Megadan

The washers do work, but I had to grind a couple down in order to get them installed with the bolts. Mainly the to bottom center bolts, which I could just barely not get installed thanks to the primary tube being in the way. Honestly, I think every set of headers has it's own problems with Pacesetter. Wide degree of manufacturing variances. BTW, That' one sexy truck!

I have a pacesetter header, no cat, and a enormous 30" body magnaflow muffler with 2.5" in/out and a turndown at this point. I plan on getting a tailpipe made, or store bought here in the future. I did the big body muffler because I had no cat (already removed by P.O.)and I wanted to keep the noise down. What kind of sound you want, if you want any, will really determine what you go with. I love my magnaflow because when I get on it, it makes noise, but when I am just cruising you don't hear it and it doesn't drone. Very mellow.

I finally got around to doing my small lift on my truck, ended up with 2.5" front via factory measure between axle and frame. Now, I knew I would need longer links, and I do have a set of late model XJ links on hand, which are 1" longer than my factory links, but obviously not long enough to set the bar at the correct position to keep the ends level. That, and it's closer to the coils than I would like. Are there any other off the shelf links that are a bit longer I could use, or am I pretty much destined to use swaybar drop brackets to get everything square? I don't really like the idea of dropping the bar down if I don't have to, so alternatives are welcomed. Also, while I would love a set of disconnects, they aren't in the budget (or needed) at this point. I don't do any serious wheeling outside of some rarely used dirt paths on occasion.

Without the spacer the brake pedal would sit right about where it did with the old booster. With mine spaced out, the pedal sits a bit lower (closer to the firewall).

Gearing and trans (for BA10) and/or clutch holding capacity would be my 2 guesses, I can't imagine the clutch really being an issue, but asking it to hold the force of more than double the vehicle weight while accelerating would put quite a strain on it.

I have the ceramic coated header on my Renix. The only two issues I had with mine were, 1. As stated above, the supplied washers/spacers for the intake and exhaust manifold bolts had to be ground down some for proper fitment. Nothing extreme, just added time to the install. 2. The Y-pipe/crossover exhaust section (part that goes under the trans) had to be tweaked and clearanced some on mine where it goes past the bellhousing for the transmission. It was just barely touching the bellhousing at the bottom bolt on the drivers side. Not really a big deal (small shallow dent made via hammer) but it did crack the coating on that pipe in the process. Otherise, everything is fine. I did not use the supplied gasket, but instead opted for a higher quality unit from the parts store that I had on hand since I was replacing the cylinder head. Lots of other people also recommend not using the supplied gasket, including the post above mine, for the same reason of burning through. Just do yourself 1 favor and use some tailpipe/exhaust junction sealant. I had a problem with my Y pipe junctions leaking a bit even with the clamps tightened down, so I used a liberal amount of it on those 2 slip joints and it hasn't leaked since. FWIW, if you want to spend the money, go get some higher quality exhaust clamps for the Y-pipe junction. The ones supplied are pretty cheap (crap).

The WJ Booster doesn't come with a spacer from the factory. I had to use washers to space it mainly because the booster doesn't sit flush with the firewall on my 88 because the brake bracket covers part of the hole and/or the hole for the booster center section isn't quite big enough. In any case, good haul for 90 bucks!

Factory shock location was dependent on being a long bed or short bed. My long bed has the shocks on the front side of the axle from the factory

Oh sweet, I didn't know about those. Thanks! As per the filter adapter, I did consider it, and partly because it would make routing the hoses a little bit easier.

Beautiful long bed.

I'm diggin the way the truck is starting to look. I Really like that tool box too..reminds me that I still need to get one.

How is the longevity of the Walker stuff. I have heard of people in the rust belt say they only tend to last 2-3 years before they rust away. I considered using the tailpipe section on my truck, but I am kind of iffy on it rusting away.

I always found them to do a great job, and exactly what they were supposed to do for a sporty car. Admittedly, I never had your complaint/issue with how the behaved, so who knows. I always loved them.

Quality hubcentric wheel spacers are perfectly reliable. I ran a set on a car that I autocrossed for 3 seasons on very sticky autocross tires and never had a failure.

That's the one I was looking at when I wanted to relocate the filter. The biggest challenge is figuring out where to fit the filter.

If you want to relocate the filter you will probably want to go with a different plate/adapter than the one I used. I May relocate at a different time, but the one I have is just a sandwich plate that goes between the housing and the filter.

The thermostat is being installed to regulate flow to the coil cooler so that the oil can actually warm up in colder temps. Once the oil reaches 180 degrees the thermostat opens and lets oil circulate to the oil cooler. I would like to have an oil temp gauge installed, but that will be for a later date for budget reasons, but I do want one because I would like to keep track of things. Most likely this one http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-3347-Sport-Comp-Temperature/dp/B00062YWWE/ref=sr_1_15?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1457718401&sr=1-15 Just gotta find a place for it.

Your inquiry as to what that canister with the hoses coming out of the top... That is the charcoal canister for the EVAP system.

The Honda Passport is a Rodeo with a Honda badge. In any case, you won't find 3.55 gears under a Rodeo/Passport with the 44. Almost all of them were 4.10 or 4.30 gears. I have a Rodeo Dana 44 with 4.30's and limited slip that I shortened to put under my Isuzu Impulse.

Good progress! It's great to get to actually drive something after having it down for a while. You should consider doing a little write up for that sending unit/hanger that you did for other guys that may run into the same problem.

I had thought about that, but if I were going to go that route I would rather find a way to mount a food grade water tank in that same location. At the very least I would go have the tank cleaned and sealed. The extra fuel could also be carried in the bed of my truck. My biggest challenge right now is having the space to make said trailer. Too many vehicles in too small of a driveway lol

I would use a multimeter and test the coil. For the fuel pump, have you tried to bypass the ballast resistor to see if that gets it to come on?

The Gas-A-Just shock valving is a bit harsh for some like you mentioned. I don't mind it personally. The GR-2's are a lot less harsh and are more OE ride quality. I currently have GR-2s on the front my Comanche and I love them. Not harsh at all. The Gas-A-Justs are intended for improved handling so they have much more aggressive shock valving with a monotube design intended for better on-road handling. Monroe shocks have always been crap in my experience. Outside of my crown vic experience, I've also had brand new Monroes with valve failures right out of the box. Currently I have Monroe load helpers on the back of my truck to give them a try, so far so good, but I am waiting for them to crap out. I kept the GR2 shocks I took off and stored them away just in case.

I don't subscribe to many threads, but this one has my interest. I like it so far, keep up the work! :thumbsup:

The best luck with shocks I have ever had that were non-factory have always been KYB. My OE Shocks (which were built by Mornoe) went bad on my Crown Vic after just 20,000 miles, so I Upgraded to KYB GAs-A-Just P71 shocks, and they lasted the next 6 years and 50,000 miles before I sold it, and they still rode just as good as the day I installed them.