made an MJ bed trailer, I registered it as home made (in Mass). I had the receipt for the hitch parts, supports, bracing, etc, and that was good enough to prove I built it. To answer the question, I don't believe there's a VIN on the rear of the frame.

Every 4.0L I've stripped down has needed rod bearings (copper showing). Maybe I just hit a string of bad ones, but that includes an 80,000 ish 4.0L that I was expecting much less wear from. As far as balance goes, you should be fine (assuming pistons go back in order). Are you building this into a 91-95 style HO, or are you gonna stay Renix? You were talking about using the horseshoe intake, so I guess you're gonna build an HO to work with your Renix stuff? Out of everything you're reusing, I'd concern myself with the rings & bearings most. The rings, because if you're going to the trouble of doing the HO upgrade for 10-25HP (assuming horse shoe intake), but risk losing more than that to bad ring seal. The rod bearings because of what I've found in my 4.0L's, and the main bearings because you're swapping them into a new/different block (probably be OK, but would still be a new variable). The last things I'd wonder/worry about are: how are the cam bearings in the '01 XJ block (since those would be staying), and how is the cam in the 00' TJ engine? Of course keep the lifters in order (I know you probably know that, but it can't be said enough). Oh, and I would replace the timing chain, even if I was gonna re-use the old oil. :yes:

Ancient-XJ history lesson (according to my bad memory anyway): Rancho 3" coils, boxed, stock length LCA's, shocks & AAL's was the first name brand XJ lift, closely followed by Trailmaster's 4" kit, that used the control arm drop brackets. The first round LCA's i can remember were Pro-Comp's a few years later (for their 3" kit), they were bent, with a reinforcing plate (with maybe 3 'speed' holes in it). Tompken Machine was out around that time, with a 4" kit, closely followed by a 6" (4" + 2" steel spacers). 'Golden Desert Mercantile', later reformed as 'American Metal' was another manufacturer that offered 3", 4", and 6" plus kits 'back in the day', but they quickly fizzled out. SkyJacker also had a 3", and then a 5" on the drawing board (they even released part numbers & drawings), but never actually produced the 5". There were probably a couple others I'm leaving out, but those what I remember being available before the TJ came out, and EVERYONE started making XJ compatible stuff. We need an old delusional granpa one of these --> :smart: for posts like this. ;)

The grand daddy of all XJ/MJ lifts was the 3" Rancho, and although I never ran their LCA's, they were purported to be the same length as stock, and were square, with poly bushings. (+ painted Red, tho I'm pretty sure they were also marketed as part of a "Dick Cepek" kit, and painted black 8, or 10 years ago) The LCA's stock length was the reason I didn't get a set when I bought their 3" coils in the early 1990's (still running those same Rancho coils FWIW, 16+ years later, now in 'her' ZJ)

I've used the alternate holes in those mopar perches to set my axle forward, backward, and then drilled additional holes to allow even more adjustment, depending on what drivetrain/driveshaft & rear axle I was running at the time. When I had my 1st 4wd rear driveshaft made I was running a D35, the shaft came out a little short, so I ran the axle forward. Then I swapped in a D60 (with the Mopar perches), and had to run the axle rearward because of the 60's snout length. Now I'm running a different T-case & driveshaft, and (IIRC) am running the axle even further back. As far as how it looks in the wheelwells, when I was running flares, I stretched the ends of them back so it still looks normal with the stretch. If you do use alternate holes in the perches, just be sure to drill a new hole in the U-bolt plate for the back of the center pin bolt to come through it.

I had an 85 XJ with a factory sunroof, seems like they were more common in earlier XJ/MJ's than later ones. If you lost 'everything' (including the sunroof frame), I'd think about blocking the hole up, or swapping in a more modern sunroof replacement.

Biggest mistake America ever made was letting our manufacturing base dissolve. Imagine WWII without the USA's manufacturing machine. Now imagine if there was ever another big conventional war (how ever likely, or unlikely that would be). China = the new USA. I don't imagine that ending well. Thanks for your efforts Tom, hope those furnaces get fired up soon.

VATICAN HUMOR After getting all of Pope Benedict's luggage loaded into the limo, (and he doesn't travel light), the driver notices the Pope is still standing on the curb. 'Excuse me, Your Holiness,' says the driver, 'Would you please take your seat so we can leave?' 'Well, to tell you the truth,' says the Pope, 'they never let me drive at the Vatican when I was a cardinal, and I'd really like to drive today.' 'I'm sorry, Your Holiness, but I cannot let you do that. I'd lose my job! What if something should happen?' protests the driver, wishing he'd never gone to work that morning.. 'Who's going to tell?' says the Pope with a smile. Reluctantly, the driver gets in the back as the Pope climbs in behind the wheel. The driver quickly regrets his decision when, after exiting the airport, the Pontiff floors it, accelerating the limo to 205 kms.. (Remember, the Pope is German...) 'Please slow down, Your Holiness!' pleads the worried driver, but the Pope keeps the pedal to the metal until they hear sirens. 'Oh, dear God, I'm going to lose my license -- and my job!' moans the driver. The Pope pulls over and rolls down the window as the cop approaches, but the cop takes one look at him, goes back to his motorcycle, and gets on the radio. 'I need to talk to the Chief,' he says to the dispatcher. The Chief gets on the radio and the cop tells him that he's stopped a limo going 155 kph. 'So bust him,' says the Chief. 'I don't think we want to do that, he's really important,' said the cop. The Chief exclaimed,' All the more reason!' 'No, I mean really important,' said the cop with a bit of persistence. The Chief then asked, 'Who do you have there, the mayor?' Cop: 'Bigger.' Chief: ' A senator?' Cop: 'Bigger.' Chief: 'The Prime Minister?' Cop: 'Bigger.' 'Well,' said the Chief, 'who is it?' Cop: 'I think it's God!' The Chief is even more puzzled and curious, 'What makes you think it's God?' Cop: 'His chauffeur is the Pope!'

Just found some stress cracks like that (tho not as bad as Raoden83's! :eek: ) in the door-jam of my (98) 2dr XJ last week. The MJ's are fine tho. :cheers:

2 weeks ago, the rear brake line in my XJ popped. (rusted out). I replaced the rear rubber line, and the rusty line (used brake line I already had: a 'newish' 5' section + shorter section pieced in to reach the firewall). There was a quirky metric joint (male metric line into a female metric end, no coupling), by the firewall that looked like it could be a problem, but the job went fine. Except for the air in the line at the passengers side rear bleeder screw (no air at the drivers side). At the end of every brake pump, WOOOSHHHHHHhhhh air bubbles. OK, must be the funky metric joint, reflared it, replaced it with two std ends, and a coupling (union) in between. WOOOSHHHHHHhhhh (only on the PS) OK, screw it, not even sure why I left the joint in there, I'll swap a new brake line from the 'new' 5' section, right to the prop valve. WOOOSHHHHHHhhhh (only on the PS) Alright, this is getting old, my flare tool has seen better days, and they actually make a Craftsman one now that's decent, swap my old crappy Craftsman flare tool for a brandy new one (that makes better flares), and remake the flares I did. WOOOSHHHHHHhhhh (only on the PS) OK, sick of chasing my tail, since it's only on the passenger's side, maybe I damaged the tube over the axle when I swapped it into the new rubber hose/junction block. New section over rear axle swapped in. WOOOSHHHHHHhhhh (only on the PS) OK, maybe that 'newish' line I pulled out of my basement was crappy, new rear 5' section, and new 40" section from there to the prop valve since I had to take it apart anyway (also used brand new union) WOOOSHHHHHHhhhh (only on the PS) Well, since EVERY LINE from the prop to the rear wheel cylinder has been replaced TWICE now, that brandy new made in China rubber flex line must be the problem. I'll dig out an old one, and see if the china crap was somehow defective & letting in air. WOOOSHHHHHHhhhh (only on the PS) Cliff notes: two complete different brake lines from prop valve to wheel cylinder, and two different rear brake hoses all = WOOOSHHHHHHhhhh (only on the PS). I've swapped brake lines dozens of times in the past, and never had one kick my a$$ this bad. Even quicky fixes using crud filled brake lines off junkers, without going through this much aggravation. I'm ready to push it off a cliff.

Apologies in advance for the HUGE pic, but this auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-92-Je ... ccessories Lists an MJ carpet in your choice of the following colors for $114: Are none of those colors 'close enough' to the AMC Cordovan? For the price I was surprised to read:

Thread hasn't been updated in a while, but most of the long arm setups are here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=19871

All I ever use is Coastal. It's cheap, smells just as horrible as the other stuff, and it hasn't let me down, or caused any issues for me yet. I started using it when I was changing my diff fluid more often (lots of wheeling & water crossings). Even though it's been a few years since I've seen a trail, I've stuck to Coastal, and all is still well. Back on topic, I am really liking this truck. :yes: :cheers:

I like these. :yes: Looking forward to updates. :popcorn:

They went to Chrysler alternators with the introduction of the HO (1991). Renix's use GM alternators, I'm far from a GM alternator expert, but I seem to remember there were 'small case', and 'large case' GM alternators of the same vintage as our Renix Alt's. I believe ours are the smaller of the two. Long story short, take a good look at the size & mounting position of the ears on your alt, and go shopping around 1980's/early 1990 GM's in the JY.

I just moved my intake/filter further up towards the firewall: using some prebent exhaust tubing: If the water gets that high against my firewall, I'm gonna have more problems than my engine sucking air (water level would be about chest high inside the cab by then). For the distributor I used one of those 5.0L Mustang rubber distributor wrap around boots. There's a vent at the top of the stock 4.0L dist cap, so if you needed more than that, you could always seal the cap, and run a line to the breather.

I'm not a fan of rear tire carriers on pickups, but this style isn't bad, because it's reversible. http://www.truckcandy.com/TC/TireGate/TireGate.htm Looks like $$ tho, and not sure it can be adapted to an MJ. You should start a new thread for the question tho. :D