jpnjim

1) Voltmeters are not the best tool to read voltage. sounds stupid, I know, but with transient voltages,bad grounds, bad neutrals, etc etc, volt meters only complicate things by giving a very precise reading of a surface charge that's not even really there. That's why an electricians set of "Wiggys" is a volt meter with a solenoid inside it to actually draw a load as it tests. The load is important because it actually dissipates the surface charge (makes it go away). If you connect the '90v wire' (I'm guessing it's the neutral) to ground with the wiggys, and still get 90v, you have a more serious issue than connecting a voltmeter and reading a surface charge of 90v. 2) Electrical stuff can get confusing as the issue gets more complicated. Always go back to the basics: Find out what is your line in. Find out where/what your loads are. Popping a breaker is not the way to diagnose something. If doing something trips the breaker, STOP doing that. Most of the time a breaker will trip like it should, but SOMETIMES it will blow right up in your face. Yep, breakers blow up every day, might even blow up after tripping like it should 10 times in a row. Especially when it's a dead short tripping it. 3) Honestly Pete, the guys most likely to be killed by electricity are electricians, who do the work every day. If it's that dangerous for us, it's just as dangerous (or more) for you. 4) I bet a good electrician will scratch his head for about 10 minutes with this problem, then have it back together, nice & tidy, with good tight splices, and everything working like it should within the hour. (just saying :D ) Good luck Pete.

:mancrush: I'm just saying. ;) BTW, what was up with the Waggy nosed LWB XJ-thing?: Looks like a section of MJ bed pieced in behind the XJ's rear doors. :hmm: Definitely has that 'unibody dropped onto a frame' look to it. Any more pics, or description? Looked like a cool time.

I don't really get how this scam works, but there are people who post ad's on Craigslist, at super low prices, for items they never intend to sell. Maybe they're trying to show a low value on things for divorce settlements (crazy, I know, but nothing else fits the argument). I called about a Silver 4 door Dakota last year, ATLEAST 10 times. It was advertised as being "on the Ma/NH border", in Tewksbury Ma. Truck was listed for $3995, and the same guy had a dozen, or so other random vehicles, complete with VIN's that he would re-list every single day. I called, my GF called, every time there was another excuse: call at 4pm "I just left work, and can't show it" call in the morning "I'll be out of the office all day" call on Friday (and say anytime this weekend would be good), nope, "I'm away for the weekend" (but he'd re-list the car on Friday/Saturday & Sunday). I started to get pissed, then I realized it was defiantly a scam, and no one was going to end up with that truck. My cousin once tried to buy a house (that was MLS listed at a very reasonable price). after MONTHS of working with the guy and reaching a final price, the seller backed out. The seller was going through a divorce, and had to pay his wife 1/2 the home's value. He never intended to sell (actually ran his landscaping business out of the back yard, and never even looked for an alternate location for his business). The 'sale' was a sham, to show he did his due diligence to get the 'best price' he could, then settle up with the wife, so he could keep both halfs of the community property. Maybe the 'too good to be true' craigslist ad's are there for a different reason, but that's the only one that makes sense to me. :hmm:

I'd cut that off before I'd cut this off: http://maine.craigslist.org/cto/1833780599.html

One of your louvers looks crooked in this pic. ;) moar pics please. :yes:

Most cops *Hate* to operate outside of their comfort zone. They'll grab the tint meter at the beginning of their shift, and look for ricers with blacked out windows, or go after the guys with covered license plates, equipment issues, etc, but steer clear of stuff they don't know (IE: big asses military trucks :yes: ). I'd be more worried about seeing a Statey who'se used to dealing with big rigs, he knows the rules for them, and may try to bring you (assuming non-commercial use for your truck) into compliance with their rules. I'd also worry about the out of state temp plates, I don't know all the rules for those, but the way the insurance/registration laws are written in Mass, I'm sure there's something they could complain about. Good luck man, I haven't been to any Jeep or car shows this year yet, but if you end up bringing that thing to one, let me know, I'd really like to see it. :yes: :yes: :yes:

Was it that Audi drivers were all :nuts: back then, or were the brake & accelerator too close together, or ? I guess all the sudden vehicle acceleration people are buying Toyota's now. :doh: Good Luck with it, still way better than buying a generic Honda-Toyota.

:bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: and a few more :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: for having the brass balls to own THAT in an apartment complex, with one parking spot. :banana: :banana:

Just chop down a FF D60, and run SF 35spline shafts. The big problem with both the 60-2's listed above (J4000 & Mopar automotive) is the wheel bearings. J4000 bearings are unobtanium, and $100+ smackers a piece. Mopar automotive bearings are decent tapered rollers, and easy to find, but they require preload, and a center-button between the ends of the two axle shafts to preload the shafts against. Running an aftermarket differential (posi, locker, spool, etc) can complicate fitting the center-button. The easy way out is to run 'Green' bearings, they're sealed ball bearings that don't require preload, but greatly reduce the load carrying ability of the axle (not a good thing with a D60 in a pickup truck). If you start with a FF 60, chop to fit, and bang on some big 9" Ford housing ends you'll get the width you want, a stronger center section, thicker tubes, cheap to find, strong wheel bearings, and a good selection of Ford brakes to boot. You do have to worry about properly aligning the ends, and buying shafts. I think I got my Moser shafts for ~$300. That's not much more than you'll pay for a set of bearings & seals for the J4000 axle.

1) aren't those the Audi's they couldn't give away 10 years ago, after the 'sudden vehicle acceleration' debacle? 2) you're gonna miss your MJ. Good luck. :cheers:

You can install an HO, and swap all the Renix sensors onto it (so you can keep your renix wiring & computer), or you can install the HO + the wiring harness + computer. I didn't do the complete (harness + ecu swap), but I imagine that's mostly a plug & play + adapting some of the XJ wiring to work with the MJ (assuming you start with an XJ harness vs an MJ one). I put an HO in, using the renix harness & sensors. toughest part of that was adapting the renix TPS to the HO throttle body (not really that hard). if you have an auto, you have to do it for the trans TPS too. When using a Renix control system on an HO, In addition to the sensors & TPS, you need to swap: the flywheel (different cutout locations renix vs HO) alternator (HO's alternator is regulated by the CPU) Distributor (Tho I did not try the HO's to see if it would work) figure out a way to adapt the Renix fuel lines to the HO's fuel rail (not too tough either) You'll also need to get an HO throttle pedal assembly to work with the engine. There's probably more stuff that I forgot, but search around here, I thought there was a sticky here that covered this too. :hmm: My '88 MJ build' link in sig has some of the details too.

Pretty feasible for me. ;) you can tell it's a B-body Mopar 60 because of it's narrow width (59.5"), cast/finned 11"x2.5" drums, and 5 on 4.5" wheel patturn. Oh, and that it's only a couple inches off the ground with 32's. :rotfl2: The Mopar pinion snubber bolt pattern is visible in this pic. It's probably worth more than my whole Jeep, but it was only $495 out of a race car when I bought it in the 1990's (with 4.56's/Powerlock & 23sp 1.5" shafts) I swapped Moser 35spline shafts in ~2000, and a Detroit a year after that.

All the J20's and any of the 3/4 ton trucks I've ever seen were 8 lug. FC excepted. I have several J20 axle assemblies as well as a couple J20's if anybody really wants one. I've got one of the 5 x 5.5 semi float ones in my garage ;) It actually says 60-2 on the casting as well. They are not easy to come by. We found it for $100 with a WMS/WMS measurement of 65.5". If you want I can take a picture of it tomorrow for you. DD on pirate runs one as well: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showpost ... stcount=13 Jeep standardized the FS truck line in 1974, & went to open knuckle ft 44's + FF 30 spline 60's on their 3/4 ton's like everyone else. They also adopted the J10/J20 designations that same year (1974). So technically speaking, J20's were all 8 lug, with 30 spline FF60. The 3/4 ton 70-73 FSJ's with 5 lug 35spline 60's were J4000's. I daily drove one for most of the 1990's, and kept the axle when I cut it up. What I know about them: Thinner casting/tubes than typical D60's Wheel bearings are like $100+ each now Since the pumpkin is offset, you could chop the long side down to take a short shaft, and have something really close to 60" wide when you're done. Axle end pattern is a circular 6 hole style, same as 6 hole D44 front spindles (weird, I know). Almost all of them were factory geared at either 4.10, or 4.88's. 12" drums look huge, but fit inside every 15" wheel I ever tried. (& in response to Cracker's link): The only 35sp SF Ford 60's I ever heard of were C-clip axles, but I'm not sure if they made a C-clip D60 Detroit back then (or even now :hmm: ).

Couple more pics, before I spaced the seats out, to fit the 'kids seat': shows how much father back the DS seat is compared to the PS: (passengers side seat is in the stock XJ location) different angle (drivers seat is all the way back in pic): and the kid seat:

I slid a 'kids seat' between my 01' buckets: had to make a bracket to raise the center seat, so I made it a locking storage box: When I was trying to find the best height: & here's a pic of the bracket you need for the later style seats: (marked 'Take' in pic)

97+ seats are easy, but you need to grab the bracket that's welded to the XJ's floor. MJ's have a floor reinforcing bracket on top of their floors that will interfere with the XJ-bracket, but most MJ's already have it cut out when doing floors (or it's rotted apart by now). If you still have the MJ reinforcing bracket, you'll have to cut a chunk out of it to fit the XJ bracket. I slid my XJ bracket rearward to open up a little more leg room (97+ XJ's have less leg room than 84-94's <--- not sure where 95/96's fit into this). That takes care of the front mounts, for the rear mounts I chopped the mounting feet off, shortened the bracket they were on, and welded them back together. You have to drill new holes in the floor for the rear mounts, and probably should back the bolt up with a washer underneath. I removed the 97+ seat belt buckles from my seats (later XJ's mount the belts to the seat, instead of the floor), trying to incorporate the later belts to the MJ seemed like a PITA. For power, grab the XJ's harness, There are ports you can connect to on the fuse box, but I used non-power XJ seats in mine. I also modified my passengers side (2001 4 door) seat to fold forward. If/when I ever get around to doing the other side, I'll take some pics, but I did not include any kind of latch (see freely folds forward, and doesn't latch).

WTF IS that? Some sort of horrible demented concept vehicle? It looks like an XK, an M715, a Hummer, and some modern pickup (early 00s Ford Explorer SUT?) had a terrible accident. The pic says 'chopartist' on it, so I guess it's a chop. Looks kind of like a foreign J-truck attempt gone horribly wrong.

MY DREAM TRUCK! I WILL have one someday. Prices are still pretty cheap, relatively speaking of course. 15 years ago there was a half dozen of these in the Want-Ad, and even one at my corner gas station for sale, going rate, in running condition was ~$500. I looked at a few, then other things came up before I found the *right* one. :doh: see, that's not how you're supposed to do it. You're supposed to buy the first one you see, and then start looking for better ones. :yes: I should have done that. I was daily driving a 73 J4000 back then (granny 4spd, 4.10's & 4 wheel drums), about the only thing worse for a daily driver would've been an M-715 (granny 4spd 5.89's & 4 wheel drums), so I was trying to find one I could actually drive. When they jumped to $1500-2000+ I said "I'm not gonna pay that much" :doh: Plus by then I had started 'collecting' XJ's & MJ's. :fool:

Yep, because AMC created AM General. Quick & sloppy history: Studebaker made military trucks. Studebaker went belly up. Studebaker gave Kaiser it's military truck plant & contracts for a song. Kaiser made this a division of itself called "Defense and Government Products Division" (creative, I know ;) ). AMC bought Jeep AMC separated 'DGPD' even further, by creating the "AM General Corporation" Renault bought a majority share of AMC Renault was partially owned by the French Government then (France had taken ownership, and nationalized Renault after WWII) A foreign country (France) could not own a corporation with government contracts (atleast back then, who knows now) AMC sold off AM General to make the feds happy. AM General is still making military trucks. Cliff notes: M-715's were made ~1967-69, AM General did not exist as a corporation till after AMC bought Jeep in 1970

Also, the early (drivers side) vent window post is in the way if you swap on late model mirrors. The mirrors still work, but you're looking at the vent post cutting right through the center of the (bigger) later mirrors.

X2, some places will keep a dirty filter around for the testing machine, dirty filter = you fail. Try a second place, first place sounds sketchy to me ($350 for a 4.0L tuneup :nuts: )

Damn: http://www.angelfire.com/nb2/jeeppickup ... M715s.html

BTW, and none of these 'old style' M715's posted were AMC's, or even AM General's. They were Jeeps, but Kaiser still owned Jeep back then. (Before AMC, Jeep military trucks were made by Kaiser's "Defense and Government Products Division") There were later "AM715/AM720's" that no one seems to talk about much, that were made by AMC/AMGeneral. Not as sexy looking but still cool. :thumbsup: http://www.angelfire.com/nb2/jeeppickups/amgeneral.html Then there were the Kia versions: http://www.angelfire.com/nb2/jeeppickups/Kia.html (look familiar?) I don't know who put up that anglefire site, but it's a great reference.

MY DREAM TRUCK! I WILL have one someday. Prices are still pretty cheap, relatively speaking of course. 15 years ago there was a half dozen of these in the Want-Ad, and even one at my corner gas station for sale, going rate, in running condition was ~$500. I looked at a few, then other things came up before I found the *right* one. :doh:

I meant to post pics after I installed my (U-haul #75021) hitch (ordered same day jimoshel ordered his). Before (with mangled bumper): and after (bumper cleaned up/straightened somewhat, holes welded shut, but still far from clean & straight): As far as the universal hitch posted earlier, it hung down more than the MJ specific hitch, there are pics on here somewhere.