Megadan

Well, ironically I have everything I need to do this little mod already in the truck after having to hotwire my wiper fluid pump last week. I might do this in my work parking lot when I get off later tonight lol.

My interest is peaked, but I would love to hear someone who has put some miles on them. I have a mild dislike of most monroe shocks as they seem to wear out quickly. How are these holding up?

Inquiring mind needs to know if you noticed any notable increase in airflow after doing said ground mod? I just replaced my blower motor, and it works fine, but if I could eek a bit more airflow out of it then I am all for it.

I have standard General Springs repalcements. Ride great, good quality and the price is decent. I'm happy with them. Link: http://www.generalspringkc.com/product_p/97-555.htm

Not including any porting, the cost of machine work alone for a stroker will probably hit the $500-800 range depending on what all needs done.

Building a 275hp stroker is going to cost more than $3000. Almost every build log of a stroker 4.0 I have seen ends up in the 4k+ range by the time all parts and machine work is considered. Now, if you want to do a budget stroker with minimal to no head work and a mild cam you could be looking at a cool 230ish hp stroker, but realistic costs will still put that in the 2000-2500 range (never underestimate the added up costs of little stuff). You will still have tons of torque.

I like that 2 piece adapter and the ability to let you clock the motor. The price is actually higher than the COTY adapter, and aside from the starter, includes less. I guess it really depends on what parts and options you can do without.

Your link just takes you to the main forum thread. What's the name of the post?

The COTY Adapter set is the one I am talking about. If you have any fab skills to do motor mounts etc, then the only thing you really would need from them is the adapter setup, and it comes pretty complete for the price. Otherwise, as John mentioned, just do some searching for TDI swaps, there's quite a bit out there. The hardest part is the wiring really.

I was going to suggest this very same carb setup. the 32/36 DGEV is a good carb replacement for mid sized (2.3-2.6ish) 4 pots in truck applications. We just used one on a buddies old Nissan Pickup with a 2.4 because the factory carb (an overly complicated electro-smog thing that costs $1100 rebuilt) needed replacing. His truck runs great now and gets pretty decent mileage too. Honestly, I've considered reverting my 4.0L to a carb more than once. I have a wideband sensor and gauge sitting around and a bung in the exhaust for one, so I could really get that thing fine tuned.

How much power do you want? How complicated or expensive do you want to swap to be? The 4bt cummins, while viable, is a very large and heavy engine(800lbs) that requires at least 5-6" of lift to be a truly viable option as it's an incredibly tall motor. stock they make OK power and torque, and being entirely mechanical means they are easy to install. The real issue comes down to the driveline (after all the previous is taken care of) as the stock AX-15 will be ok behind a stock 4bt and even a mild one, but at the 200hp level they start putting out well over 500lb-ft. The Mercedes Diesels are nice. not too heavy and run nice. They have the downsides of being not that fuel efficient, especially for a diesel, and can get rather expensive rather quickly. Depending on where you live they may not be the easiest to find either. My personal favorite, and eventual planned swap is something much smaller than either, a 1999-2003 VW 1.9TDI/ Before you laugh consider it weighs 180lbs less than the jeep 4.0L. And it is not a space hog like the other two. While it is electronic (complicated) there are some resources out there that really explain the wiring for swaps. It's stock power output is not overwhelming (90hp and 155lb-ft) they are easy to hop up and can push about 150hp on a stock turbo, and near 200hp with a small upgrade while making at or over 300lb-ft. without reliability being a concern. Will it be fast? No, but with upgrades it will at least be as peppy as a stock 4.0 and even a mild stroker. The real advantage is lightniss and fuel econ. Most swapped pickups (Toyotas) average 30-38mpg. There is a company that sells a complete adapter setup with flywheel and other parts for a decent price too. The best part, IMHO, is that it would work perfectly with the gearing already used with the 4.0L because they operate across a 5000rpm rev range. In any case, if you are after huge torque to impress your buddies, obviously the little 1.9 TDi isn't for you, but considering Jeep put a 2.1L 4cyl diesel in these trucks once, it's not too far off the mark.

You don't even need to look at the eyes to know it's a venemous snake. That head shape is 100% viperidae

Looks like a copperhead to me.

I already checked the ball joints when I did some brake work and rotated the tires. That's a habit I got into years ago.

The track bar is tight from what I can tell. I'm not a small man, and I pulled and pushed on that thing with all of my weight behind it and I didn't get a jiggle or a sound. Maybe it's just a tiny bit loose?

I'm having a dickens of a time trying to figure this one out. Only when stationary or moving very slowly and turning the wheel beyond about a half a turn I get a pronounced clunk from the front end of my truck. I've looked at, pulled on, shook, and banged on every steering linkage and the track bar under the truck, both under load and unloaded and cannot reproduce it or find any loose rod ends :hmm: . I'm at a loss at this point and I am looking for suggestions of things to check.

If I were going to go 8+" of lift, I would want 1 ton axles simply for the stability you would get from the width.

Have a shop press? Manual transmissions are pretty straight forward to rebuild, but you often need a press to remove and install bearings and certain other parts.

Technically yes, but as ^he^ said, it depends on the trucks. Lots of little details that can affect the answers, or details to consider to make the swap happen.

The AX15 mount location IS further back than the BA10. I did the swap a couple of years ago and I had to track down a crossmember for the trans, and ithe crossmember moves back to the rear holes that are already present in the frame. As far as your driveshaft not fitting, that's strange to me as I reused both front and rear shafts on mine with no problem.

I finally got around to installing mine after painting it. Bolted right up without a hitch...or with one in this case :yes: Definitely worth my money, and if I had another comanche, I would order a second one. :thumbsup:

If you drop the coin on a C-Clip eliminator kit for the 8.8 like the Yukon one, you end up with an axle just a bit wider than the stock one, and nice upgraded axle shafts to boot. Worth $500+? judge for yourself.

because you can drop a 300 buck locker into an open carrier. you can't do that with a LS carrier. :thumbsup: A new ford 8.8 Open Carrier can be had for a song. Not really a big deal

You've gotta get the angle of the dangle just right for the input shaft to slide into the pilot bushing/bearing. I actually had a harder time getting the dowels for the bellhousing to line up correctly. Are you sure that isn't your problem?

Well, if it's leaking from the clutch master cylinder, then the best fix would be to replace that clutch master cylinder.